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galloping_skeptic t1_j245cjs wrote

So I am assuming that your current set up is using the 2 existing holes for the faucet and a spray nozzle?

We solved the problem a different way. We bought a faucet that pulls out to also be a spray head which freed up one of the existing holes for the RO water spigot.

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[deleted] OP t1_j24k42q wrote

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nycola t1_j25eo9m wrote

My uncle was a plumber and installed probably thousands of garbage disposals in his lifetime. He said he always recommended to customers that they install the switch under the cabinet to make it next to impossible to turn on the disposal with your hand in the sink.

It sounds trivial, but when he first started out in the business that wisdom was passed down by his boss who saw the aftermath of a woman who had her hand down the drain trying to pull something out and absentmindedly started the disposal.

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timtucker_com t1_j25r63i wrote

For much the same reason, we put in a momentary contact switch on the wall.

It's close enough that you can reach it while standing at the sink, but far enough that there's little to no chance of bumping it on accident and it would be awkward to reach the switch with one hand while your other hand is in the sink.

To make it easier to distinguish, it's also a different color than the rest of the switches in the kitchen (grey instead of white).

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OutOfStamina t1_j25v8xq wrote

I'm pretty glad you posted this. It meant the amount of time I thought "yeah, i should move the switch to above the counter!!" lasted only about 20 seconds.

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galloping_skeptic t1_j24ncww wrote

Yeah fair enough. I just thought I'd (try to) offer an alternative way to look at the problem. Good luck to you. I'd love to see a follow up post on how you pull it off.

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dmethvin t1_j250byj wrote

If your kitchen was remodeled in the past, there's a good chance that the disposal switch was on the wall. Those buttons in the sink are pressure activated but depend on an always-live outlet under the sink. So if there is a nearby electrical box on the backsplash it probably has the power feed for the disposal that has been wire-nutted together to remove the switch, and you could put the switch back there.

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Abrham_Smith t1_j25vf22 wrote

Recently bought a wireless button for my garbage disposal. Best thing I ever did. Might be an option for you. Then you won't have to drill.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PQQ1DDG/

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bl0rq t1_j26a1mi wrote

I have a plug similar to this but on a light. It comes on randomly. Not often but a few times a year. Hopefully this one doesn't have that "feature"!

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AlternativePool5618 t1_j27ob9z wrote

Sweet! The kids can steal the remote and turn on the disposal at any random time.

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OutOfStamina t1_j25vr33 wrote

>I suppose I could move the garbage disposal button to under the cabinet but honestly I'd rather keep it where it is and drill a new hole.

I know someone else replied this, but it's safer for that switch to live below the cabinet. Mine's easy to get to, you gotta open the door, and it's a standard room style switch.

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No_Pomegranate2580 t1_j259eqx wrote

Is there any way to install a disposal switch above the sink and fish some wire though the wall behind the sink? That might be easier than drill the hole.

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lemonylol t1_j2513we wrote

You should be able to cut a hole through the flange with the right hole saw as well no?

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PrincePeasant t1_j249xhn wrote

We did the same, and put the vacuum switch for the garbage disposal inside the cabinet, under the sink (hole for it was on the old sink).

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WittyMonikerGoesHere t1_j24q0dz wrote

Drilling a hole in the flange won't cause any structural issues in the sink, if that's what you're asking.

If it wasn't undermount, I'd recommend releasing the sink and popping the silicone, then putting a block between them to drill the first hole, but that's a much bigger deal to do with an undermount sink.

What you're suggesting is probably your best option, but understand that there's a good chance your diamond bit will be headed for the garbage as soon as it touches the steel.

If it's only a half inch hole, a hole saw may not be the best choice. I'd probably drill the steel stepping up to ½ with carbide drop points.

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multimetier t1_j25ab4b wrote

I would also use a drill bit for steel rather than the holesaw, but I wouldn't bother to step up the bits. Easier to just start with the desired size bit, as wear isn't issue with one hole thru sheetmetal. That lets you drill one hole and you're done.

