Do you need to go into debt anytime soon? If not, don't worry about it. Are you in debt now?

Keep the oldest fee-free card or two. If you don't come anywhere close to maxxing out those cards on monthly spend and you pay it in full on time, no problem. If your monthly max spend on CCs would be close to the max of your favorite card, maybe call them to see if you can get your limit bumped up a bit. The, close anything you don't use.

If you really want some hard-core ideas, these folks have done just about anything to cut costs and still live content:

https://www.frugalwoods.com/

THAT is good financial planning. Use other people's money when it doesn't cost you if you can. I still think having an oh-sh*t stash will pay off for you in the future. :)

Never had an emergency, huh? Just wait.

Seems we should complicate your decision making process:

https://investor.vanguard.com/investment-products/cds

Mom and Dad, trusted sibling... somewhere if you were to get mail, it wouldn't be tossed immediately. Not critical as most things are delivered online now, but you have to fill something out. What is on your drivers license?

The immune system isn't triggered by the meager nutritional rainbow of artificial feed. It's the meager nutritional rainbow (tight-spectrum of nutrients and lack of additional mammalian milk byproducts) that make formula second-rate to breast.

Yes, you leave tax-advantaged accounts alone until you have exhausted all other accounts. But why do you have to withdraw? No job? Emergency spend? Bad budgeting?

The source of the energy? The Sun. On many days, it will be a noticeable thermonuclear ball in the sky emitting no small amount of energy. That energy comes in many frequencies, some of which are absorbed by chemical compounds in our atmosphere and upon the surface of our planet.

Start reading.

The Simple Path to Wealth by JL Collins -- easy to read and put into practice

Your Money or Your Life by Robins – as much about how one views money as uses it

The Millionaire Next Door by Stanley and Danko – normal people’s traits and habits of FI success

Building Wealth and Being Happy by Graeme Falco – connecting finance with mental health

Personal Finance 101 by Michele Cagan – easy to read textbook info in bite-sized pieces

Roommates. Share the house for rent

Um, possibly. That's not much of an employment history. So it brings up a few questions:

Did you get the new job after leaving an old one (without much 'down' time between gigs)? If so, then you have an employment history that goes longer than 4 months.

If this is your first job, 4 months is not a lot of time. Is this a job you expect to hold for a long-ish time, or is it biding you over until you get something else? Are you sure you need to get a car loan? Taking on a loan without a steady full-time job is kinda dangerous to your wealth. Have you worked out a budget for your life or lifestyle? If not, there are plenty of tools online to develop a budget to determine what you can reasonably afford. I've even got a half-baked one you can have.

Yes. Once you file, your return is ‘legit’. And based on your income level, it’s unlikely any additional taxes you pay for being honest will amount to much.

Contribute fully up to the match amount right now. Tonight. Don't wait until tomorrow. Free money, are you kidding me? Easy answer.

But no match? Screw it -- you have to get rid of your debt first.. We are assuming you already have healthcare with an HSA plan you are filling annually, you have a Roth with a highly-diversified ETF like VTI that you max out based on your earned income, and you have an emergency fund fully fleshed out for 6-12 months of your budget. You have a budget, right?

Pity about that student debt and car loan. Does it charge more in interest than your investments might earn? That should be your answer (after filling the HSA, but before you do the Roth).

You've asked for opinion. Here is what I would tell family and friends: One doesn't choose an asset mix for a 401k. One diversifies as fully as possible. One contributes up to at least the company max. ChuanFa suggests a target date fund for the year of retirement -- I'd agree, but add 10 years to that target date. Want to retire in 2050, use VTTSX instead. Oh --and ChaunFa's idea of not looking at it -- solid idea. Even for people who know what they are doing -- solid idea.

High cash yields != high liquidity. If you want it fast, you'll earn nothing on it. If you want it slower, but 'safe', then a CD ladder and/or I-bonds for some interest, even if inflation eats a goodly chunk.

Now -- how much are you contributing and when do you want to retire? Basic math: if you plan on a 4% withdrawal in retirement and want diversified investments to last forever, you'll need 25x your annual budget as a target amount. Live on $10k/yr, that's 250,000 in the account. It's called the 4% rule. I personally use the 3% rule for the same calcs, but I'm not as well-liked.

Another way to look at it: If you use up all of what you earn a given year on your budget, and you want to learn how much you need to put away to live your lifestyle, then the math is easy. Put 5% into your retirement, and in 20 years, you'll have enough to live on for one year. Put 10% in, and you get there in 10 years. Put 25% in, and you have your free year in 4 years of work. See the pattern?

Guessing at timing the market, eh. yak. Look less frequently, don't stop contributing at least to any company match.

Thanks -- yes. I like your wording - much more accurate. Mine was confusing.

FSAs are almost always a losing device. Stick with the HSA - family, with full contributions to a diverse investment every year.

Yes -- once you make above the taxable threshold, the system will withhold. Your prior employers may have calculated a bit differently due to your other filing statuses. Note: withholding and getting it all back in April is a BAD idea -- it means you gave the government an interest-free loan on that money where YOU could have been earning interest. Always try to zero out on the balance between sufficient withholding to pay the taxes you'll have to pay and not over-paying. Good for you for checking on it so you don't get clobbered with an unexpected tax bill in April. Here's the other side: Getting a refund isn't a good thing -- it means someone didn't do their math.

Um... usually if a recipient gets a unit or more of mismatched blood, they won't fair well at all. Immune-suppression drugs might help - but I'd think the risk of infection would counter this 'technique' for blood infusion. Look into RhoGAM treatment with pregnancies for some interesting side notes.

Do you have citations for each of these positions? Better yet, do you have an understanding of the ABO system?

Here's a decent review of blood types:

https://relevantgenetics.com/the-genetics-of-blood-types/

Then you start a basic search engine query and find human AB typing predates the blog rumor of 16th century stuff:

https://www.rhesusnegative.net/staynegative/blood-types-ancient-hebrews/

So the real question would be when did the 'B' allele evolve, and how long did it take for that linage to go mate with the 'A' allele population?