General Feedback/Getting Started Questions and Answers [Weekly Thread]

Submitted by AutoModerator t3_122mwqb in DIY

General Feedback/Getting Started Q&A Thread

This thread is for questions that are typically not permitted elsewhere on /r/DIY. Topics can include where you can purchase a product, what a product is called, how to get started on a project, a project recommendation, questions about the design or aesthetics of your project or miscellaneous questions in between.

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25

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26_Charlie t1_jdtidig wrote

I could use some help with an idea I have.

I hate going to the basement at night because the light switch is at the bottom of the stairs.

I had an idea to swap the light switch for a smart switch and figured there'd be smart switch kits that offer a remote buttons you can stick on the wall so you don't have to have an electrician come wire three-way switchs.

I did find something like that, but they only come with 1 remote and they're surprisingly expensive. I'd like to have two remotes but can't even figure out if you can buy additional remotes.

Alternatively I've heard of Zigbee "scene" buttons that maybe I could use as a remote to toggle a regular smart switch, but I've never used Zigbee so I'm not entirely sure if that's something a scene button can do.

If you want to know why I don't just hire an electrician - I rent this house so while my landlord lets me modify things I don't want to make any changes I can't reverse if he asks me to.

2

Sharky-PI t1_jdxzgmi wrote

if you're in range and have the right socket, you could buy one of these and just leave the switch on all the time. After years of being annoyed with my basement I just did the same and it so nice.

4

Fixturefanatic t1_jdu8a03 wrote

You could tape a string to the light switch and using a couple eyehooks run the string up to the top of the stairs. I did this as a child in my bedroom, so that I could get into bed with the light on and then turn it off from in bed. I even set up two strings - on and off :)

3

polarbears84 t1_je2ae72 wrote

There are these battery-powered light switches that you just attach to the wall via a peel away adhesive or via small nails, depending on which type you get.

1

nettrekker t1_jdxyvgw wrote

I need some advice on how to support a fence in my backyard. It's currently supported on one side (by the stucco), but the other side isn't really supported and currently leans quite a bit when it's windy. Thanks!

https://imgur.com/a/cUYCz4a

2

caddis789 t1_jdzaxq6 wrote

You should put in a new post. It looks like the post that's there wasn't installed very deep, or it has rotted through (or both).

1

elizabethwhitaker t1_je5h9o4 wrote

Hi, I’m curious how much I should spend on a stud finder. I see them on sale online for anywhere between $1000 and $14. There’s also an iPhone app, which I might try for fun. I don’t do a lot ofDIY but I’m in my 30s and buying more nice furniture and things and it would be nice to hang stuff properly. But I don’t want to shell out for a fancy device if a simple $20 will do the trick.

2

--Ty-- t1_jed8pn3 wrote

The Franklin M210 is the king of traditional-style stud finders, and it typically runs 60-80 dollars CAD.

1

MrMuf t1_jeco6xm wrote

I want to make a board for laying on my lap when I play on the coach. What is a good material for this that doesn't flex much and isn't heavy?

2

Guygan t1_jecqdbc wrote

Plywood.

3

MrMuf t1_jecs7a0 wrote

Does it need to be a certain thickness? I don't want it to flex. I am thinking around 3'x3'

1

carrots-hummus t1_jdrdsgy wrote

We've brought these photos to Home Depot and some knowledgeable friends, and so far, no one knows what they are or how to best remove them.

We tried rotating the pins, but they're too small to rotate with a 6mm or 7/32in socket and too large to rotate with a 5mm or 3/16in socket.

A hex pin inside a larger hex socket: https://imgur.com/a/kbETtMm

A backed out view from inside the house: https://imgur.com/Al6iskQ

There are 3 of these pins on each vertical side of the frame. Anyone know what they are and how best to remove them?

1

--Ty-- t1_jed9fcy wrote

Security Hex.

1

carrots-hummus t1_jed9vuz wrote

Thank you! After a quick Google, there are some similar looking bolts. That's something I can work with.

1

Sharky-PI t1_jdrq9xf wrote

(What colour) Should I paint my bar?

I built a collapsable rollable neighbourhood bar / dining room table, with flags on the front, and two countertops, which are both currently white, painted in about 6 layers of basic emulsion on cheap cheap fibreboard kinda material. Should I:

  1. Paint both white surfaces in a deep wood colour so it looks like a teak bar?

  2. Paint the top one (main one for drinkers) deep wood, and keep the bottom one (hidden one for bartender) white, so it's easier to see things?

