Maece

Maece t1_jaaq12v wrote

All depends on your time horizon for using the money and your risk tolerance. If you are going to buy a place in 6 months and use the 230k for a down payment, put it in a HYSA and call it done. If you aren't going to buy for a while go ahead and either get a CD going (very low risk) or invest the money in some broad market low cost ETFs (higher risk), or what the heck, yeet it into some crypto currency and find out (insane risk).

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Maece t1_jaa9dd0 wrote

If you have the option of having a loan at 0% or a loan at 12%, I know which I would take. Obviously, that CC won't be at 0% forever, but if you are confident you can pay it down before the rate resets, you would come out ahead. That said, the rate on that CC is going to reset to something like 27%, which is even more insane, so before taking on that debt, be damn sure you can pay it back before it resets.

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Maece t1_ja5vnt3 wrote

I also have RSUs at my current company.

I highly recommend looking at the individual lots of stock and picking and choosing which lots to sell. Also, learn about wash sales and how they will affect you. Candor has a decent write-up about wash sales and tax implications that may prevent you from tax loss harvesting (https://candor.co/articles/money-matters/wash-sales-what-they-are-and-how-to-avoid-them). Of note, if you sell your stock to take the loss and then have RSUs vest within the window, it may prevent you from taking the loss.

My tactic is only to dispose of lots that are positive (sometimes barely positive). I've been fortunate to be able to do so while continuing to vest additional stock.

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Maece t1_ja5ttae wrote

So you want upside in both scenarios, which isn't reasonable: no loss if nothing happens, profit in the hedge account if market crashes. If such an investment vehicle existed, why wouldn't I put all my money into it?

If you are concerned about mortgage rate increases, you could see if the lender you are working with would do a rate lock extension. This will cost money to do, but it lets you lock a rate in now and pay for the rate lock to extend beyond the normal 30 or 45 lock. This will likely get pricey to carry it for 6 months.

If you want to protect the house value going down, not much to do here. Good news though, live in the house long enough and you will not be upside down on it.

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Maece t1_ja5r2bt wrote

What are the contingencies that you have with the contract you have signed? Are you willing to walk away if the value goes down? If financing falls through can you even do that?

Timing the market is generally a fool's errand. I get wanting to try to minimize a possible loss, but 6 months is not much of a timeline to make money to deal with an issue you are worrying about.

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Maece t1_ja5o5ah wrote

I don't understand a 6 month closing. That seems... very long. Regardless...

This is money you have already committed. It's basically already out the door, it just has some time before you need to write the check. You really can't put it into any asset that incurs any type of risk. Put it in a HYSA and call it done.

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