Recent comments in /f/DIY

skantea t1_jeh03p0 wrote

I think you cut out a square piece of drywall around the whole hole, and then use that piece to trace the precise shape on a new piece of drywall. Cut a hole for the vent and then replace the piece you cut out with the new piece. Screw, tape and paint.

I don't do drywall tho.

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awgunner t1_jegyzki wrote

A few things on the AFI / GFI outlets. The line side goes to the breaker. The load side goes to any continuing outlets. The silver screw goes to your neutral/white wire, while the brass screw goes to the Hot/black wire.

If the test switch doesn't work, then something is either miswired or the outlet is bad.

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loihsdtmh t1_jegy806 wrote

Most basic answer I personally would do. Remover the vent from the wall (cut the tape at the joint and remove the slip joint) Cut a rectangle of dry wall out that goes above the bad patch and below the current pipe. (Drywall saw or razor knife)

If possible cut your piece out on both sides until you hit studs. Then, aim for your cut to land in the middle of the stud so you can screw the new piece into the studs.

Use the cut-out piece of drywall as a template to mark a replacment piece of drywall and cut out.

Remove and foam that might hit the new piece of drywall using a drywall knife, razor, cheap bread knife ext.

Using a hole saw, razor knife, drywall saw, jig saw or whatever, you have to cut the new hole for the vent pipe. (Again using the cut out drywall as a template for where to put the hole.)

Put new piece back up on the wall. (Test fit you pipe at this point to make sure you have the hole in the correct spot)

Screw in, mud, spray texture the replacment piece in place. (Lots of youtube videos on this)

Re connect vent pipe. And retape seam. Or paint first.

That should be it.

You could also do a quick repair which would be. Try and get the top circle patch as flush to the outside drywall as possible. Clean out the foam that sticks out past the front edge of drywall. Buy premixed drywall putty in a medium size tub and texture spray in a can. Fill all the voids with putty and make the finish as smooth as possible. (This might take a few layers depending on how deep you have to fill) Apply texture spray on top. Paint. Won't be stunning, but it will better then what you have.

Hopefully this gets you headed in the right direction.

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sielingfan t1_jegx6p7 wrote

So the cheapest thing (and what I've done in my house) is to purchase rubber threshold ramps from Amazon (or spinlife, or possibly request some through PCP/PT/OT if that's a thing for you). Make only the minimal adjustments to flooring that you would've done anyway, and then set these mini ramps at each transition and trim them to the desired height and width. Mine showed up with about a 2" height, which I cut down to about 3/4" to match my door threshold. Put some grip tape on the bottom, call it a day. I also put in (well, had a contractor put in) a foam-based ramp in the garage, which has held up phenomenally well and looks nicer than the metal ramp outside (not as nice as the concrete in the back yard, but much cheaper).

But anyway, yeah -- threshold ramps make it so you really don't have to worry about perfect level. Although, I say that for wheelchair purposes, and your tripping concerns are maybe a different animal. If you go that route, buy one taller than you need and then cut it lengthwise at the proper height for your floor.

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ImpressiveBig8485 t1_jegwb7l wrote

Sand is rated coarse -> fine

“Sharp sand” is coarse sand, like concrete sand. Mason/Playground sand is much finer so it feels “softer”.

That is why I mentioned, if you must use sand, to use a coarse sand like concrete sand BUT it should still ONLY be used as the top 1” of bedding under the pavers, and NOT used for the base foundation. Even then, I would still recommend DG or 1/4” chip stone for the 1” bedding instead of sand.

Watch a few videos by “The Christian Hardscaper” on YouTube.

Btw I sent you a PM if you want to check it out!

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Can-DontAttitude t1_jegwazf wrote

It’s a little hard to see at this angle, but I think they’ve got a few inches of space between the bottom of the trunk and the bottom of the cvac. OP, find a way to fasten the top of your wall to the joists. It’ll be far better than relying on the blue 2x4. It’ll probably involve cutting the cvac in a few places and gluing it back together with couplings.

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