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Downvote_me_dumbass t1_je50kqx wrote

Go in with a plan.

You should already have financing through a credit union or small bank. You need to do the research the lowesr interest rates in your area and payment repayment plan BEFORE you go to the dealership.

Once you get that done, and are issued a check by the credit union, you should plan on using up to 80% of the amount for the purchase of the vehicle.

This process is the most important as it lets you plan a budget and allow for anything extra that occurs during your shopping experience or the shanagans in the Finance Dept.

Look for the vehicle you want, but make sure you look at Consumer Reports before you buy. Yes you want a new car, but you should be buying this car with the ideology, “what can I get for this new car when I sell it down the road.” That means, the car should be rated high on Consumer Reports overall score. The last thing you want is a nice looking car where you have to spend your time working on it or having it in the shop.

  • When you’re ready at the dealership, don’t play their games of “what kind of payments are you looking at?” You’re already preapproved, so you’ve beating them at this game (they’ll make your payment plans if you’re there without preapproval, but it will be for long term at a higher interest rate, resulting in you paying more over the course of the loan).

  • Ask benign questions, if you’re interested in the car to establish a relationship and get a feel for the dealerships knowledge of the car. For example, ask “how many miles between oil changes.” Do a little research, and you should know this answer before you ask. Another good one is “does this come with a spare tire,” and check the trunk for one. Anyone telling you that they don’t put a spare in the trunk and put a tire pump in the back to “save MPGs” is straight up lying. There are manufacturers that do this to save production costs, but it isn’t even negligible on the MPGs for a spare to be in the back.

Check out the functions of the car, make sure the seats are comfortable and that the visibility when you move your body, such as in reverse or during lane changes is sufficent.

If you’re buying from a major dealer, your goal is to make sure the sticker price doesn’t have mark up. The manufacturers price should be the MAX (less taxes + doc) on what you pay.

  • Check your states DMV website to see if they have tax and fee webpage. This is why I previously mentioned the 80% too. As a general rule, roughly 10% of the cost of the car goes to DMV/State.

  • When you do get going with the Finance Guy at the dealership, you really need to stay firm and say “no” to any additional options. Window tint, accident options, and other services are cheaper if you hunt outside the dealership or go through your insurance. The only thing that might be cheaper is additional parts, like floormats and cerain OEM add-ons at the time of purchase as those will be covered under the cars warrenty.

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