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asjtj t1_j24ovk1 wrote

If the sink is stainless steel, it will be difficult. Stainless is very hard to drill through with normal steel hole saws.

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[deleted] OP t1_j24q3tj wrote

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lemonylol t1_j251tc2 wrote

Use a drill bit and go through the center of the premade hole, then from the top align the drill bit in the center of the hole saw with that hole. You could also use a plunge router if you have one after drilling the alignment hole.

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Tack122 t1_j25gxnc wrote

I've never seen a stone/concrete hole saw with a centering bit.

Is that a thing?

Also, plunge router for stone/concrete is sus.

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luv_____to_____race t1_j25vs5j wrote

No, they don't give us pilot bits in our hole saws. They would just snap off.

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Tack122 t1_j25w323 wrote

Well you'd need a hammer drill for a center bit in stone/concrete. Just spinny would grind off the tip and you'd never sink in.

I could imagine some sort of complicated dual clutched system where the hole saw rides on a hammer drilling center bit, but that'd be a very specialized drill.

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luv_____to_____race t1_j25zhn4 wrote

We can't use ANY hammer drill on stone tops, the many repeated impacts will eventually cause failure in the material. Some may work, most won't. Quartz is made up of about 93% natural Quartz chips, and the rest an epoxy binder resin. It's heated and pressed together in a huge line, and when cooled is extremely durable, but if you start creating point heat/impacts nearing the manufacturing process, all bets are off.

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100GbE t1_j267g21 wrote

Diamond tip bits work well in tile, stone masonry - don't need to use hammer either.

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Hittinuhard t1_j25x5m2 wrote

Yes. Some core bits have a center bit. We have diamond coated router bits that we use with a large water feed to keep the bits cool.

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lemonylol t1_j26ntwm wrote

Ah, just assumed they had them, did not know.

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Hittinuhard t1_j25wxq2 wrote

The problem with coming up from the bottom is that you can blow the face out. If it's a marble or granite type surface it wouldn't be able to handle the heat and have fun trying to use water to keep the bit cool while working underneath the sink.

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[deleted] OP t1_j25u807 wrote

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luv_____to_____race t1_j25xt5f wrote

Ok, you don't want to try from underneath! You can easily locate the hole that you want to use from underneath, and transfer your measurements to the top. Cover the top area w/ blue tape so you can make marks. All of the holes should be on an even number measurement, MOST are 4" center to center. So locate the center of the faucet hole from underneath, by using the very back of the circle, that's the center. Now measure to the center of the hole you want to use. I would guess it will be 8" or 12". With that measurement, go up top and find the center of your faucet at the back of it, and measure to the center of where you want the new hole. So now you have the side to side located. The front to back is simply the same distance from the wall as the center of the faucet, 90 degrees from where the center is on the back. The quartz is NOT friendly on ANY drill bit! I believe HD has a diamond tipped line that I made work, but you might need 2. Go at least 1 size larger than the minimum, the flange will give you plenty of wiggle room. Source: am countertop guy, that builds as a hobby.

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Mhog42 t1_j25icmp wrote

This is a good answer that’ll remove any guesswork.

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NewAlternative4738 t1_j256ahf wrote

I think this is smart. Find the spec sheet on your sink. It will be on the manufacturer’s website. That will provide the exact measurements on where your hole is located

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asjtj t1_j25vb5o wrote

There should be a template with it. If you installed the sink recently you might still have it or online.

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RattleSnakeSkin t1_j2562zv wrote

Completely agree. Got into one of these before I knew what troubles laid ahead. Ended up borrowing a hammer drill with a special bit. If I remember still to quite a while to get through.

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makinithappen69 t1_j28xnkk wrote

Yep. I did this exact project a couple years ago. Huge PITA. Would not recommend.

