Bad_DNA

Bad_DNA t1_jea811m wrote

I'm unfamiliar with Canadian tax law. You likely made some choices on withholding when you started work, or you have self-employment rules to follow. I'm unqualified to offer an opinion except that reading up on basic employment rules and taxes in your country might answer your questions.

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Bad_DNA t1_jea7kt6 wrote

Yep. Vanguard or Fidelity are two great places to consider. You will likely have to wait 30 days before you can do it after leaving your job. If you get another job with a 401k, you can consider rolling the prior one into the new one. You can also leave the 401k where it is, but you should expect the trustee to fee you for the account periodically.

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Bad_DNA t1_jea5obk wrote

One of the best resources I've found isn't a book, but a podcast called Big Picture Retirement. Start at the beginning, as what they discuss tends to build on prior knowledge.

Mad Fientist is good for those looking to tax optimize and FIRE. The wiki here has good recommendations for reading -- Simple Path to Wealth is an easy read. Something else not stressed enough: Get it together - organize your records so your family won't have to (Cullin, part of the NOLO series). Two free books: https://paulmerriman.com/millions-downloads/

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Bad_DNA t1_je9rrh6 wrote

How are you penalized -- what does it cost you? Unless you are going for a loan immediately, what does it actually cost you?

The purpose of promoting the use of credit cards is profit motive -- every swipe you make costs that merchant. In turn, they raise prices to recoup that cost so you pay more. You now have debt -- so if the credit company gets lucky, you don't pay your whole bill every month. (kudos to you, OP, for not being that debt slave). Beyond this, your utilization doesn't cost you anything. If you want to do the experiment, stop using the card for two months running. No credit charges. THEN apply for the loan you need (don't, I'm not pushing debt -- this is just a lame example).

You are right -- this is not a thing to be worried about as a young adult. You need to be far more worried about all the debt our generation left you. We were pissed that our parents were leaving us a lot of debt, and we've left you 10x more. Sorry about that.

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Bad_DNA t1_je7ixpv wrote

Before you do anything, you would do well to start learning. Don't trust internet advice about your money -- understand this stuff, learn what these two recommended and why. Most of the basics you can learn from the wiki here. I'm not sure this forum would steer you wrong or run endless fees like a neighborhood 'financial advisor' office would, but you best get to learning about your money and what you think you want to do with it before you follow us.

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Bad_DNA t1_je598bf wrote

Lack of sanitation, lack of population willing to protect each other with propylactic hygiene such as masking, distance, washing, vaccinations/antibiotic regimes. Vulnerability due to population concentration, travel, malnutrition, leadership not taking it seriously, science-deniers, alternate facts, illiteracy, substandard sanitation. So many factors go into the math, along with the robustness of the causitive organism, lethality and longevity of the infection.

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Bad_DNA t1_jaeloqr wrote

OP. Read, like actually read, what these people have offered. Trust yourself and your spouse. You can learn all you need from the resources recommended here - and save the fees.

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Bad_DNA t1_jacmqbc wrote

Most retirement plans don't let you move them to a personal IRA (roll over) until after a couple of pay cycles. This gives any laggard paperwork time to filter through the system and your real total for the account has settled down. Additionally, some investment types don't translate well, so you might want to 'go to cash' in the 401k a week before you do roll it over (perhaps something like a IRA with Vanguard or Fidelity or Schwab... just thinking of decent choices) and you have contacted both the destination company and the current trustee to find out procedures, expected fees and such.

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Bad_DNA t1_jacciye wrote

Closing those accounts won't solve the issue, but it'll take away a method of self-harm. Behavior modification is the only way. Your mental challenge is something you will successfully manage, and your finance, too. Not knowiing the terms of your bank accounts (are there annual fees -- sure, close the accounts AFTER they are paid in full and request that the accounts be marked as 'Account closed at consumer's request'. Keep the longest/oldest fee-free card open.

Budget. Sell your stuff. Cancel all of your subscriptions. Get a roommate or 3. Automate the bill payments so you aren't late again and make at least the minimum (but pay more with the money you make from selling your stuff to the highest interest rate. Read the wiki on managing money. Chime or other programs don't do magic. You can do the work without Chime. They are not a bank, but a 'financial technology company'. While they advertise no fees -- how do they make money? You can do this on your own.

Edit -- changed my description of mental situation to something more accurate. Most 'mental illness' isn't an illness. Largely, it is a way of coping or thinking/behaving different that has been labeled by some people to differentiate 'us' from 'them'. When in fact, we are all 'thems'.

