1. Do you know what caused the settling in the first place, and have you remedied it? Otherwise, you'll be repeating the process.

2. How do plan to fish down through one hole, past any gravel/fill, under the pipe, and then back up through gravel/fill to a relatively tiny hole?

3. Is the pipe plastic? If it's cast iron, any strange stress could crack it. Or perhaps the pipe is already leaking somewhere causing the settling in the first place?

4. If your basement is unfinished and you have clear access to the concrete, you can do most of the work on your own. (I've replaced entire sections of sewer pipe.) Get a saw and a couple of diamond blades -- a thrift store circular saw is ideal. Cut a line either side of the trench you need and break out the concrete. Raise the pipe and pack fill under it. Add a little rebar to the edges of the trench and fill it while also bringing up the floor to the correct level.

But again -- if you haven't figured out why it happened in the first place, it's likely to happen again.

If your basement is damp, pretty much anything you put on the walls and/or floor is going to come off in short order.

If your yard grading is causing water to flow towards the house, you need to fix that by re-grading. The proper way to avoid dampness in the basement is to seal the exterior of the walls and make sure your drain tile is clear.

A stopgap solution might be some of the sealing products you see advertised for the interior walls, but I don't no anyone having any long-term success with that.

In Manitoba here. You won't have any rotting in winter as everything will be frozen.

I'm assuming you'll have at least three posts for the structure so there's no worry about it tipping side to side. That means you can put in concrete piles with brackets for the posts on top. That way your posts aren't in the soil or in the concrete. The metal brackets are set into the concrete before it cures, and then the posts are bolted to the brackets. Use pressure treated posts and make sure you use end cut treatment on the ends. If you want to be extra cautious, there are inverted cone-like things that will direct rainwater away from post and footing -- but I don't think that's really necessary.

Make sure you grade things so the centre of structure's "floor" is slightly higher than the edges to prevent water pooling.

Heat is energy, and energy moves from high energy areas to low energy areas.

If I ran a business that would benefit from awareness, I would get that number. People would call, even knowing the business owned it, and tell their friends about it.

Some fronds are still green!

Can you get into the attic and see the joists from above? If so, get a straight rod poking up through your test hole and take measurements from that, and then transfer the same measurements from the rod at ceiling level.

If the bedroom doesn't have an egress window, it's completely illegal.

FastLED makes it much easier. There are a lot of sketches you can load up and tweak, and the community support is awesome.

I would cut the drywall so that you can frame a proper opening -- a frame that will let you firmly attach the ceiling portions, with enough overlap to firmly fasten drywall to the inside of the opening.

THEN, use drywall J-channel around the perimeter of the opening and around the perimeter of the filler piece.

When you install the filler piece, you'll have nice straight edges and a tight professional looking seam. It can all be painted in the ceiling color and not that noticeable. If there ever are any plumbing problems, the middle panel can be cut out and removed and a new one made.

The OTHER OPTION would be to find some kind of ventilation grate the same size as, or bigger than the hole. Paint everything behind the grate black and install it. Everyone will assume it's supposed to be there.

All the above. The only thing I would add is to STRONGLY consider RGB's. That will let you change the colors. If you run it off an Arduino, you can even program custom colors, patterns, and cycles.

Check out r/fastled. I've used fastled to customize my Christmas lights.

Re: the kicker. My brother always used a homemade one for tightening up the carpet in his rentals. A 2x4 with a lot of screws poking part way out the bottom and some tapping with a mallet.

Google homemade carpet kicker images.

But it looks like you'll have to see if you can pry up the metal edge -- otherwise you'll have to stretch away from it.

Rumor has it, you can just pull the meter out like a giant plug while you do the work, and then some responsible homeowner could call the power company and say "I found this wire thing, like a seal, under my meter. my neighbor has one just like it but ON his meter. Should I be worried?"

Who knows? Maybe some vandal tore off the seal.

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Just kidding. Do it the right way.

It's not much better than a two-wheel tractor.

The fact that they IMMEDIATELY won a championship after booting you makes it sound like the correct decision.

Any order, as long as they're on my playLiszt.

Toy Story 5: The Forbidden Jacuzzi.

And increase the pressure in the garage forcing that air into the house.

I'd let you hang it on MY wall and load it with books.

As long as the 2x2 is attached to the shelf strongly enough, you'll be fine.

Two for (#) two!

You're actually keeping things cooler because you're reflecting a lot of the light before it comes through and shines on anything. You won't hit nearly high enough temperatures for a fire or any off-gassing.