But if you’re going to attempt it, just keep drilling and you’ll eventually get through…

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ReilleysMom32 t1_j270po6 wrote

Not sure if you actually did anything yet, but I work for a countertop and tile company. If you have a quartz countertop, you need to drill TOP DOWN. Also, are you sure you need a 1/2" bit? We typically drill a 1-3/8" hole with a Dia Diamond Wet/Dry bit for a faucet hole. If you need to use a 1/2" core bit for a filtration faucet, same, buy a Dia bit. Need to use a Milwaukee Angle Grinder to operate; you'll burn out a regular drill. Lastly, get a large sponge, wet it, and cut a hole in the sponge and place the drill bit through the hole as you drill. Start the bit at a slight angle to the edge of the cut-out and then shift the grinder to a 90 degree angle to the countertop to finish.

Typically, the dual mount sinks are 18g sheet metal. Yes, use a metal bit to go through the flange, but my guys are lazy and use the Dia bits. Hope this helps.

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dudas91 t1_j24yaco wrote

You're on the right track to use a diamond core bit for the stone. I don't know if you're planning to use a standard drill motor or if you're planning to use an angle grinder, but you're much better off using an angle grinder. The core bits will be longer and the grinder will give you more control versus a drill motor. I would also recommend to oversize your hole by a little bit and I'd drill a 5/8" hole instead.

For the sink mounting flange you'll almost certinly completely burn a bi-metal hole saw while attempting to drill through the stainless steel. You'd really want to use a carbide tipped hole saw to go through the stainless steel if you expect to use the hole saw more than once.

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Hittinuhard t1_j25w76v wrote

Stone guy here. I mount sinks for a living. The pre drilled holes in the flange re 4" on center. If you found center of your sink to the right and left you should have 2 holes 4" apart from each other. There should be five holes in the sink all together all 1.375 - 1.5 inches in diameter. Drilling through the stainless can be done but it's not optimal. If you overheat the bit the steel will bruise and turn blue. You can drill a larger hole depending on the size of the escutcheon plate. What kind of material are you drilling?

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NewAlternative4738 t1_j24dkoo wrote

Can you post an image of the underside of the sink? In my experience undermount sinks have brackets on the left and right side to mount the sink to the countertop, but I’ve seen some creative installations.

Does the sink only have 1 pre drilled hole? The image you posted has two. If it has 2 pre drilled holes and the 2nd hole is being used for a soap dispenser or a sprayer/handle, I would just get a new faucet that’s a single hole and use the freed up hole for the beverage faucet (assuming they aren’t within a couple inches of each other).

Make sure whatever beverage/drinking faucet you install has a generous flange to cover up an imperfections on the quartz when you drill!

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[deleted] OP t1_j24mcl7 wrote

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lemonylol t1_j251jjg wrote

The first picture is the rear flange right? Why not just use one of those pre-made covered holes?

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[deleted] OP t1_j25tqpo wrote

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Hittinuhard t1_j25xq2h wrote

If you want to be really safe remove the faucet and measure front and back of the existing hole and you can find center. The existing holes on the sink should be 4" on center.

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siwmasas t1_j25of0k wrote

A 1/2" hole in the flange isn't going to compromise the sink's structural integrity regardless of what that wood strip is doing.

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NewAlternative4738 t1_j255zq1 wrote

The side brackets are certainly the primary support, but the sink would also have been attached to the countertop with an adhesive. I suspect you’ll be fine to drill, though if that sink has a warranty, drilling through it will void it.

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[deleted] OP t1_j24kiks wrote

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timtucker_com t1_j25rq91 wrote

What about attaching a strong magnet on either side of where you want the hole to locate where to start drilling on top?

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[deleted] OP t1_j25tvdg wrote

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Hittinuhard t1_j25y40i wrote

If you're drilling a quartz counter top wear a respirator and use a vacuum. Those tops are 93% Silica and 7% resin. Highly toxic. I'm our stone shops Safety guy!

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iamtehstig t1_j26korb wrote

Having someone spray it with water during cutting helps a lot with the dust as well. But yeah, respirators are a must. Silicosis is not a joke.

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luv_____to_____race t1_j25vk54 wrote

It's SS, a magnet won't stick to it.

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OutOfStamina t1_j25w1hk wrote

The suggestion was two magnets, one on either side.

(also there are different types of SS, and some of those types are ferromagnetic).

