OP could shut off the main breaker at the box I'd think? (I only have metal tapes, but I use them more for running cat 5 without conduit).

No only that, it's the cameraman's job to confirm he's rolling. Some setups, everyone looks to you and you say "rolling" or why you're not ("everyone fucking settle in please!!!", people gabbing and making noise). Some setups the interviewer or producer turns to camera and asks if we're rolling. In my experience, generally camera confirms that sound is rolling if there's a separate recorder.

Don't know who you work for - when I'm shooting interviews, everyone looks to me to say "rolling". I say it once the room has settled down and the red light is blinking in my viewfinder. Nobody stops halfway through to confirm I'm actually doing my job.

Read this book as a kid, a collection of Howard Fast short stories. I remember really liking it.

Check that your windows aren't the main issue (sunrooms have lots of 'em) - infiltration will trump insulation by a freaking mile. A tiny gap letting cold air in will mitigate all the insulating work pretty quickly. And if the windows are low-E, they may be radiating cold in (technically leaching heat out), so storm windows/etc. may be a more useful option. If you're sure the windows are tight and don't feel like touching a freezer wall when it's cold out, I imagine you'll get the latest scoop on insulation as the comments pile up! And consider the floor as well, it may be a big cold-sink depending on its construction.

DISCLAIMER - I'm no expert. But all of the research I've done has pointed to completely encapsulating the crawl space, and only insulting the perimeter. So perimeter beam covered in plastic (they make 2-sided epoxy tape and plastic anchors for this, you drill holes as you go with a hammer drill and small bit, every 18" or so and tap in the fasteners, the epoxy tape is 2-sides and goes along the top of the perimeter beam). Piers get the same treatment, like a foot above the dirt. The perimeter plastic folds out onto the ground/floor a bit, and you roll out a heavier plastic and tape the whole mess closed. it's a white plastic with a grid of fibers molded in to make it very tough. Then insulate the perimeter with foam boards. Biggest issue is joist bays, you can cut and sort of friction-fit pieces in those, even use some spray foam to lock them in - just don't do anything that prevents a termite inspection or hides termite tunnels. And then totally seal up the vents. The idea is you make the whole space dry and sealed. You may want to insulate the floors a foot or so out from the perimeter as well. A lot of this info came from the EPA's web site.

Extra-credit is put some exhaust fans in some of the vent openings, there are fans made to fit the various sizes. they have sensors and only turn on when temps get very low or humidity gets high. Because older homes' floors aren't sealed really well, the fans suck some conditioned air "down" into the crawl space and out the vents, so when it's very cold, the crawl space gets warmed up a bit, and thus your floors are warmer; when it's warm and humid, some of your dry AC'd air is passed through the crawl space and out the vents, keeping it extra dry.

I do a lot of marketing work for a mold remediation company, and they consider encapsulation + fans kinda the gold standard. About half of my crawl space has maybe 10" clearance below the floor joists, so it was a BITCH to seal it up, but it's held up for a decade - I still need to do the fans sometime.

I was pretty amazed that someone posted an 8 hour loop of this Twin Peaks speech as a "sleep aid". I imagine by hour three, your psyche would be pretty shot.

Who on earth says there's a "right way" to read a book? Just read and get lost in it.

And if books keep stumping you and losing you, start with the first novel I ever read, at 12 years old, that made me go "fuckin' A, books are awesome": Tom Sawyer (not the Rush song, the book by Mark Twain). It really holds up into adulthood.

Well, books are different than appliances, and publishers can suck at marketing as bad as any other industry! But usually, a book's title and cover will give you some clue as to the mood, and if it's a new author and Stephen King says "A creepy masterpiece of bloody horror from a stunning new voice in fiction", you'll generally get a sense of genre anyway. If I spotted a book and the only blurb was Cormac McCarthy calling it "fantastic", that may be all I'd need though.

I do wonder about hardcover releases with very little info; publications haven't reviewed it yet, but if a publisher feels a book may do well, as I understand it they reach out to other authors they publish to read & provide a quote. Though usually a hardcover has a paragraph outlining the book on the inner dust flap; I don't see many paperbacks without a quick description of the story on the back though.

If it's a hardcover, there's usually a synopsis on the dust jacket's left flap, author info on the right. Often when it's a paperback, there's a short synopsis and review quotes.

