Tarashank t1_ivey6kc wrote
There is stress on that hose, opt for a longer one as this one will fail.
[deleted] t1_ivfopf9 wrote
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snowe2010 t1_ivfv112 wrote
I think it's installed at the height where the nozzle could rest on the ground to actually reduce stress on the hose. they just need a longer hose
sudzikle OP t1_iveza8h wrote
Good idea
JaDodger t1_ivfgd7n wrote
I’m not wise to these things but would a longer hose reduce pressure? Sort of like the longer you make a straw the harder you need to suck to get liquid through?
mister-noggin t1_ivfi7hq wrote
It won't make a meaningful difference. The flow restrictor in the showerhead is going to do much more than a longer hose ever will.
Sodomeister t1_ivfm1pz wrote
I have a well and had abysmal pressure in my shower head despite the system sitting at 60psi. Removed the restrictor and it was a game changer. I felt a bit bad but the excess water goes into the leach bed anyways so..
mister-noggin t1_ivfmkuc wrote
I've removed them before too. It was a huge improvement, but it also drained the water heater very quickly. I probably should have changed the showerhead instead, but it was a rental and I didn't have much money at the time.
Sodomeister t1_ivfnhe2 wrote
We have a 50 gallon and there are only two of us so I think we will be okay. I'd go tankless but the water heater was just replaced prior to us buying the house so it doesn't seem like a good investment atm.
[deleted] t1_ivfs1us wrote
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babecafe t1_ivgcqf5 wrote
Tankless electric use resistance heaters which costs $$$$ to use, and need high current wire and breakers which costs $$$$ to install. Tankless gas, if you've got a sufficient gas line (can go up to 199kBTU) only need a little electricity.
[deleted] t1_ivgz6ag wrote
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babecafe t1_ivhhv6s wrote
Ok, so your using the electric tankless to provide supplemental heat when the tank runs cold, then. Here in California, electricity runs 35+ cents/kWh, so the relative cost is more dramatic. My local city is now outlawing gas appliances for new construction and 50%+ remodels, and they can have my natural gas tankless water heater when they can literally pry it out of my cold dead hands. I just finished my 90% remodel + 9% addition, so I'm well positioned that way.
[deleted] t1_iviugca wrote
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babecafe t1_ivhirn8 wrote
Recirculation just keeps the HW pipes (and contents) warm, which should be insulated with foam. You can use a timer to decide when it runs. Gas heat in a tankless is pretty much instantaneous, but there is a "cold water sandwich" issue when there not enough mixing in the pipes.
[deleted] t1_iviuaoz wrote
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therealCatnuts t1_ivfiwnb wrote
^ That’s what she said ^
Tarashank t1_ivfiqiu wrote
most houses have many feet of pipe moving that water to the hose, and an extra 2 won't make any difference, but early failure of the hose connection due to stress will cause a problem.
Having been blessed with only a short straw I have never heard of your complaint before.
JaDodger t1_ivfqpmv wrote
Yeah that makes sense. I’ve never had an issue with straws before I just remember seeing a physics video about it (probably veritsaium) and was just curious
UncleBones t1_ivg5b4c wrote
The issue isn’t the length of the straw, that friction is negligible (unless the straw was extremely thin). The issue with a longer straw is the difference in elevation at the point of suction compared to the elevation of the liquid. If you have a silly straw you need much less (negative) pressure than if that same straw was straightened out.
autosdafe t1_ivfhh6a wrote
The difference is minimal
[deleted] t1_ivfnavr wrote
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JaDodger t1_ivfqhoo wrote
Oh no I fully understand that, I’m just curious as to the effect of longer hoses is all :)
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