trash_recycle

trash_recycle t1_iqt7b0n wrote

Reply to comment by pm_me_your_lub in Leaky ceiling, poked a hole in the ceiling with a screwdriver, and after 15 minutes the dripping stopped. What's going on? by UnofficialSlimShady

To be fair... I have seen some unique situations where the water intrudes, swells the framing and sheeting materials to the point where no new water intrudes. But that scenario still leads to long term issues so some kind of long term solution will be needed.

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trash_recycle t1_iqt6wi4 wrote

Reply to comment by UnofficialSlimShady in Leaky ceiling, poked a hole in the ceiling with a screwdriver, and after 15 minutes the dripping stopped. What's going on? by UnofficialSlimShady

Pull out any accessible wet insulation that you find, it's basically a sponge holding moisture. Anything you can do to get airflow onto the wet surfaces. If you see microbial growth spray it with a disinfectant. Google the bleach to water ratio if you don't have access to "ready to use" antimicrobial products.

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trash_recycle t1_iqt615n wrote

Reply to comment by rivalarrival in Leaky ceiling, poked a hole in the ceiling with a screwdriver, and after 15 minutes the dripping stopped. What's going on? by UnofficialSlimShady

Depending on your insurance carrier, your policy and possibly your state, improperly fastening boards via penetrations (screws and nails) can lead to a denial in insurance coverage. Not to mention additional water intrusions. An alternative to this is to lay the tarps over the peak as described but instead of fastening through the roof roll 2x4s in the perimeter of the tarp, fasten additional 2x4s to the wrapped 2x4s. This sandwich the tarp between the boards and is often enough weight on its own to secure the tarps.

In the event of the possibility of heavy wind or additional security for the tarp you'll need sand bags and ropes. Place sand bags on key points on the tarp along the perimeter and criss-cross ropes over the ridge across to the opposite side of the structure and secure them to the ground via additional sandbags, poles, trees.

This method is more difficult to do and significantly more in material costs, but insures good coverage with no new potential for water intrusion via anchors. Also by not anchoring into the roof your potential for the insurance company to say "you negligently caused additional damages" is reduced.

If you know you don't have coverage or a viable claim, use the anchor method above and a tube or two of Henry's roof patch.

I've got 11 years in emergency property restoration (think ServPro/Belfor). Started using this method after SafCo and American Family denied coverage to a handful of our customers during a particularly bad storm and we ended up having to tear off and reroof one side of a customers home.

Edit: clarification for securing tarp to the ground.

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