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Wall-SWE t1_j257jzy wrote

We bought a tap that has regular hot and cold waterline + an integrated line for filtered water.

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Hagenaar t1_j24qd4r wrote

If the sink is installed, I'd just drill through with a ½" diamond hole saw (~$10) and continue at the end with a standard metal bit. Be sure to keep it wet and take your time for the stone part.

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IrocDewclaw t1_j251ts8 wrote

Ok but this part is important.

If its a laminate countertop only drill from the top down.

Drilling from bottom up WILL break loose large chunks of laminate.

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Stratocast7 t1_j25fpzr wrote

Hole saw to get through the countertop then a step drill to get through the sink.

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cobymoby t1_j25qzyz wrote

You're over thinking this a bit.

Yes you can get through the quartz with a diamond/carbide grit hole saw. Then just buy a bi-metal hole saw to get through the stainless. The Milwaukee hole saws are home depot are good for ~20 holes in 18 gauge stainless. The trick is to not let the stainless get too hot and work harden. Use the lower speed on your drill, medium pressure, and spray some WD40 onto the metal as you're cutting. DO NOT CHEAP OUT ON THE HOLE SAW with a harbor freight or some other janky brand.

It sounds like you have an undermounted sink right? Make sure you don't put too much pressure on the flange then, so it doesn't buckle under the pressure of your drill.

You got this!!

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Artistic_Appeal t1_j26mcpp wrote

This might not be helpful for you OP but I recently installed an under sink filter that connects to the cold line. No drilling or anything. Just turn the faucet to cold only and boom, filtered water. It's glorious. I got it from Lowes and it was $110 USD by AO Smith(?).

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modifiedbears t1_j27gfb0 wrote

There are faucets with the drinking water spout on the side so you don't have to drill.

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gokc69 t1_j24lahp wrote

If you want a nice clean hole in the sink flange I recommend one of these

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multimetier t1_j25ch9x wrote

Those are for making holes in mild steel breaker panels when you don't want to be drilling. You have to sandwich the metal with the punch, something that's clearly not possible with an installed sink.

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[deleted] OP t1_j24mrol wrote

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Own-Pea-8212 t1_j24pxpd wrote

Those are primarily used by electricians to create a knockout in a breaker panel and it would only work if you removed the sink.

​

I'm a general contractor with 35 years of experience in construction.

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[deleted] OP t1_j24a114 wrote

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WittyMonikerGoesHere t1_j24oc0e wrote

This isn't necessarily true. Quartz is typically cut with a diamond crusted abrasive hole saw, preferably a wet cut. Attempting to cut steel with the same bit will destroy the abrasive. You might make it through, but the (very expensive) bit will be ruined.

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[deleted] OP t1_j251l74 wrote

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luv_____to_____race t1_j25yj5t wrote

Trust me, the diamond abrasive will NOT make it through the SS even once. The heat generated in the SS is too much. Both the bit and the SS turn pretty blue colors, and you just smoke the drill too. 0/10 do not recommend.

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party_benson t1_j2603qw wrote

Heck no. Still bits are generally purpose built for specific materials. I would not use a bit for stone on stainless steel. That's how you get work hardened stainless. Which is a pain to work with because it's so dang hard.

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TwoSheds84 t1_j245fq3 wrote

As long as there is counter beneath the flange you're drilling though you should be in good shape

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Sevulturus t1_j24hw8l wrote

Undermount sink tho.

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TwoSheds84 t1_j2575a5 wrote

Whoops, missed that, shouldn't be an issue so long as the flange is pushed right up against the bottom of the counter then

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Suyneej t1_j242vdn wrote

You'll be good. The sink rests on the countertop itself and that is where it gets support from. The flange just holds it in place from moving side to side (once you tighten the brackets under the countertop) and covers the hole you've cut in the countertop for the sink.

and you are correct about swapping hole saws for each material.

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Own-Pea-8212 t1_j24arlf wrote

OP stated that it’s an undermount sink which, by definition, means the sink does not rest on the countertop because it is underneath the countertop and not on top of it.

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