https://www.homedepot.com/b/Outdoors-Patio-Furniture-Hammocks-Hammock-Stands/Chair/N-5yc1vZbxb8Z1z17mfj

The more you spread out the weight the better. BUT if it's only for a chair...then I wouldn't even begin to worry about this.

As I said...work men are able to walk across single trusses without 'damaging' the structure or loading. Therefore YOU 'sitting in a chair' is the same 'live load' for the area.

I WOULD do as you initially planned and span 4-5 trusses...use a beam calculator to determine the amount of deflection you'll get at each distance and use spacers/shims so you get equal loading to each beam. I'm 220# and walk across standard roof trusses with wild abandon...on one foot supporting all my loading. As I suspect you're equally heavy - and adding for chair and support you still probably wouldn't break a truss...but swing loading is different than static loading. So yeah...span 4 trusses have the outside trusses with like 1/2" spacers and the two closer ones with 1/4" spacers - that'll help spread out the load. As it's a chair it's presumed you wouldn't be loading it at the same time workers are also 'up there' (either roof or attic). Edit: Actually use a beam calculator to determine the correct deflection distances from the load - don't just run with the 1/2 - 1/4 I plucked out of no where. The closer you position to other vertical members the better - as everything 'works together' as a system.

Of course a hammock stand to the floor would 'spread out' the weight better...as that's got plywood as a load distributor instead of drywall - so you get more spread out loading instead of point loading.

I suspected it was a hammock chair...but it's more fun to be 'kinky' about it...but have also heard silly things like someone wanting to suspend fish tanks because 'it would look cool' - without realizing how much a lot of water actually weighs (and bodies being mostly water).

Anywhere you can spread out the load and transfer it more evenly to the ground is ideal.

I still would consult an engineer...only because were you to damage the home...or structurally impact it you'd need to declare (full disclosure) that in a home sale and/or insurance claim. Stamped calcs would clear you of 'reckless damage' (and other legal/financial risks).

As I said another option would be to stiffen up the existing trusses...usually done with slapping 3/4" ply on either side and through bolting (sandwiching the member). Stiffening won't 'solve' all the problems but will help transfer the loads to the walls and limit deflection.

Common safety factor is 2x and always plan for the worst...ala the potential of two people climbing in...the nicer thing about a stand is it becomes the sacrificial lamb instead of your ceiling/roof structure. You're unlikely going to cave in a floor any more than you would when two people hug/stand in the same spot.

Still engineering calcs would solve a lot of problems. I'd call one and find out the fee for it - it may be way less than you're suspecting - and determine how best to proceed. If the calcs cost more than a stand, get a stand...or if that would ruin your aesthetic and/or not fit in the ceiling height.

Giving up isn't a 'solution'...impossible only happens when you give up. You've got this...some things are worth the effort. Good luck and you're welcome.

Edit: I was the one that suggested transferring loading to the floor btw.

It's your house...you can do as you please.

But this is wrong...dangerous, and foolish. No disrespect intended.

That roof structure was designed to do its name "ROOF STRUCTURE" - ala hold up the roof...the roofing, the insulation, etc. and carry those loads over to load bearing walls. That's called 'dead load'.

Now anyone with half a brain knows that service people walk across those all day long...that's called live load.

Generally some safety factor is used because people do stupid things in homes...but 'stacking weight' equivalent to two people at a point load is hazardous.

All beams deflect under load...so if you 'attempt' this recognize that your beams will deflect and apply forces greatest at the point of the load...the idea to spread the weight out across trusses is a prudent one (albeit foolhardy) - whatever beam you select it will apply the most force to the two closest and the least farther away. Which means a lot of loading at two points NOT DESIGNED to carry those loads.

Among other loads...are 'new roofing' (often 2nd layers of roofing are laid atop the old) - perhaps you already have tile...or composite...really irrelevant to additional loads only if a 'change' were to take place...also snow/ice/water loading...as well as wind and seismic loading.

So while it may 'hold it' it may not hold it under ALL situations and scenarios for which the structure was designed to perform...ala NOT COLLAPSE ON YOU when the 'weird' happens...such as some fatter service techs walking around...while there's snow/ice on the roof AND a car just ran into the building. So adding another 550-600 pounds (don't forget the members and attachment materials all add weight too)...or when an earthquake happens...or high winds.

Someone touched on in the comments the fact of the potential of a 'swinging load'...which is SIGNIFICANTLY greater than static loads.

MY ADVICE is to consult a STRUCTUAL ENGINEER - some calculations are beyond the 'simple calculators' which can be found online...there's more to structural engineering than just a 'beam loading calc'.

