Span charts for 10 pounds per square foot. Not really walkable. And at 30 psf, the 2x4s disappear from the chart.

They're not joists. Joists are structural, 2x4s are not. It really is that simple. When running horizontally, there is no span chart for a 2x4.

Well, it said not to build the house on sand, but it didn't say anything about a truck, so.....

It would be the same, in that a 2x4 bottom chord of an engineered truss is not designed to carry any live load other than the roof load. A person hanging from a 2x4 risks breaking the 2x4, because by themselves, 2x4s are not structural.

Then don't hang anything more that the drywall that's already there. Engineered trusses are not designed to carry any floor load. They are designed only to carry the roof, and any expected snow load.

If you're considering modifying your trusses, you'll need to have a licensed engineer design the changes.

And they aren't joists. They're the bottom chord of the engineered trusses.

Seriously-- 2x4s aren't even included on span charts. Without a stamped engineer's drawing being followed, they don't carry weight when they're horizontal.

I can't tell from any of the pictures if your roof/ceiling system has 2x4 bottom chord or not. Again, if what's under the insulation is 2x4s, don't do this. Not with a 4x4, not at all.

Is this a first floor room in a two story? Is it a room just under the roof? What kind of framing is above the ceiling?

If the framing above the ceiling is the 2x4 bottom chord of a roof truss, don't do this. Just don't .

I've heard that there are some priests willing to prove that they are sufficient substitutes

Shellac is not among the acceptable answers. Skimcoating with drywall mud would work, but it would be very difficult because of paper shreds. As others have said, replace the drywall below the line that was the wainscoting.

Attach a straightedge to the wall to make the cut, so the new/old joint will be easier to match.

Do you have a wet saw? Have you ever participated in laying out, cutting, and laying natural stone?

As "tile" jobs go, natural slate can be among the most difficult.

Best wishes.

How does it look?

Weak and dangerous.

It must be breaktime at the county republican annual meeting.

45 years ago, I learned how to find the hot wire, using a neon-light circuit tester, and my finger. If the wire was the neutral, nothing. If it was hot, a dim glow. Hold one of the test leads to a wire, the other to my finger.

Stain it first, and stain the tongues. Expansion and contraction of the wood can remain unseen.

Instead of overcutting on the underside, undercut the length of each cut. Finish with a good quality handsaw.

As a child, one of the Xmas decorations that got brought out ever year was a bare branch that had been spray painted a bronze color. It had been trimmed so it would hang with one side pretty much flat to the wall, with (I think) three points of contact. My Dad had put pucture frame doodads into the branch at those points, and there were picture hooks on the wall. When the season was over, there was a framed picture that hung from one hook, and which covered the others.

If the fumes are flammable, look into explosion-proof fans, and don't vent it into the garage.

B/C sanded plywood.

Remove the mulch. Add gravel. Put your shed on the gravel.

Before you do anything...

Determine if this is a load bearing wall.

And find out where the studs are in relation to your proposed door.

Is your 24x76 wallspace already framed with wall framing, or is that just the dimension of a wall area that has no existing door, window, outlet, switch, or other obstruction?

Dual 3500# axles...means the total weight of the loaded trailer can be 7000#.

Don't go cheap on tires, you won't get the load rating you might neeed.

Perhaps it's a three pole switch.

Edited to add...and maybe previous owner effectively eliminated this switch from the system. Hence the light is on. OP need to find the other switch.

As for tiling under and behind.... yes it would probably work, but you'll need to learn about waterproofing under and behind the tile. Tile and grout are not waterproof (surprise!)

Look into a product called Kerdi from a company called Schluter. It's made for custom tile installations and shower pans. Can be done to fit any size or shape of area. Note that the floor drain you use must be their design also -- it gets water from under the tile as well as over, into the plumbing drain.

I had the oval ring on mine (1917 house, owned from '81 to '03). It used three anchor points to walls (tub sat in a corner). I was concerned that the fourth corner would sag, so I added a hanging post from the ceiling. All of these fittings were available by ordering together with the ring.

We then used (I think) 4 vinyl curtains, one of which closes across the front, the others were more or less stationary for the other three sides.