Viewing a single comment thread. View all comments

caducus t1_iui6i0s wrote

Reply to comment by OrangeYouGlad100 in What is the max joist span for a deck with deck blocks? by OrangeYouGlad100

Correct about the 2x8 spans. Those are shit plans and there are a few things wrong. The most obvious being their materials list having errors.

But yes, they are using 2x8s and in theory those are supported by the rim joists and the span is allowable. They just have some extra supporting deck blocks in there for good measure.

But the way they have the joist hangers set up in there the joists are not actually being supported. I wouldn't follow those plans to the letter.

Anyway, if you're dead set on using 2x6s with questionable spans just use more deck blocks than you need and you don't have to overthink the framing so much.

2

OrangeYouGlad100 OP t1_iuidc4i wrote

Thanks, that makes sense. Those plans might be shit, but my impression is that all the regulations and suggestions I'm reading are overkill for an unattached deck that sits at ground level and only supports a few patio chairs. Like, do I really need to dig a 4 foot deep hole and dump in bags of concrete for something this size?

1

caducus t1_iuiei4d wrote

There will always be better ways to do a thing. Does your area freeze? If so you would want to pour footings deeper than your ground freezes, as the frost will move the footings up and down and make your deck unlevel. Google "frost heave."

But, frost heave or not, you can get away with deck blocks if you're trying to go cheap and easy and accepting that the platform will end up moving.

And certainly if this deck is elevated you want to pay really good attention to beam spans and hardware and making sure you're not going to kill anyone.

But if you're putting down a platform on the ground for a few chairs and want to cut some corners, go ahead. There will always be people (on this forum) who will poke holes in your project and point out all the errors (and there will almost always be errors.) But there's also something to be said for learning by doing and not getting bogged down under the weight of perfection to the point that you never build anything.

You might find your deck spongy. Or unlevel. Or you might have to replace it in a few years with something better. But if you don't mind sacrificing a little time and money for the sake of learning some lessons, do it. Build some confidence and competence and make some mistakes to better learn what to do (and what not to do) next time.

It's easier to start putting together the pieces of how to do things the right way by doing, rather than learning just the theory.

My two cents. I sell build plans and have built a ton. I stand by the sentiment. Don't kill anyone. Do some research. But feel free to make some mistakes and learn by a little trial and error if you are willing to accept the consequences.

1

OrangeYouGlad100 OP t1_iuigh4g wrote

Thanks for the input. Yes, it does freeze where I'm at, but I'm thinking frost heave won't be a big deal for a deck that sits a few inches off the ground.

The deck is indeed just for a few deck chairs and doesn't need to be built like a tank. I honestly don't even care if it becomes a little unlevel or wobbly after a few years as long as it continues to support two adults and their beers.

1

deadfisher t1_iujbpvy wrote

One thing I've heard engineers say is: "Any idiot can build a bridge that stands, but it takes an engineer to build a bridge that barely stands."

The point is that to make something truly economical that will last takes a lot of experience. And what counts as "barely stands" to an engineer is not the same as what it means to you.

Yes if you just slap up a deck it'll be ok for a few years. But I wouldn't get carried away trying to lighten designs and skimp out on footings without a good working understanding of what time, water, and gravity will do to the ground and materials you are using for the deck.

Or if you are ok with things starting to get shitty in a couple years... Go for it I guess.

1