Watch some of Roy Underhill's videos "The Woodwright's Shop". He covers many of the basics and is entertaining to boot. Precision is the key. Use a square Learn to mark your cut lines accurately and don't forget the saw blade has width. So cut just to the side of the line.

>each window will take about four times as long to install.

I don't see why. New construction windows still need leveling, fastening, sealing and trim.

Don't worry it. Let the pike do the work.

If it isn't too deep you could run a snake through it and use a metal detector.

It depends on what it is on. Load, speed, etc matter. Cotter pins and washers are common for low speed applications. Threading becomes necessary where side play is unacceptable.

Contact a local machine shop. Any competent machinist with a lathe can make it. You could also buy a rod and thread it yourself with a die. Or use cotter pins instead of lock nuts.

That's not how it works. You can parallel 12V lead acid batteries of the same state of charge. The main concern is not overcharging the batteries. After the bulk charge (around 14.5V), the voltage should be reduced to a float charge level (around 13.7V). Many battery chargers can do one or the other but don't switch to float when the battery is charged. Look for smart chargers which give their voltage specification for each mode.

edit: AGM gel and flooded batteries may have slightly different voltages. It is best to use a charger designed for the chemistry of the battery.

You were correct. The neutral should go to the threads for safety.

>for fan motors & light bulbs this is not an issue

Proper neutral is important for light bulbs with an Edison (screw) base. The threads must be neutral to reduce the risk of shock when changing bulbs.

A limited hot water supply is not a bad thing. It encourages conservation.

It can be done, but the advantage of a tankless heater is that you don't have to store heated water and lose energy due to inefficient insulation. A recirculating pump will decrease efficiency by storing hot water in the even more inefficient pipes instead of in a tank. Returning through the cold pipe means having to waste hot water whenever you use cold or mixed water. If you don't care about efficiency then it could work for you.

Is it a quarter turn handle or a multi turn one? For the former the handle needs to be removed and rotated 90 degrees. For the latter, there is no correct position.

> two 120v GFCIs in series.

No. You should never put GFIs in series. Besides, that would trip instantly. A 120V GFI compares neutral current to hot current. If they differ by more than 5mA , it trips. A 240V circuit doesn't use a neutral. You would use a 240V double pole GFCI/breaker. It compares the L1 current to the L2 current. If they differ it trips.

I would use a 5 or 12V battery pack with 5 or 12V LED tape or a single 5/12V LED bulb. You probably won't need more than 5W which is 1A at 5V or 0.42A at 12V. A 10 Ah 5V pack can provide 1A for 10 hours.

Possibly. The best way to tell for sure is to try it. Or you could trace the cables.

I believe so. You need a screw that fits in there. Then you can follow the procedure.

Are you aware that pipe wrenches have to be flipped over to switch from tightening to loosening?

From the Larson web site:

Why isn’t my door closing all the way? There are pads in the top mounting rail. In order for the closer to operate correctly, they need to be separated. To do that, just push the door open to 90 degrees and tighten the set screw in the pad closest to the hinges. Then just push the door closed to disconnect the pads. Make sure you have removed the hold open pin.

The pressure drop you describe sounds like the flow is too high. A shower head has to have some restriction in order to make a nice spray. You can try swapping shower heads to see if that's the case. If not, then something is mis-plumbed. Is there a hot water recirculating pump?

A chair mat made for carpets has little nubs on it which reduce movement. You could use contact cement to stick it to the board.

”Prepare the probe!”

Whatever you do, don't think about them having sex on your face before they take a shit there.

>people saying that the fan "will always draw 0.3A regardless of the voltage,"

That's nonsense. 0.3A is the nominal current. Lower voltage=lower current. It could be a little higher if airflow is impeded.

>Surely a 12V/0.3A rating would mean that the fan has a resistance of 40 Ohms and the current would just be I = V / R.

Ohm's law applies to DC in resistors. Fans use coils which have inductance as well as resistance. They commutate the DC into AC for the coils. Plus most DC fans are brushless and you can't measure the resistance directly because of their electronic commutation.

Just trying to halp.

Try searching for "shear" not "sheer".