Edit: To include: That even your wall cladding (ala drywall or plaster) could also crack...not only do beams deflect but so do the walls that are under those roof pressures. Drywall isn't flexible...nor is plaster...so you may also have surface problems to deal with.

Edit2: I suspect you're wanting to hang a person...I hope in some sort of romantic/intimate manner and not permanently. I would recommend you transfer loads to the floor. As you didn't say what you'd like to hang...there are few things 350ish pounds that I can surmise beyond 'a person' (bsdm I presume). Reading comments you're on the 2nd floor with this weight...which adds to the center of gravity situations. You can reinforce the trusses too...remembering that the more cross sectional area the 'stronger' your reinforcing becomes. Best would be to calculate the deflection and have spacers on the trusses to allow for uniform loading with deflection. Without knowing what you're hanging - and for how long would determine how best to plan...a 'person' wouldn't be full time loading (I hope not anyway) - but still 'weird stuff happens' at unusual and unplanned moments. Also to consider...that home is designed to 'stay up' (for as long as it can) during a fire event...where loading would worsen that situation.

Edit3: A typical house is designed to carry 40 psf (pounds per square feet) live load...but that's on the floor. I believe rooves are 10 psf - but don't quote me...and WHY you should consult a structural engineer.

What it 'means' I'm uncertain.
To me, it's her way of saying "I LOVE YOU".
I believe it's in reference to a song.
It's about a girl picking flowers dreaming of the one she loves.

https://www.answers.com/Q/Where_did_the_expression_daisies_don't_tell_come_from

Daisies Won't Tell

Anita Owen Document Type Score

Publication Date 1908

Comments MacIntosh Collection

New York : Jerome H. Remick & Co., c1908.

Some of these resources may contain offensive language or negative stereotypes. Such materials should be seen in the context of the time period and as a reflection of attitudes of the time. The items are part of the historical record, and do not represent the views of the library or the institution.

Lyrics [Verse 1]
There’s a sweet old story
You have heard before
Here among the daisies
Let me tell it o’er;
Only say you love me,
For I love you well,
Answer with a kiss, dear,
Daises never tell.

[Refrain]
Daisies won’t tell, dear,
Come kiss me do,
Tell me you love me,
Say you’ll be true,
And I will promise
Always to be
Tender and faithful,
Sweetheart, to thee

[Verse 2]
In a dream I fancied
You were by my side.
While I gathered daisies
One long chain you tied,
‘Round us both I wound it,
Close I held you, too,
Daisies never tell, dear,
Make that dream come true.

[Chorus]

Owen, Anita, "Daisies Won't Tell" (1908). Historic Sheet Music Collection. 1349.
https://digitalcommons.conncoll.edu/sheetmusic/1349

Since July 19, 2016

PLUMX METRICS SHARE The views expressed in this paper are solely those of the author.

Other reading/research here too. https://www.answers.com/Q/Where_did_the_expression_daisies_don't_tell_come_from

If it's only leaking after flushing it's a crack in the rim wash channel(s). Any crack will get worse with heat/cooling expansion/contraction. Eventually it'll grow...even if you use adhesive or sealant. You may be able to stop a growing crack by drilling holes at either end...but makes the risks of making the situation worse kind of high. I'm sure you're following the good/prudent advice of others saying replace replace replace! Good luck.

Do you put plumbers putty on rain downspouts, or roofing tiles? Plumbing traps are designed to permit water to flow past...but whether they're sealed during a clog you'll have to consider. Drains don't clog much...and when they do there's not often much static head of water weight - provided all orings or gaskets are in good condition that's all you should need...but I cannot see your trap/pipes - you say pvc cement so they're white/grey plastic...or possibly abs...you should absolutely NOT cement them...as that defeats the purpose of being able to easily disassemble. The rubber gaskets should maintain the seal provided your alignments are good. The goal is to get the gaskets to do the proper sealing.

A speaker works by shoving air forward...active noise cancellation works by sucking in the diaphragm at the same moment the 'force' of outward air to 'suck in' the energy. Microphones and knowing the speed that sound travels is what allows the noise cancellation circuitry to know exactly when to provide that 'hollow' space to cancel the noise.

No noise cancelling headphone cancels deeper frequencies as well as higher ones...the bigger the diaphragm the lower the frequency you can 'catch'. Most noise cancelling starts with passive noise cancelling - which is a fancy word for 'plugging your ears' - ala foam/vinyl/leather to block the sound from getting in. In smaller air buds you're automatically getting passive noise cancelling just by shoving them in your ears. Also your ears can only 'hear' the most powerful push...your eardrum is a diaphragm too. But it can only 'hear' the loudest thing at any given time. Many active headphones just produce a white noise 'hiss' which is amazingly effective at just drowning out the randomness of noise...and your brain just loves it as it only takes a few minutes for your brain to stop hearing that hiss/hizz noise.

