As long as the wires are properly capped and in a junction box of some sort, with access, you're good. Ac over like below -- but they also come in plastic.

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The other option is to disconnect the wire at the other end -- assuming that connection box is accessible. That way you have a dead wire (nothing connected at either end) in the walls, which is no problem.

DERP! You are, of course, 100% correct!

Someone needs to add some square poops!

Well shoot! I've been putting the toilet paper rolls I bought on that. Now I feel foolish.

Same curiosity. My niece is an EMT and on many occasions has shown up at long-deceased cat or dog owners places. The dogs will most often lie quietly next to or close to the deceased, and the cats will start dining on the most accessible flesh, typically the face.

I've used an adjustable bit in my drill press and wood for a lot of adapters.

Okay. I was picturing wall-mounted outlets, not counter-mounted. Sounds like you have it all in hand.

I'm not sure why you want to add an additional junction box. Is the outlet not attached to one now?

https://www.offthegridnews.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/well-water-rich-400x324.jpg

Just confirm... you mean disconnect the wires from the outlet, cap the ends of the wire with, say, wire nuts, and then tuck them into the metal box during the renovation process?

That would be fine. It's exactly what the cabinet company installers would do. You're not modifying anything.

What you can't do -- as far as I know it's against code everywhere -- is have a junction box concealed/inaccessible behind anything. For example, if you decided you didn't want one of the outlets anymore, you're not allowed to remove the plug part, cap the wires, and put a cabinet over it.

Depending on your soil conditions, you can possibly notch the end of 4" pipe and twist/drill it through under the walk, sucking sand/gravel out with a shop vac.

It sounds like you have a poured sidewalk (otherwise you would have just lifted a block). Very likely it's reinforced with rebar and/or steel mesh. That means it'll bridge gaps well.

I'm guessing you're going to put in a 4", maybe 6" pipe to accommodate the downspout outflow. If you keep your excavation close to the width of the pipe, the concrete will bridge that without back filling so that should ease your mind a bit.

But I know where you're coming from... I feel the same way about these kind of projects.

Depending on your access, and how wide the sidewalk is, you could mix a "soupy" batch of Quikcrete and let it free flow in, in layers. If one end is higher than the other, you'd obviously start there and block the other end as the concrete rises.

If that's not possible, poke in as much coarse gravel as you can (jagged stuff, not pebbly). Then run water through with sand to fill up the gaps.

Circumference would be about 94" -- so a dozen to 15 would be plenty. I would calculate how many I wanted and even spacing for them (one per brick, two per brick, whatever) and then drill maybe half of them, light a fire and see how it burns.

On the other hand, you can't really have too many, so you can do them all at once if you want.

I'd get a small piece of plywood so you can lay the drill on it's side and just push, instead of having to hold it up.

I have the same style fire pit. A quick and easy solution is to get the drum from a washing machine and sit it in the middle. They're smaller than the inside diameter of the pit (usually) and very perforated. Air gets drawn down the sides of the fire pit and into the holes.

You can also borrow a hammer drill and buy a masonry bit. Drill holes through the blocks close to the bottom of the pit.

Quick thought. You're going to want to make sure the ground underneath the deck has a nice slope away from the house. Any dirt you pull for piles is dirt you can use for grading.

Normally, I would say go with a couple feet of gravel and deck blocks, but a 12' x 24' deck is a little large to lift and adjust he blocks after, if need be. If that happens, you'll be very unhappy with the time you "saved" during installation.

I'm guessing the original came with some kind of mounting clips that screwed to the wall first.

You could just use squares of plywood, built up to the same thickness of the inside of the clip, and then add a spacer the same thickness of the clip. fasten the plywood to the wall then hang the cabinet.

In the pictures, it also looks like there's a small notch for a similar clip -- there was probably some kind of modular system.

Serious question, Canadian here -- why are you concerned what plant your milk is processed in?

Drill a hole from the top edge down -- no one will ever see it. Drill down the same distance the screws will be from the edge, since they likely used the same dimensions all around. And if it's solid wood, don't bother with the anchors... they won't work.

Arduino, some very simple code, and a low dc to high ac relay.

Seriously -- find a nice loud speaker that will fit in the exposed end of the pipe. Block the exposed end to muffle the sound as much as possible.

If you have a mechanic's stethoscope, great! If not, a piece of steel (like rebar) will work by placing one end against your ear. Start near where you think the other end is, then move farther and closer to determine if you're getting nearer to the end of the pipe. If you're really lucky, you'll touch the pipe itself and get a solid sound. If not, you should be able to narrow the search area quite a bit.

I'm assuming you can't see which direction the pipe is going,or that it's curved -- otherwise you would have lined up a forty foot tape measure on the surface.

...and no pants!

Since you're in SK and I'm in MB, I'll stand on my roof this summer and take a look at your gazebo.

Have a good one!

I love the concept and the attempt. If you make a narrower adapter for a shop vac, you might be able to suck up some debris as you loosen it, if need be.

I would be thrilled to see this work for you. All the best!

The "best" approach is only an opinion -- mine in this case -- and not-best doesn't mean disaster. Stop stressing.

If the top of the concrete is above ground level, you're already off to a great start. If you want, you can get those inverted cone things, or install flashing around the bottom of the pole, about an inch off the concrete, so water is directed away from where the wood goes into the concrete. The gap allows air to circulate in that area.

Fence posts can last a long time, buried, in direct contact with soil -- so chances are your gazebo posts will outlive you. If you live long enough for the posts to rot, take care of it then and rejoice in the long life you lived!

NOT A SNUG FIT from top to bottom. You need an expansion gap at the bottom or top plate. Basement floors can move (especially a 2" floor if you're correct).

You can find better articles, but this is the first one I could pull up.

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As far as fastening, PL is fine. In fact if you ever try to remove it, you'll probably split the wood before the adhesive would ever let go. I prefer tapcons because I've been known to put a plate or two in the wrong place. :) Tapcons let me "adjust".