Mount your side splashes as normal. Move the vanity flush with one of the sidesplashes. Get a another length of sidesplash and mount it horizontally like a little raised shelf you can put your toothpaste, cologne, liquid soap bottle, etc out of the way... like it was intentional so you can clean the vanity top without having to move everything. The gap below the shelf will be visible if the face of the vanity is a solid cabinet. If it's a vanity with legs like a table then the gap won't really stand out.

For the gap against the back wall and the vanity will the the hardest to make look good.

Get some project board and cut the width of the gap and length of the front side of the cabinet. Paint it the color of the cabinet or wall color.

Dry fit your ptrap before deciding which side to put the extra sidesplash piece, might be easier to connect with the vanity shifted right or left. If you have a medicine cabinet on one side, put the extra piece on that side.

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Nah. Visualized it and looks weird, both with sidesplash mounted to wall or mounted to flush with vanity.

Vanities and vanity tops can be sold separate. Hold out for finding a top that'll fit that 63" or have a custom counter company cut you one to size and back and side backsplashes along with cutting holes for faucet and drop in sink. Browse their remnants... a jumbo slab measures 63" on its side.

just mount the headboard to the wall. also totally gets rid of that annoying headboard shimmy and banging against the wall when getting your freak on.

or monostable 555

Move wire to side of joist and use wire U-clips every 4 feet along the length of the wire to tack the wire *at least* 1 1/2" from the bottom of the joists.

Use furring strips perpendicular to joists to make drywalling easier. Will make straight lines for you to screw drywall to and give you a 3" width instead of trying to screw two meeting edges of drywall within the 1 1/2" width of your joist which may be bent/flexed and no longer perfectly straight.

Use correct length of drywall screws so there's no penetration (thickness of furring strip + thickness of drywall)

pretty sure you drew your diagram wrong so not even addressing that diagram.

if someone called me on the phone and asked, I'd say "wire the outlet to the white, black, and neutral of the light fixture"15A circuit you will have 14/2 or 12/2 wire, you must use the same gauge at what's currently used20A circuit will have 12/2 wire

if by any chance any of the wire has a red, it's 12/3 or 14/3 so the above wouldn't be correct. Won't elaborate on that since you haven't mentioned red wire.

>The power does NOT go to the light then to the switch. That would be a code violation. You would never be able to disconnect the power to the light.

Actually you can start with line power at the fixture. And be code compliant
At fixture's box:
Line1 black -> black of 14/3
Neutral white -> white of 14/3
Ground -> ground of 14/3

This 14/3 goes to switch box
Ground the switch, connect black and red to each leg of switch
Cap the neutral if not needed (ie: illuminated switch)

Back at fixture box, connect RED, WHITE, and GROUND to light fixture

Simple. Toss the light and get a flush mount LED light bar. The mounting bracket should cover up that hole.

Get this https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-36-in-x-3-4-in-x-1-16-in-Aluminum-Square-Tube-801287/204274003 3/4" Internet SKU 204274003

and this

https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-16-in-x-1-2-in-x-36-in-Plain-Steel-Square-Tube-801267/204225723 1/2" Internet SKU 204225723

Aluminum tube is the hangar, the smaller steel tube fits inside as the "drawer slide". Set depth on table saw to cut a channel centerline the full length. Drill 4 holes on the opposite side to attach under cabinet.

Drawer. Drill holes along the length for tool hanging hooks (machine thread). Use a straight rod with a nut (for hooks) hotglued to rod to fish into the tube so you can thread the hook to the nut. Use RED loctite on nut and hook threads to allow it to swivel but never unthread.

Now you have a sturdy rail that slides in and out and removable. Go to larger size tubes if you need to hang heavier stuff.

Larger outer tube should be aluminum since you can cut it with a wood blade on table saw and not mess up the blade. You can shift the fence to make the groove wide enough for the bolts to slide easily in the gap.

IKEA uses the METRIC sizes, not the standard SAE sized allen keys. Likely 5mm or 6mm, I have never seen 8mm or larger for IKEA furniture.

And next time you buy IKEA furniture, tape the included allen key hidden away underneath the furniture where you can find it later!

I think the GFCI is working properly, esp since you said you had no problems before with other equipment plugged in.
A long string of christmas lights, CHEAPLY MADE, has dozens of open air exposure to the conductors, place these exposures next to your home, add moisture from the air, you have a tripping GFCI. Wrapping lights around a tree would be especially prone to trip a GFCI.

Connect your lights to a non GFCI outlet using an extension cord. You're not going to be touching the lights while they are plugged in, anyway.

Unless you've already stapled the lights in place, you can put the string of lights in a plastic garbage bag, the GFCI should no longer trip. Indicating your lights are the problem, not the outlet.

I'm in GA, no, not in our climate zone it is not required.
If you have housewrap under your siding, you already have a Class III vapor retarder installed in the optimum location - outside of the exterior wall.

The correct term is vapor retarder, a vapor barrier is specifically a Class I vapor retarder which blocks nearly all water vapor. You should ignore all posts which mention 'vapor barrier' instead of 'vapor retarder'. There are only a couple of posts which correctly use the term 'retarder'

In AL you can use rockwool, unfaced fiberglass, or kraft faced fiberglass with kraft paper facing exterior.

Adding a vapor retarder is not a fix for leaking/torn/improperly installed homewrap.