Edit: Consider stereo systems...the bigger the speaker the deeper the bass. No one has 'tweeters' thumping the bass. And in ear phones have tricks to increase the bass - but the bigger the driver the better the bass sound you can get.

based on what you've said here I'd check to confirm the overflow tube isn't cracked. As you've removed the rim holes (bowl wash) hose AND water still is continually draining then logic dictates the pipe that separates the tank from the rim holes is cracked.

I hear that. But the first link was wrong - felt it needed correction. Sadly that ana-white site only has naked shelving...as far as I saw anyway.

> anawhite.com

https://www.ana-white.com/

So your best bet is examining the attachment at the leg and table interface. It was 'strong' once...and could be made to be so again. Reinforcement inside the table could solve the problem. But as you only provided photos of the exterior hard to determine.

The fact that it's up against a wall...presumably 'permanently' you do have the option to attach the table itself to the wall. This would transfer some/most pushing force into the wall instead of the legs.

Reinforcing the legs could just require gussets. Imagine a flat piece of wood triangular shaped going from leg to table. This would allow the table to be used as normal and spread out the loads applied due to leverage.

For 'x bracing' you've got to make some decisions. You can 'box' the legs by using horizontal devices across the floor - but you already addressed this in another comment.

For decisions do you remain 'in tension' or attempt to solve both compression and tension? In tension means x bracing...which can be done with wire and/or flat metal strips. They'll resist pulling but not pressing thus requiring an X. They don't necessarily have to go all the way down either - but the height you're at any crossing elements will obstruct seated usage - and possibly seat storage. But wire cross bracing can be as simple as screw in eyelets and wire with wrapped ends - or as complex as wire rope with thimbles and wire rope clips.

If you can manage legs in the center across each long end that would also transfer the push/pull energy differently.

You could also criss cross from diagonal legs. It would make the underside look cluttered but would be less disruptive to seating and storage use - this still would require the wall side legs to be criss crossed laterally too.

The best solutions will involve forces being applied to screws in sheer and not tension. Depending on the leg material you could cross with strips of metal from bottom flat (underside) of leg to the opposite.

But seems like your wisest solution would be to replace the legs - which you're seemingly wanting to lean toward anyway.

Really this boils down to what you wish to spend and how aesthetic you want it to look.

You could also pocket hole screw holes into the legs and add hard wood 'washers' inside the table - going through the particle board and into the chunk of hardwood/washer (with glue) - but as I can't see the inside no way to see how easy/economical that would be.

Also - for whatever you choose to do...start with cardboard and fiddle with the shape referencing from leg to underside. Angles aren't impossible to work with...and the curved surface means either grinding/filing a convex for greater glue surface or going with attachments with less glue interfacing.

That's what I said. It's up to him to determine how best to do that.

Gate needs a 'slam stopper'. Someone suggested a door stop at the bottom (trip hazard) - which would stop some of the force of closing.

What you need is angle or some vertical strip that the gate arrests closure against...and the only force the latch has to deal with is the impact of the bar itself, rather than arresting the momentum of the weight of the gate (slammed, wind, or just spring/weight closure)...it's a lot of leverage that gets applied over and over.

Once you deal with stopping the gate in other ways re-securing the latch is easy enough.

Edit: other solutions are:

Soft closer for the gate. They make hydraulic and spring closers that close the gate more slowly. This can also be as simple as a string connected to the gate and the opposite side with a weight in the middle.

Depending on aesthetics it could be as simple as a chunk of wood between wall and the latch bar. You'd need to use fasteners into better attachment points - but there is likely only 1 stud in there (which you've hit with the farther 2 screws presently). This horizontal wood would help with the problem...but not really 'solve' it...as the screws are resisting the force in tension - and screws work best in sheer. You'd also need a chunk the same thickness at the gate latch to keep the gate at the same closed position.

The surfacing is likely ~3/4-5/8" thick...a better latch bar with a longer attachment plate would help - but you still have the problem with screws needing to 'grab' something. There are better fasteners - such as metal 'screw in style' drywall auger type attachments. Also butterfly clips would be good too - except that at the end of the stucco - as you already know - nothing out there to grab on to. But always if the force is applied in tension you'll just delay the problem - which is why I suggested a slam stopper. Typically this would be a 1x1-1/2 angle with the short end sticking out and the screws penetrating deep enough to embed into the stud - the longer the angle and the more screws the more the energy of the gate closing would be spread out.