But quotes are powerful marketing tools, if it's an author we like and trust. And in general in marketing, a testimonial is more powerful than a claim. Jean Louise-Gasse summed it up in Apple's early glory days, when they hired him as marketing chief. He was asked how he'd advertise Apple and answered "Not advertising, we'll use P.R." He was asked what the difference was:

"Advertising is if I tell a woman I'm good in bed. P.R. is if I sleep with a woman, and she tells ten of her friends I'm good in bed".

How I'd approach this, if the screw holes are really torn up - I really can't think of a "faster than 24 hrs. repair" though. I think trying to fill those stripped out screw holes wouldn't work well, unless you drilled them out with like a 1/2" bit, then glue dowels in and drill new screw holes into them - that might be an easier option, but you'd need to be very accurate with keeping the drill plumb, and you'd want to make a screw template from paper. But I'd try it simple at least, drill them out fairly wider and stuff them full of glue and matchstick-like pieces of wood and dry overnight. That makes a pretty solid screwing surface.

Then get longer hinge screws so they may have more structural wood to bite into. Hinge screws are often like 1/2" or 3/4" long, go longer and hopefully there's more structural "edge" wood under there.

If that didn't hold, I'd get serious - would require a circular saw, table saw, and a drill and clamps:

The "core" is hollow, but there's lumber or engineered-lumber-like-product around the edges. I'd make a heavy paper template of how the hinge mortise works and the screw holes and put it aside. Clamp the door upright to a bench or support, so the hinged edge is facing up. More clamps and scrap lumber to make a guide for a circular saw. The idea being to get the blade just under the main surfaces of the door, and cut down into the door-side about 2-3". Cut from the top of the door to a bit past the hinge mortise. So viewed from the front or back, the door looks the same, but you're chopping a chunk out from the hinge side.

Keep making cuts along the hinge-edge, going closer and closer to the center, but leaving the exterior surfaces intact - the inside cuts don't need to be super precise. Chisel it all out, including the curves where the blade edge stopped.

Using a table saw, I'd mill a block of lumber to fit into that hole you just made, and mill the proper hinge mortise into it - pretty easy on a table saw. Install the block into the slot with lots of glue and clamp it overnight. Wood filler, sanding and paint. It should all only be visible from the hinge-edge, so doesn't need to be perfect visually.

But he did ride a Saturn V, not just a 1B (Apollo 7 was a 1B, earth orbit test but no LEM, so no giant rocket needed). And an Atlas to boot.

Why does Helen Keller masturbate with two hands?

She uses one to moan.

How did Helen Keller burn her fingers?

Trying to read the waffle iron.

Haha, 1930's house with failing steel supply pipes and un-grounded outlets. Man, I've gotten good with the drywall patching! For small holes, like 1" - 2", I keep a roll of fiberglass mesh tape around - wad it up with some drywall mud and cram it in the hole; when it gets a bit stiff it makes a good backing to fill the hole up, a lot faster than tiny patches or trying to build up a glob on a ceiling (where gravity likes to F with ya!)

Hey, I've had some "luck" - not like a trust find (when my mother passed I inherited like $1800, woo hoo!!!!). But my shitshow childhood did instill in me some kind of love of creating things; and I worked like a freakin' dog to find a way to make a living with it. Hell, if you have four limbs and two eyes and are ambulatory, a blind guy in a wheelchair is gonna think you're one lucky bastard, right?

>basically you use a scrap bit of wood on the back side to to bridge the gap then screw the patch into it.

Extra credit: chamfer off the edges of the hole with a box knife. When you attach the wooden backing, do a few wraps of painters tape around the ends that will be outside of the hole (I guess you'd say the "overlap" but it's an "underlap" or a "behind-lap", right?) Now the backer is inset a couple mm. When you screw the drywall patch to it, it'll be recessed a tiny bit, much easier to mud over it with no "hump". I don't use tape for small holes, like outlet-box sized, and never get cracks this way.

Never heard of this guy, the comments are pretty funny!

But I agree with the dude. Discipline can be hard if you're not crazy about the tasks ahead.

A big key to being disciplined is to remind yourself that much of the work that requires discipline is work that will pay off, make you level-up, get you closer to your goals or dreams.

A big thing I've learned is to "be nice to your future self". Don't wanna iron a shirt vs. watching netflix, then you get up the next morning for a meeting or whatever and you now have to iron the damn shirt, and ten other things? And you're picturing yourself last night and thinking "you lazy bastard!!!" Do things now that will make your future self like your now-self, do things that are hard but you'll look back and be glad/proud you did them. It's a big part of growing a positive self-image and a belief you can achieve things. Identify behaviors that reinforce a bad self-image or even cause self-loathing, and try to chip away at them.