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Mysterious-Ad7019 t1_j6fqgwb wrote

  1. Yes you can.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Irlv772Pejk

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=YyVkLa3P1gY

  1. Ideally, you'd know how the inside is constructed so you can get foam into all the nooks and such, but realistically, only way for sure is to remove one side's panel, spray, then reattach.

If you drill holes, and have an endoscope, you could peek in that way as well.

  1. Otherwise, I'd start with a 1'x1' section, drill the first hole, inject foam, let dry. Then drill the second hole inches away and see if foam has reached that far from the original hole.

Do this a few times and you'll get an idea what hole spacing will allow you to fill fully without gaps.

  1. Thankfully.... Craigslist - for sale - free stuff section often has free solid core doors given away that you can use should you want something "better" without wasting a ton of foam money.

    You'd want 3 hinges on solid cores to support the weight.

  2. Keep in mind - SOUND IS CARRIED BY AIR! If there's any air gaps around the door edges, noise will leak in no matter to how solid that door is.

You'd want to weatherstrip/seal all 4 edges to keep noise out.

  1. Sealing doors in a room that doesn't have a dedicated air return to the heater also means no air flow in or out of that room (air would normally flow under the door out as hot air is blown in from the heater vent).

I'll let you calculate how long three oxygen in a 100% sealed room (meaning it's really sealed well against noise entering) lasts before you die.

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Mysterious-Ad7019 t1_j6fqol1 wrote

Normal foam expands a ton, so if you spray into an area that's boxed in internally, it'll bulge/break the panel. Low expansion foam better in this case unless you can remove 1 full door panel from one side to spray in foam.

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