  3. Epoxy them with a number of very thin coats of epoxy after painting & drying?

  4. If you think painting either surface a nice wood colour would look good, do you think any of the stains are appropriate? Looks like I have 3 x redwood, and polyurethane, linseed oil, and the aforementioned epoxy. So it seems I have 3 of the same-ish (wrong) stain colour, and 3 different flavours of sealant.

  5. If those aren't appropriate: based on this I think I'd want a restoration stain, hybrid (oil vs water based), so potentially this shortlist. This says dark brown reclaimed oak is the best for bar tops, so this or this are potentially good options?

  6. Am I right in thinking I wouldn't need to epoxy if I used those since they're waterproof? But presumably I'd still want to in order to create the hard flat shiny surface that'll be easy to clean?

Thanks in advice for any ideas, suggestions, thoughts. Cheers!

1

BritishSabatogr t1_jdtiw19 wrote

So I live in a rented house, it's old, like 1860s. It's been retrofit with central air so in the summer it mostly stays cool, but my bedroom on the second floor accumulates heat like crazy. It has 2 big, South facing casement windows, so a normal window AC unit doesn't work. Is there anything I could do to help keep it cool? Everything I've seen online basically says get a freestanding AC unit and an adapter for casement windows, but the AC units are insanely expensive. Is there a good way to rig a box fan or something to cool it off? I'm considering a plywood sheet the size of the window with a cutout for a fan, but not sure if that would really work. The room has cold air output, it no return vents to pull the hot air

1

--Ty-- t1_jed9b7t wrote

In the summer, all bottom-floor vents are supposed to be closed off (or just close off the entire trunk that feeds the downstairs vents directly.) This will send the cold air to the upper floors first.

A fan will simply pull the hot air out of your room, pulling cooler air from the rest of the house into it. It will work, but perhaps not that fast or that well.

1

NestedZephyr t1_jdtz8iy wrote

Quick question about trying to get some nails in my wall to stick:

I'm a broke college student in a cheap rental house, and I just hammered a few nails into the wall, pointing up at about a 45 degree angle, basically as hooks, so I can hang something on them.

Thing is, they're just nails in dry-wall, so the moment I tapped one of them, it fell all the way into the wall. I pulled it out and put a little bit of glue against the hole, but I'm wondering if anyone could suggest any good ways to keep the nails firm where they are.

Would caulk work? I thought about that, but I'd rather get some more informed input. Any advice is appreciated!

1

caddis789 t1_jduin5r wrote

Either move the nail so it's in a stud, or use something else for a hook. There are lots of options.

2

byesickel t1_jdvwb25 wrote

I need advice on how to finish this wall after I pulled off wood paneling. This is in my bike room, and the whole room is covered in this paneling. I will be taking it all off at some point, but I need a little advice on how to start. I was thinking of taking a rotary sander and sanding down the wall where there are rips in the wall and glue on it to smooth those down. Then to take some kind of putty and fill in the holes and gaps. Below is a link to a few of the photos of the wall. Thank you!

https://imgur.com/a/SnvKtyj

1

Sure-Leg-6769 t1_jdyjk55 wrote

Use a paint scraper/putty knife to get off the glue - sanding that will probably gum up the sandpaper and be very annoying (not to mention making some nasty dust). Then cover the holes with spackling. At that point you can sand, or just paint if you're not super picky.

2

byesickel t1_je00k1w wrote

Thank you so much!! You are amazing for answering my question. Now I know where to start. Thanks again!

1

R4lfXD t1_je044p5 wrote

I need advice for cutting into an acrylic front panel of this case for an intake fan. I have no advanced tools for doing it. I've looked for some videos but I'm curious how would you recommend doing it if I want it to be a hole, not a U shaped cutout off the edge?

Like I said I don't have any sort of vertical saw, I just thought I'd do it the cardboard cutter method and then push it out.

1

cyzer t1_je0gmdr wrote

I'm replacing a bathroom vanity and sink,

On the new sink should I install the new faucet and drain prior to installing anything else, would that make my lifer easier?

1

lightspeedtravel t1_je1oqnc wrote

Need some help on finishing trim at the top of the stairs.

https://imgur.com/a/hp63kE8

Should I run the trim all the way to the edge of the stairs? Or is there a better approach?

1

caddis789 t1_je46qsx wrote

If it were me, I think I'd follow the angle of the skirt board up to the top of the trim board, so you have a continuous line from the skirt to the base.

