Looks good! I took out an entire wall in my kitchen too. A lot of these are common sense. When you go in the basement and determine your kitchen wall above is sitting on 3/4" subfloor between 2 floor joists running parallel with the joists, you know it's not load bearing, call me crazy.

Good info. In the automobile industry, some of these computer modules are throwing codes for slight changes in resistance, for a frayed wire, or 1 strand in a bundle coming loose, very very sensitive. Obviously lights and small electronics are not likely to cause an issue in a home, where loads are not resistance sensitive, but if you have small resistance changes all over your home, and throw a toaster into the mix, a washing machine, a space heater, and these small changes in resistance in my opinion, just are not worth the risk of something happening one day.

A large pack of wagos on Amazon from a container ship from who knows where may not have any certification. If you use wagos, I'd want them to be UL certified, a quality brand. I've seen some that are a stab type, some that have a lock down bar. The stab/push in type is just like back stabbing a receptacle. The lock down bar type seem to be better but pre-twisting wires and then locking down with a new wire nut is still the best way to maintain continuity and prevent a loss in amperage. If you connect a 12awg to a push in wago and have another 12awg wire continuing to a load, you may as well just use a 16awg wire to send to the load because that push in wago only has partial connection with the line. Think of it like this. Take a stranded wire and cut half the wires off on the stranded end and then twist it together with another stranded wire that has not been cut. The uncut wire will send the line power to the thinner cut wire and have a loss of power sending through the thinner wire. This is the issue with wagos, along with concerns over wires coming loose, wago falling apart, longevity, etc.

Pushing a 14awg wire into a small hole in the back of a receptacle. Continuity is maintained essentially via a spring clip, rather than bending the wire around the terminal screw which is the correct method. While somehow this system passes ul certification, it is not a good idea for many reasons, and should not be considered a permanent installation. Just like wagos. Wagos are great in a pinch, but not a substitute for a permanent connection, if you were to ask most certificated electricians.

And then back stab your receptacles from your wagos. That's easy fire recipe, no matches required! 🤣