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Highlander2748 t1_ja5zx0j wrote

You can consider putting bituminous rubber strips on top before the decking goes on.

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drytoastbongos t1_ja6cfwm wrote

OP, look up "joist tape" for this. Super easy to apply and will definitely prolong the joists.

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Wellcraft19 t1_ja6hy5z wrote

Yup, joist tape should be mandatory to use on any deck project. Especially when using Trek, TimberTech, etc, as very few will ever inspect the joists after deck installation (as the boards last forever - which is not the case for joists that might be poorly protected, or worse, sitting directly in moist soil).

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DelayVectors t1_ja7v9gj wrote

Yep, bought a house with a raised deck, trex boards on top but they didn't even use pressure treated wood for the joists. It's about 10 years old and the top looks great, but I'm going to have to rip the whole thing out. Every other piece of wood besides the decking is mushy and disintegrating. It's infuriating.

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drytoastbongos t1_ja8gogl wrote

Realized my contractor installed my new TimberTech deck without joist tape, drives me bonkers. I'm currently debating whether I take the decking up to install or just roll with it.

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Wellcraft19 t1_ja8jfp3 wrote

Install now, and you might never have to deal with it. Leave be, and at some time you will have to replace the structure, while the ‘deck’ still looks great. Yet, that’s likely 20+ years out assuming all other boxes were checked.

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Tibbaryllis2 t1_ja873rd wrote

This is the first I’m learning of joist tape and I wanted to ask a question without hijacking OPs post:

Are there any situations where the joist tape isn’t indicated? I’m getting ready to replace the decking on a floating dock.

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Highlander2748 t1_ja88iru wrote

If you have a deck that may be covered by a roof, it may not be needed. It’s really only the last 15(?) years or so that’s it’s been more commonly used. The joist tape is used to protect the top face of the joist and employs a self sealing bituminous strip to seal around the fasteners and help keep the top of the joists from degrading too soon. It’s fairly cheap insurance, but it’s also worth noting that decks were built with pressure treated lumber for decades before this technology. I have never had a deck fail because I didn’t use it.

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Tibbaryllis2 t1_ja8l68e wrote

Thanks for the reply. The dock decking is mostly covered by a tin roof, but the dock perimeter and ~40 feet of catwalk from the shore is not.

The house was built in the 50s and this will be only the third time we replace the decking, but I’m not shy about incorporating new best practices.

The way the decking is built, the joists (?) underneath are laid horizontally (2x6s, 6 side up) for attaching the deck to, so there is quite a bit of lateral surface to collect water. So we do have some issues with it rotting out where we screw in the decking. While the exposed decking suffers the most from 24/7 full sun (house on the north side of the lake so the decking is south facing).

Edit: I think we’re also victims of the pressure treatment regulations change as we replaced the decking only ~15 years ago and it’s already pretty soft in some places compared to the original decking in a pile on the property still having some pretty sound pieces still.

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Highlander2748 t1_ja9bp9q wrote

Your description of the framing off the dock is concerning because I can’t think of a reason where joists would work as intended when installed as you describe. Their strength comes from being installed with the narrow edge used to support the decking/floor. You’re correct about updated pressure treated wood regulations. The ACQ lumber does not seem to be as hardy as the older CCA lumber. You may want to see if any dock builders supply a different grade of PT lumber? You could also use Mahogany/Ipe/Teak or any number of more exotic lumbers that stand the test of time better. I also suspect the decking failure may be connected to the joist positioning as that is a lot of surface area to have moisture trapped and it’s just as capable of damaging the underside of the decking as it is the top face of the joists. In your instance, the application of the joist tape may actually trap more moisture and hold it on the underside of the boards.

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Tibbaryllis2 t1_ja9q0sx wrote

Oh sorry for being misleading. It’s a welded steel frame with 2x6s laid over them to give area to screw to when laying the decking. All the decking ends overlap steel crossbars and tie into the underlying 2x6. (Edit- I assume it’s a standard way of building them because all of the neighbor docks are the same).

So it’s structurally sound, but the boards underneath are the first to rot (due to the lateral surface area available to hold moisture). Followed by the decking board ends where they’re in contact with the underlying wood.

Re: your last statement, that’s what I was curious about too.

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itman404 t1_ja7p5cp wrote

> Yup, joist tape should be mandatory to use on any deck project. Especially when using Trek, TimberTe h, etc, as very few will ever inspect the joists after deck installation (as the boards last forever - not the case for joists that might be poorly protected, or worse, sitting directly in moist soil).

yeah, joist looks good, if he put tape, should last another 10-20 years.

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