2

lightspeedtravel t1_je4l1t3 wrote

Like add trim ontop of the skirt board. So it runs down the stairs as well?

1

Freds_Premium t1_je2jck9 wrote

I have 64 pvc pipes that I need to clean for a furniture project. What's the best way to clean them? They are all 30" long. They could be soaked in some sort of plastic tub. The question is, will diluted acetone work? Soaking for more than 24 hours to hopefully not have to do a lot of hand scrubbing.

1

--Ty-- t1_jed91wk wrote

Acetone eats PVC.

The best way to clean them is simply to clean them. Bring them into the shower with you, or take a pressure washer to them, or put them in a big tub of soapy water to soak for a while.

1

Freds_Premium t1_jedaj1l wrote

Thanks, I'll give that method a try. You mean the lettering will also come off with just a soak in soap and water?

1

--Ty-- t1_jedd4es wrote

No, there's no way to remove the lettering without also damaging the tubing. wiping with acetone will be the fastest way.

1

cheesecaketruck t1_je2vmhw wrote

I have a piece of Lexan PC that was used as a sign for a commercial retail freezer. We bought it used of a previous owner who had the sign with their logo on it. I would like to remove the logo to have it be a blank white Lexan sign. The sign itself is 81"x 8" (long and thin). There's is a thing layer of plastic covering the paint and the paint itself can come up with a little elbow grease, we discovered.

Local sign shops have quoted us at multiple hundreds of dollars to cut a new piece to these dimensions or cover it with vinyl for ~$100. I'm trying to figure out if its worth it for me to just manually scrub of the sign? Will a heat gun help left off the plastic covering? Will something like acetone remove the paint without damaging the Lexan?

Thanks!

https://imgur.com/a/8qbBerM

1

paradoll t1_je3eofr wrote

I’ve got a 36” door opening with a bifold that I want to convert to double pivot doors. Unfortunately this 70s house has a 1”x2” door stopper/trim around the front of the door, reducing the flush, himgeable surface of the casing to 34”. I can’t shave off 1/2” on each side of the hollow doors… and looking at taking the jambs out and redoing the trim looks like it would be more expensive and labour intensive than its worth.

34” doors are hard to come by where I am, but there are 32” and 36” bifolds at home depot. I thought maybe I could take one off of each to average to 34”… (there are two closets)

Would it bother you if one side of the door was 16” and the other side was 18”? They would swing out opposite directions with hinges on the outer side. https://imgur.com/a/tPNnPZt

1

SpaceChoice5472 t1_je3p4cw wrote

I asked in another sub

Simple question guys nothing about cost just concern. I live in East Ky one of the areas that was flooded. We’ve not been home since, I had to go home today to do a fema inspection over the phone. We found some troubles. I’m a totally desk jockey with a background in social work, so I’ve been learning a lot. But during the inspection which was conducted on the phone the back wall of the house which took the damage from the water coming off the hills, it looked pregnant, sticking out probably 2-3 inches. With the water damage and roof damage is this a concern? Thank you for answers!

1

RecognitionJust6171 t1_je3sgun wrote

Ahaha I literally just came from the other sub and saw your post there.

1

SpaceChoice5472 t1_je4p3zl wrote

Yea I have a 50,000.00 dollar bridge quote, I’m trying to save money where I can.

1

Astramancer_ t1_je5uxn4 wrote

It can be. If you're lucky it's just drywall. If the studs themselves are askew then it's a huge problem. If it's just the drywall sticking out then, sure, you gotta replace the drywall but it doesn't automatically mean there's structural problems. Don't get me wrong, there could still be structural problems, this isn't a hard "it's fine" if it's just drywall bowing.

1

SpaceChoice5472 t1_je7uwg0 wrote

Thank you for your response. I have so many issues I don’t know where to begin man. It sounds like I picked the wrong thing to ask about lol. How do I Check for footer damage

1

GodWhyAmISoBored t1_je45u2x wrote

Hi there, I’m currently making decorative Color changing potions for my fantasy book shelf. Made with isopropyl alcohol with food colouring and mica powder.

I really wanted to make a white liquid red powder potion but my white food colouring Fades after a day or two and the alcohol becomes clear again (while ALL the other colours work perfectly fine and don’t fade at all)

I’ve tried water colour paint and acrylic paint as well, but neither of those worked well with the mica. Does anyone know any other paint mediums with which I could colour isopropyl alcohol permanently? I wondered if alcohol ink would work but buying a singular bottle of white for just one potion is kinda expensive (since Im not selling them) Any ideas?