If you're willing to move the gate in farther (away from camera location) you could just have a latch coming straight out the wall.

But really...as this is inside - I think using 'standard' gate hardware isn't the right solution. I'd look into other forms of 'latching'...and I suspect the goal is to keep either kids or animals out of the area...does it need latching at all?

No problem.

The only other 'future suggestion' I have is to look into cable/turnbuckle cross bracing.

As wood expands and contracts eventually all fasteners loosen. A cable cross bracing pulling in tension (which usually means you need X bracing as opposed to / bracing) can be a good long term solution. While it will expand and contract with temperature changes it won't with moisture changes...and as it's a turnbuckle it's much easier to tension or decrease as conditions/seasons change.

You're welcome, and be well. Keep building!

Edit: On the gate...as opposed to a wood 2x4 diagonal.

I think you did a good job.

I like how you did the concrete embeds with sloped water shedding angles. Good choice.

If I were to critique anything (sorry, just my nature) - I would recommend you run a string line instead of using a level. Differences in heights can be seen easily (at least by me) in the top of the fence. The bottom looks straight but the tops vary by fractions of inches. Best to use string lines to keep things straight as opposed to 'level'. Taking a step back to observe the 'overall scene' helps too. Often it's better aesthetically to match existing than to 'do it right'.

If it bothers you with the difference between black decorative features and silver structural ones, you could hit those with black to match and/or painted wood color to match.

I'd also recommend a front side catch release (either string/cord)...someday your arms will be full and you'll be bothered how difficult to open the gate from the front side.

The only other appearance thing I'd critique is: The public side of the fence isn't 'flat'. The gate differs from the post and the pickets on the framed side are inset from the post as well. Perhaps thin spacers to keep everything flat on front would be helpful? Or perhaps a thinner piece on the post? That post just looks odd jutting out so proudly.

Lastly...something that is common is called a 'slam board' (that's what we call them) - it's where the gate slams against a piece of wood as opposed to depending wholly on the catch to stop the gate's momentum. It's a lot of force applied to a small area...and over time, expansion and contraction will loosen hardware.

I feel you should be very pleased with your results. They're very good for a first build.

If you ever do build another one...remember humans generally like 'straight lines' in non-organic designs and vastly admire 'symmetry' (like evenly spaced screws and screws in perfect alignment). There is nothing here in this build you should be ashamed of it's a nice build with good materials and wise component choices.

I don't wish to point out any other observations because I feel you'd think I was being overly critical! Ultimately, a fence needs to keep out what you want...or keep in what you want (whether that be people, animals, or visibility) - and you've managed all that. As well as have the option of adding security. Minimally I'd put in some sort of gate closing arrestor - as I believe that will be your first failure point).

Thank you for sharing this build. I don't mean for my eyes to see things or share them with you in a disparaging manner. This looks much better than my first attempt at a build!

Tell him to hold on to the end and let the weight of the tape pull out. Of course you'll have to release the end...which is bad for the tape...but sounds like it may not survive that long anyway. It's also kind of fun to watch the tape do a cartwheel when all that tape comes flying back in.

Okay...the 'long' answer: Water comes from many sources. I'll run down the most common: Plumbing leak - if this is a single family home structure that's easy enough to determine whether applicable - I cannot 'see' your place so you'll have to determine that.

You don't indicate whether this is a condo (multi-floor structure), a multi-story structure of any kind, a duplex, etc.

You cannot tell just by 'looking' it takes some sleuthing - it's a kitchen which means it has many water source potentials. Most commonly it's a roof flashing where a sink vent, stove exhaust, or some other utility penetration (like a hot water heater exhaust). But could also be a water pipe, an icemaker pipe, heating/cooling drain pan.

You say there's 'no space' up there - so that tends to rule out HVAC pan/stuff. But the other elements are possibilities - as are adjacent room services (bath, shower, water closet, laundry room).

Just because it stopped doesn't necessarily mean it's a roofing/weather problem - but most likely.

As the water built up above the ceiling it eventually saturated and perforated enough to have water evidence inside the space. Prior it was contained above, and building up a volume of water. When you poked it drained out a majority of the 'reserves' - it still may be leaking from any source...just not enough for it to be leaking through the roof. It could still be soaking into other materials. You've just changed the water path. When you poke a hole you potentially create a 'mountain' on the other side - where the water cannot continue to leak out of the screwdriver poke through spot...and may be saturating/finding another location - gravity always working on the water.

I cannot see your roof...but if it is a roof leak - these are usually pretty small. Buildings expand and contract - different elements at different speeds/distances. Thus the problem is usually at a penetration.

