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Comments
[deleted] OP t1_iuf079i wrote
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Gorgeous_Whore t1_iuf6n6v wrote
Yw. As an experienced DIY’er number one rule for electricity is don’t mess with it if you’re not 100%
brock_lee t1_iueh746 wrote
GFCI circuits are not usually connected to lighting circuits. This is why you usually find that bathroom and kitchen outlets, but not lights, are on the same circuit. This is not universal. I would suspect either there really is a breaker tripped, the breaker is defective, or perhaps there is a loose connection somewhere in the lighting circuit. I literally just had this happen. My living room ceiling fan just stopped working after years and years. The circuit it's on is fine. I traced it to a junction box in the attic, that runs to the fan, where the power wires had come undone from the wire nut. Go figure.
[deleted] OP t1_iuf06ek wrote
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SirMaxPowers t1_iugxzq8 wrote
There's lots of different levels of DYI. If you're a novice that may have replaced a light switch before, I'd be tempted to buy a new GFCI and replace it. If it doesn't work you can return it, if from a big box store and call a professional. Everyone's different. Just find your confort level, and put safety first. Anyone doing even minimal electric work would benefit from a $20 electric tester to confirm the circuit is dead. Good luck
[deleted] OP t1_iuhajli wrote
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cbryancu t1_iuei2y4 wrote
Electrician best recommendation
Check switches that control lights. Check GFCI for any loose wires, but be careful if you find a wire not connected in GFCI box...never know what someone else did. Electrician can fix and make sure not a hazzard
[deleted] OP t1_iuf04qc wrote
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domdogg123 t1_iuey1p8 wrote
Can you expand on the 'replacing the vanity' part?
What tool did you use to cut a hole in the ceiling? Any chance you shook a wire loose or cut through one?
[deleted] OP t1_iuf02e0 wrote
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domdogg123 t1_iuf2434 wrote
I would use a multimeter to see what kind of voltage you have at the GFCI & at the lights that don't work. It's possible a short is diverting enough power that there isn't enough voltage left on the circuit to turn the lights on.
This sounds serious enough for professional help if you can't get it tracked down in short order.
[deleted] OP t1_iuf5ck3 wrote
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Acrobatic-Secret374 t1_iuj64cv wrote
It seems, (from the comments I have read,) that you already have a working knowledge of the likeliest of problems.
Calling an electrician is certainly the best option.
To continue DIY, you have to make sure you get the proper test equipment and gain at least a basic familiarity of what the readouts say.
Based on your description of the problem, the most frequently suggested problem of a loose connection is very likely the issue.
When a connection weakens, the volts have to increase to cover for that loss. If the amps don't break a breaker/fuse and the amps don't go over the total load and it never faults to gound, you can have issues where lights dim and circuits act funny but not in a way you would expect a failure as a homeowner (grew up with an electrical engineer as a father in a house he owned)
You very likely have a weak connection in a part of the circuit that is rarely serviced. Loose nut, or something similar.
To solve it without test equipment... Shut off all power to the house and check everything. Tighten everything down a smidge and turn it on again to see if it changes.
I would bet several nuts aren't as tight as others and are causing the issue.
[deleted] OP t1_iujyhse wrote
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inhospitableUterus t1_iuf1ds1 wrote
Possible water got into a junction box in the ceiling below and is causing a minor short? When you have a bad connection, for whatever reason, it’s common devices “downstream” from the fault to lose all power.
[deleted] OP t1_iuf54gv wrote
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fchilly t1_iuhf6ul wrote
I've seen weird instances where more than one GFCI was on a circuit.
[deleted] OP t1_iuhikkb wrote
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freedoneit t1_iuew99k wrote
Yes , you may have a failed neutral. Check from the hot to the ground with a tester , not a “tick” tester. If you have 120 across hot and ground you’ve lost your neutral. This can occur anywhere in circuit between the receptacle you were using and the electrical panel. The stab-in connections which are commonly used can have a high failure rate , even though it’s a “UL”/code approved connection .
[deleted] OP t1_iuflcu8 wrote
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Gorgeous_Whore t1_iueg4ve wrote
Call an electrician.