1

--Ty-- t1_jed8wdo wrote

Food colouring is organic.

Isopropyl destroys organic molecules.

You need an alcohol or solvent-based dye, or you need to stop using Isopropyl, and switch to something else, like mineral oil, but you will then need to switch to an oil or solvent-based dye as well.

1

GodWhyAmISoBored t1_jed9gqm wrote

The thing is that food colouring is the usual medium used by potion makers with this exact recipe. Some use paint but usually to keep the liquid transparent instead of opaque, most paints like acrylic paint don’t really work. And all the other colours aside white work and hold up literal years.

So I’m not sure about your explanation if the rest of it has always worked. But I guess I can try other stuff

1

MayFlower1992 t1_je5rqsl wrote

So I’m trying to make one of those “SOS I need an organ!” Can someone offer advice on where or how to print them?

11.5 x 3 Bumper stickers (like 10 or 20 at most)

Every time I think I’ve found something affordable they want you to print like 100 of them or their shipping cost is insane ($33 on one of them)

I was debating printing my own at Office Depot or Staples but I’m not sure how to go about doing that

Bumper Sticker here

1

caddis789 t1_je968ze wrote

Go to Office Depot or staples. Also, I know there are a lot of folks who print stickers and decals on Etsy. You could see if you can find someone to do it there.

1

LosAngelesRon t1_je6s6xr wrote

I’m looking to get milk crates, any ideas where I could find cheap/free milk crates

1

TheDarkClaw t1_je6sj2h wrote

can anyone suggest me a 3/16 screw for drywalls that dont need an anchor?

1

--Ty-- t1_jed8mzn wrote

There's no such thing. All screws require anchors in drywall.

1

Its-a-m-ie t1_je76uk9 wrote

I'm refinishing some oak stairs with a friend. We stained them, and then applied what we thought was a water based polyurethane on top. Turns out it was a water based polyacrylic which isn't recommended for stairs. So we waited till that dried (a couple hours), buffed it a bit and applied an oil based polyurethane over top. Now I'm worried we've made a big mistake. Any thoughts? Is this project doomed?

1

--Ty-- t1_jed8lme wrote

Eh, you would have been fine with just the polyacrylic. It's not as tough as urethane, but it's still fine.

Don't know why you decided to switch to oil afterwards, but either way the poly was not fully cured when you went over it. It may stay soft now, it may not.

1

mikew_reddit t1_je7tzdo wrote

Basic question from a first time DIYer...

I'm thinking of building this shed and reviewing the 10x12-S3 Studio Shed Materials.

What is this item?

  • Description: 1x8 Tongue and Groove Siding
  • Length/Size: 4'x8'x 1/2"
  • Qty: 350 s.f.

It seems I need 350 square feet of 1" by 8" Tongue and Groove Siding (Is the length 8 feet?)

 

It's unclear what 4'x8'x 1/2" is exactly. Do I buy the siding in 4 feet by 8 feet sheets?

What is the 1/2" referrng to? I thought maybe it's the thickness of the siding but from the "1x8 Tongue and Groove Siding" description it should be 1"?

 

Perhaps something close to this? Although it's 5/8" instead of 1/2": https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/siding/plywood-panel-siding/5-8-x-4-x-8-pine-plywood-panel-siding-8-on-center-groove-pattern/1451140/p-1444439107854-c-13383.htm

1

caddis789 t1_je96245 wrote

That siding is made to look like tongue and groove boards. It has grooves down the face which give the appearance of individual boards. The 1x8 in the description means that the grooves are placed where the grooves would be if you were using actual 1x8 boards. If it were 1x6, the grooves would be closer together to look like 1x6 boards. This part is purely aesthetic. If you want a different looking style of siding, do it.

The sheet is 4' wide x 8' long and 1/2" is the thickness of the sheet. The 4' x 8' is the most important spec. Those plans call for 350 ft^2 . Each sheet is 32 ft^2 , so you will need 11 sheets minimum (mistakes, and the way the cuts lay out on the sheet might add to that total). The extra 1/8" in thickness shouldn't make a big difference. It will add some weight, that's all.

2

mikew_reddit t1_je9uu43 wrote

Thanks so much for the very clear and thorough explanation.

1

minu-tia t1_je8nm65 wrote

My baby has a Foldable Pikler Climbing Triangle (see photos).