Your roof consists (most likely) of 3 layers...the upper protective/sun/water layer - this could be tile, shingles, rubber, tar rolled - lots of options here. Below that you have the vapor barrier or tar paper...and below that the roof sheathing (plywood most commonly).

Water, mostly wants to go 'down'...as many have said it can leak in one spot and travel along a pipe, conduit or rafter through adhesion/surface tension, and migrate to a spot where it has to drip down...and eventually start to puddle.

You cannot assume it's just the roof from what you've said - you'll have to get up there and find out the reason.

I'm assuming your home is a flat roof with nothing above it (I would hope you'd be smart enough to share/consider other leak sources - like an adjacent tenants toilet or piping...so I'll assume this is 'your house' and a single family dwelling just without an attic. No attic does make things harder.

If you're certain you've located the leak - many posts here have discussed how to locate and how to remedy - so I'll not waste their efforts repeating.

As for insurance - they're always looking for a reason to say "NO" or an avenue to decrease their obligation. It's through documentation you prove this later - and be certain your claim adjuster and EVERYONE knows you're collecting evidence - and retaining it. Your policy either covers this event, or it does not - I cannot answer that. If it does cover it they'll be looking for a way to save money or pay nothing. Showing good faith IMMEDIATE effort to remedy goes a lot farther than 'doing the wrong thing' - But wrong efforts which further cause damage could be held against you. The sooner you can get professionals out there - PAID AND UNDER CONTRACT the better. Just having them show up and review does show good faith but that company isn't responsible until you engage them through payment/writing.

Consider the potential for further harm to the structure and take steps to remedy that. That is what 'they' will use against you. Client learned of leak and DID NOTHING ABOUT IT for X # of days. That's wording that will look bad for you. You saying: I discovered the leak and 20 minutes later we sourced the location and put up pots/pans or hit it with silicone and called professionals would look great for your side. Chances are though, if you're covered the insurance will just pay without incident...these stories of them not paying usually has some mitigating factor or the 'real story' that wasn't told. Like a roof that knowingly leaked for months.

Anyway water leaks aren't rare. It could be anything from blown water in/under tiling...to ripped up shingles due to wind/animal...to a very old roof needing replacement...or something as small as a TINY crack that occurred at a roof vent...and is rolling down the roof vent to a collection spot, collected and eventually showed up inside at the kitchen.

I don't know your age, ability, tools on hand, or mechanical capabilities so I'll not 'instruct' you to do anything. Mostly if you can locate the leak caulking is enough to solve the problem for the short term until pro's can come fully remedy. If it's a leak that you cannot spot tarping the whole roof may be needed. Again, too many complexities there for a 'simple discussion' on that. Tarps also leak...and the potential for blown in water still exists. As does rooves are large areas where tarps are big and heavy. And without knowing the size, and weight abilities of your roof I'm not going to advise you to go up there. If you do choose to do that, be safe...use proper safety gear. And remember, that tarps work like shingles, remember to start at the bottom and leave plenty of overlap if you need multiple tarps.

I don't know the 'strength' of your roof...or how long this saturation has happened. Roof sheathing is very strong even when wet...but long term rotting can lead to structural failures and walking on a roof can considerably further damage a poor situation. Make sure as much of your inspection happens from below prior to you considering going on the roof. For all I know you're 72 years old and don't even belong in the category of even pulling out a ladder.

So don't assume it's 'rain' and don't assume that just because it 'stopped' it's because it's not raining. The hole - as many have said - or the problem will NOT FIX itself. Once the liquid barrier is broken it'll keep leaking until the water source is removed.

For all I know you've got a poorly insulated line up there and you're getting condensation drips - thats where warm/moist air hits a cool surface like water drops on the outside of a cool drink. Ultimately there's water where you don't want it coming out and it won't 'fix' itself without you causing that to happen. If it's a leaking water pipe just create some runoff path - something as easy as a string tied for the water to follow is enough. If it's a pressurized line that you can shut off - do so and turn it on as needed to minimize downtime leaking. If it's a line that can be unused (such as an ice maker feed) - just suffer without it for a while.

As you said there's no space - I'll assume you know what you're talking about. But common leaks are from pans, drain lines, or overflow lines from HVAC units. There's also a secondary pan below the unit that can also leak. Where I live/work I hear people all the time say 'we do not have an attic' - but there is a crawlspace. To them attic means something they can climb up into and store stuff via a ladder or stairs. If it's just 'roof above' as you say it makes tracking down the leak source easier - or harder depending on viewing angles available. Ultimately you have to find the leak and plug it and determine how best to proceed depending on what is leaking, how, and why. Good luck.