This article says you shouldn't https://alittlediy.com/how-to-self-level-a-painted-concrete-basement-floor/#:~:text=The%20first%20step%20was%20to,then%20use%20self%20leveling%20compound.

I painted my concrete basement floor as part of a finished basement reno about 10 yrs ago. I used self leveler concrete to smooth out shallow dips and a spot where we cut the slab to move a pipe. For final finish before paint I rented a floor grinder and went over the entire surface to smooth out the small features and prep it to take the paint. Its a very dusty process but might be a better way to prep your floor and get rid of the paint simultaneously.

This is the smart move if you want a lasting fix.

Most paints are intentionally made to be resist staining and penetration. OP is likely going to see chipping or other issues in thin areas. Maybe not right away, but it won't last as long as grinding down to clean concrete.

My husband used to lay tile. You can find a product that you put on before the self leveler, kind of like a primer. Look into aqua d or Red guard. The added benefit is if you run them a couple inches up the side of the walls they provide an excellent water barrier for any future leaks you have.

Be prepared depending on the size of your space for multiple expensive 5 gallon buckets (unless you choose to strip, but I would still use it). Similarly, with the self-leveler you're going to find that it requires a lot more than you would imagine to get yourself a nice level floor. But it will be worth it.

Not those products,they are waterproofing/crack isolation membranes not primers.

They do sell and recommend a latex primer.to use under SLU.

The paint should be ground off or hit and missed at minimum

I did this years ago. The self-levelling mortar won't stick to paint. Use a diamond grinder with dust extraction and a proper respirator. The dust probably contains lead

Strip it. You are better off doing a mechanical strip with either a sand blaster or grinder. Scarification will give the primer and self level more surface area to bite.

You need to remove the paint mechanically by means of a grinder. The self lever will need a primer after the concrete is clean and scarified. Look into uzin nc 150, or laticrete nxt. Read the instructions throughly. This is an expensive process to do correctly. It's cheaper to have a professional do this than it is to mess up on your own than call in the pro

Best: grind, apply epoxy moisture barrier at 14 mils, apply primer, then self leveler

Ok but lazier and will probably work if you don’t have moisture issues, or if there’s a vapor barrier under the basement slab: apply primer and then SL

Cut all the corners but will probably work if you don’t have moisture issues or landscape drainage issues: apply SL and call it good

If you intend to finish the basement or make it a living space you should absolutely do the first route.

To piggyback this, I just had to grind down 12 sqft of ruined thinset off of a brand new shower pan and setting up a box fan pointed outside a window and closing the door behind me took care of 99% of the dust leaving the bathroom.

I had to wipe down the bathroom sink and vanity but the negative airflow saved the rest of the house from a LOT of dust.

Thanks for the info! There is a French drain and sump pump already installed throughout the perimeter so luckily no moisture issues (knock on wood).

I think for now the goal is to just have a flat concrete surface for the floor.

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I don’t think this was the question OP was asking. They’re asking about putting self leveler OVER a painted floor and if there would be adhesion issues of the self leveler to the painted surface.

True, but this comment implies YES (there will be) by suggesting an alternate method to quickly prep the existing surface.

Rent a grinder with a vacuum. Most of the big rental companies have them. Depending on how bad the floor is you may not need leveler when you are done.