Looking for ideas to "lock" it in an open position? When my son pushes on one of the sides it starts to fold in on itself.

Ideally need the solution to:

  1. Be baby-safe (no choking hazards, etc)
  2. Maintain foldable function as we store it away when not in use
  3. Not turn it into an eyesore

My husband & myself are NOT super handy but we are happy to give things a go!

Look forward to any tips. :)

1

Astramancer_ t1_je9jyfj wrote

Idea:

Put it in the open position as far as it'll go. Clamp it for now so it can't move while you're messing with it. Drill a hole in the corner of the top triangle thing and the moveable leg (same hole -- lower left hand corner in your picture). Run a bolt through the hole you just drilled. Either use a nut (for more difficult removal) or a wingnut (for easier removal) to hold the bolt in place.

Now the leg can't move and the holes should line up every time you open it.

1

GodWhyAmISoBored t1_je9lvh7 wrote

Does heat affect mica powder in wax? Could I mix it with sealing wax to make different Color wax seals or would that mess it up?

1

Astramancer_ t1_jeaarzd wrote

Any reasonable temperature where wax is still wax instead of vapor will not negatively impact mica powder.

I know it's not your question, but you shouldn't use it in candles with wicks because the powder will end up clogging the wick, which negatively impacts performance.

1

GodWhyAmISoBored t1_jee4ac2 wrote

I only plan on using it to make wax seals so with what you’re saying that shouldn’t be a problem then. Not a candle maker, but thanks for the info anyways - who knows what I might get into next lol

1

jpro1001 t1_jeaa2dj wrote

Hi, I'm trying to mount a tv to a gazebo. The tv will weigh about 20 pounds and is about 42". I don't want to weaken the roof beams or drill too many holes. Any ideas for hardware or wood placement for this project? Here are some photos. I was thinking of some kind of coated garage utility/bike hook that would hang on the post, but I can't find a simple small hook with the proper bending. Also I thought about galvanized flat straps (looks like metal tape), but I would have to loosen the roof bolts and that is a pain to readjust with the rubber grommets in the channels if they slip down I would have to take the whole roof off to fix them. I thought about toggle bolts but the smallest ones that would fit in that hollow vertical bar that are an inch long and people say don't trust them with anything heavy...

Mockup drawing: https://ibb.co/L995CSn

Tv Stand: https://a.co/d/4ijkOgs

More gazebo photos: https://ibb.co/jGSNKxJ

https://ibb.co/PQvsghn

https://ibb.co/ysfBD9P

https://ibb.co/wsZ87CM

https://ibb.co/S3vLS5Q

1

Sure-Leg-6769 t1_jeb0agq wrote

Bathroom faucet is leaking badly from the bottom of it when turned on (dripping down the stopper rod). Not coming from either of the water connections and no visible leaks above the counter.

Is this more likely to be a fix or replace?

https://i.imgur.com/YqRMzyz.jpg

1

katzeye007 t1_jebrf9t wrote

I've got my mom's old dansk pots, they have scratches inside them. Are they repairable? Anyone know of a food-safe/grade epoxy?

1

Guygan t1_jecqfvz wrote

Post a picture.

What is the surface made of?

1

tantan35 t1_jefnaps wrote

Renting here. Moved into a very old home, at least a hundred years old. The water heater is electric and just not cutting it. I want to turn up the heat, but I can’t for the life of me find the circuit breaker to cut off power before I do so. I’ve called the owner and he doesn’t know where the circuit breaker is either. I’m thinking because of the age, it’s probably a fuse box instead.

Is there a way to adjust the heat of an electric water heater if I don’t have a circuit breaker? Im tired of warm-at-best showers.

1

Freds_Premium t1_jefnpvn wrote

Making a 30X30" wood frame with a mesh fabric covering it. The purpose is that it will be a cassette that slides into a rack. Think like a bakers rack. Only this is for clothing. What's the best way to secure the mesh fabric to the wood frame? Would staples work? Or will it rip through? Based on this idea

1

_MrFlowers t1_jegy0c7 wrote

You know those hovering displays that are popular lately? For Bluetooth speakers or whatever. It's a magnetically levitating thing right? How would I make one for a phone that can also gently charge the device by Qi? If it's an inch away or so it could work but I am struggling to find parts for this for under $100.

1

_MrFlowers t1_jegy3q0 wrote

The intent would be to have a hovering wireless charger that would be "contactless"

1