Check what's happening with your feet. If your arches let your feet pronate inward, it starts a chain reaction all the way up your body. I benefited from those dr scholl orthotics.

As far as relief, my wife taught me the following yoga trick. Bend over and grab your shins. Bend one knee and lift that heel (all the weight will shift to the other leg). Then, do the other side. Alternate a few times. Then stand up.

When you do that, your pelvic bone is tilting left, then right, then left, etc. Somehow that helps that lower back area reset or allows the cartilidge to reposition.

Good luck

For me, I like rapport.

It helps to be similar in terms of interests, mannerisms, speech, enthusiasm level, life outlook, etc.

This.

Building on this idea.

You have some partial results with your stud finder.

Knock around and see if you can hear where it is very solid. Combine those finding with the stud finder and magnet results. You'll find somewhere that you are 90% confident in.

Then, drill a tiny test hole and see if the drill is still getting resistance past 1/2" depth and comes out with some wood on it.

You can do this! I believe in you!

Looks like you're getting a floor mat.

Those just happen to be the drill bits I have.

If you get a single 1/4" drill bit 12" long, that will work.

I didn't want to drive to the store. Ha!

If I understand correctly, that swing just needs a lip to hang on, on each side.

If it was my problem, here's something I know would work.

I have two long drill bits (12"). One is 3/16", the other is 3/8". I'd drill from one side all the way through to the other side. I'd put holes about 1" up from the corner and another set about 3" up.

Then, I'd drill matching holes into some wood that we're adding to make the necessary lips. I'd attach the wood using threaded 1/4" rod with good sized washers to spread out the load.

I'd tighten those bolts until the wood was crushed by the washers (assuming pine, it will crush 1/8").

At that point, you'd have metal bolts to carry the shear force and there's no 15 baby that could rip that down.

Paint white.

When the day comes to remove the swing, you just have a few drywall holes to patch and paint.

I've never had much luck with squeaks. You win some, you lose some.

I'll offer this minor variation to your option.

With some patience, you could cut the tongue on those boards and remove them. You'd try to not damage the appearance side if possible. Of course, you need to remove the screws you just put in.

An oscillating (multifunction tool) with the right blade makes this possible. Buy an extra couple of blades since you might encounter the hardwood staples while doing this. If you can tell that you are hitting a nail, bypass it while your blade is good and come back later with your worn blades. (BTW, you can sometimes get a little more use from a blade by filing some notches where the teeth are damaged.) Return any blades you don't use.

Then, you will be looking at the subfloor with some missing flooring. You'd step and push to isolate the squeak. If it disappeared when the boards were removed, good. If not, you identify where the joists are, then get some 3" screws to hold the subfloor to the joists better. At that point, you hope to have no squeak whatsoever.

You'd use construction adhesive to put the boards back and reuse your screws. I'd put wood glue (like Titebond III) where the boards were sawed. A few finish nailing would be good too. Then touch up the cosmetic aspect.

That's my best idea.

Is there a gap where air passes thru at the top edge?

I had a gap and by careful adjustment of the down-limit, I got some more pressure on the door and most of the gap was closed. That's the fastest thing you can do in this weather.

Then I got that garage weatherstrip and used rivets and little washers to hold the weatherstrip on just right. I did mine in the summertime and I can't imagine trying to do it in the cold.

I'm trying to think of a fast way to do something.

You might use doublesided carpet tape to affix some insulation up there.

If you have some steel up there and a bunch of magnets, maybe you could do something that way.

If you run your tablesaw into some thick wood while your shop vac is running (on the same branch circuit), you may see the (incandescent) lights dim or even trip a breaker. Sometimes you have a couple of outlets on different branches so you can pull different equipment into different places to help get by for a while.

Usually, your panel has some unfilled spots where additional branches (and circuit breakers) can be added. You might want to "get ahead of the curve" by adding some outlets for your equipment. In that case, get 20A breakers and run the heavier wire for 20A service (it is yellow sheathing instead of white). Get the corresponding 20A receptables which have a little difference in where the prongs go in to remind you. Of course, you can label the faceplate as 20A.

I like having extension cords hanging down from the basement shop ceiling so I added outlets high. My shop area is small and I have machines on wheels that I roll in and out of places. Outlets that are behind benches and tool chests are difficult to use.

The only bathroom that I ever encountered with a septic smell was because the wax ring under the toilet was defective. They are cheap so just change that and reseat that toilet.

Then, figure out a way to reach that gas valve without stepping on the toilet. A folding step ladder for example.

This.

To my eyes, it was cut on an industrial shaper as part of a production door line.

This. Sometimes you can find a manufacturer or model on the valve by using your smartphone camera. Try several angles. Take those pictures with you to the stores.

Pex is relatively new so you have a good chance to find that valve still being sold.

Clean the valve seat (in the valve body) gently when you are reassembling. A small amount of faucet grease on the seal is a good idea but not required.

BTW: to avoid breaking a valve, when you start to turn, if it resists; turn just a little CCW, then back CW to tight, then back CCW a little more... Back and forth can break the corrosion up without breaking the stem. It usually works.

I'd go to harbor freight and pick some out. Almost anything other than rubber should last a few years.

Since this is exposed to Florida, I'd go cheap and just plan to change them every 5 years.

So many possibilities --

1. The pipes around the trap under your sink are partially blocked. Mine were full of cabbage once!

2. Debris has gotten passed the screen into the sump area, partially blocking flow.

3. The drain line from the dishwasher is plugged up with some gunk. I had that one my washer but it could happen to a DW.

4. The impeller on the pump motor is having some trouble. Either gunked up -or- the impeller has become loose on the motor shaft -or- motor isn't spinning full speed.

That would be my order of attack. For the last one, I take the dishwasher out and lay it face down on the floor on a blanket to access the equipment on the bottom.

I am in the midwest (MI) and it will be in the 70s this weekend.

Git'r'done