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Bad_DNA t1_ja5iq1f wrote

Always assume you'll end up with the high end of those online credit guesstimates. So a $10k car with a 48 month loan at 17% will run an extra $3850 of interest. Assume the purchase price is going to be another $1000-$1500 of dealer 'add-ons' and misc fees, so you could buy an $9000 car for roughly $290/mo. That's before you actually use the vehicle (gas, maint, insurance).

https://www.creditkarma.com/calculators/credit-cards/debt-repayment

But with a less desireable credit score, you can more likely expect usury pricing of 20-25% interest. Splitting the difference at 22.5% interest, you will pay $5254 interest on a 48mo $10k loan.

Anything you can do to raise your FICO (pay all bills on time in full, avoid debt) and/or save toward the vehicle and pay cash (saving 1/3 of the total cost!) is advisable.

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Bad_DNA t1_ja2vjse wrote

Are we talking homo sapien? Yes. The number of chromosomes and number of genes (or recombined genes) aren't directly related. By definition, a species will have the same number of chromosomes, 'though gametes obviously have one of a pair and somatic lines both pairs, with the exception of cells that dispense with the nucleus like RBCs and platelets.

If your prof is discussing transposons or miosis (as opposed to mitosis), you might want to ask them for clarification.

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Bad_DNA t1_j9qw2tc wrote

Most all of those pigments are either degraded or go out the other chute. Urine is the body's way of managing a variety of salts and soluble byproducts of protein catabolism. Urea in various concentrations is... yellow

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Bad_DNA t1_j9ahcmb wrote

Punctuated equilibrium is possibly more likely than some kind of slowing down. As you understand natural selection, what is the driving force? Some selective pressure from the environment is what causes all mutations and all culling of statistically slightly-less advantageous traits from propagating to the next generation. The list of those potential pressures is rather long, no?

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Bad_DNA t1_j774otc wrote

Often, the meds are either interacting directly with the body systems as a substitute for missing/tiny titers of the natural active component, or act as an antagonist for the same, so metering/shutting down the target system. This isn't quite the same as other systems that can develop tolerances (thereby requiring higher doses for the same perceived effect). Honestly, we'd have to take this on a case-by-case basis as no blanket statement is correct. Nor does this function in a natural selection format like antibiotics with bacteria that either evolve of die, where plasmids xfered via sex confer resistance for survivors.

There are plenty of other metabolic considerations. Some drugs are useless in their taken form, and only modifications/metabolism in the gut biome or liver or elsewhere generate the active physiological daughter products.

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Bad_DNA t1_j6pgnf1 wrote

Yeah, so there will be a bit of a short-term hit to the FICO for closing the older card. It's how th FICO math works. If neither card have fees, and to answer your first question -- yep, you'll see an effect. If you don't need to close the account (no fees, right?), can you just park the card you thought about closing in a firesafe, and only use it for a tank of gas every four months or so? This keeps the card 'active' so the bank doesn't unilaterally close the acct for non-use. Yes, that's a thing.

Sorry -- I'd usually tell you to kill every account you don't need. But in this case, you'll have a hit that will last a few months to a year or more on the FICO.

Oh, and while we are on the topic, at least once a year pull your credit report and review it:

Use www.annualcreditreport.com to review all credit accounts, freeze all credit reports with Equifax, Experian, Transunion (use their free services)

Search for how FICOs are calculated -- there are 5 components to it, with account longevity being a fraction. On-time payments are the way to really build a great score as the years go by. Never carry a balance on non-mortgage accounts -- debt interest slavery is bad for your wealth.

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Bad_DNA t1_j6pfyv5 wrote

You've probably spent some time reading the wiki on credit scores and such. And more than a few posts on how others have had the same experience. It'll pass and be fine in a few months.

Use www.annualcreditreport.com to review all credit accounts, and after you get the card, freeze all credit reports with Equifax, Experian, Transunion (use their free services) to prevent identity theft. You and your family members.

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Bad_DNA t1_j6pf6pa wrote

Can you sell stuff to pay down the balances? You are in emergency mode: dump the gaming consoles and eating out and ANYTHING you don't NEED to live on. eBay, Craigslist, local Nextdoor postings -- sell everything you don't need.

Pride's got nothing to do with it. You should be proud you are facing this stuff head on -- take that win. And do EVERYTHING you can to show your partner your appreciation for their efforts.

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