Basement wall framing, slight gaps due to crowning of studs. Please advise on next steps if any are needed.

Submitted by Warsaw14 t3_11eciq4 in DIY

https://imgur.com/a/MFTn84P

Hopefully these pics posted. As you can see there are small gaps when I lay a level horizontally across the newly built section. These gaps are roughly .25 inch or so. I assume they are mainly due to different amounts of crowning between the studs (all crowned outwards the same direction). Is this acceptable amount? Could drywall shims be used to even out? Do I need to redo?! Thanks!!

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PlavaZmaj t1_jadcfkj wrote

Should be able to shim it. I had worse gaps when I redid the drywall on my older home.

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MainOld697 t1_jadu37r wrote

Don't worry about it at all, wood is a natural product and variation WILL happen, even after you've fixed plasterboard to it it will continue to expand and contract for many years...

TLDR: plasterboard it, it's fine.

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InterestingTruth7232 t1_jade971 wrote

Are you rocking both sides of the wall? If that’s the case and it really bothers you you can shim out. If perfectly straight basement walls are really that’s important you should frame with steel studs. That would solve the issue

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Warsaw14 OP t1_jadkhj8 wrote

What do you mean “rocking”?

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InterestingTruth7232 t1_jadku46 wrote

Sheet rock I just call it rocking.

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Warsaw14 OP t1_jadl3yc wrote

Ahh I see. No just the one side. Concrete is behind these walls.

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nhskimaple t1_jadskd6 wrote

You really really need to not worry about this amount of variation. When you attach drywall just don’t suck the screws ultra tight at these points on the wall. Or do and mud the drywall it flush later. Depending on how you lay your sheet rock it’d would be quite tricky to shim this. Cutting and sistering the studs would be easier if you really are concerned

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Low-Rent-9351 t1_jaem9nq wrote

Never leave screws loose so the drywall isn't held tight to the stud unless you like fixing screw pops later.

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nhskimaple t1_jaeu6y3 wrote

Then see my part where I say do it and flush out the area with mud

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InterestingTruth7232 t1_jaeaay8 wrote

Yea the Sheetrock will do a bit smoothing out inconsistencies. Especially if you go 5/8ths. Next time make sure you crown all of your studs in a wall the same direction. Modern lumber is garbage. Good practice. Like I said metal studs would work great since they are not structural and straight as an arrow. They make lvl studs too. Super straight. Very expensive. Metal is pretty easy to work with. Reduces moisture wicking in damp basements and easier to frame slab to ceiling when there is inconsistancies

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Warsaw14 OP t1_jaeg4a5 wrote

I did crown them all the same way! I assume one or two studs should have been discarded considering these gaps, but I did get them all going the same way .

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nagmay t1_jadjii3 wrote

Anything less than an 1/8" shouldn't be a problem, but a full 1/4" could be an issue with your drywall.

First, do your best to identify which studs are the issue. A long level (at least 4') will help to identify find highest/ lowest point. Take care of those first, and then reevaluate. Cutting/sistering or replacing a single stud might take care of most of the problem.

Alternatively, you can shim out all the surrounding studs. Tedious, but often the quicker option. These work well. Or, thick felt paper.

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Warsaw14 OP t1_jadl01m wrote

Thanks! Am I correct that I likely used studs that had too much crown here? I wanna pinpoint whatever error I made to improve in the future. I’m pretty sure the studs that are “low” are the issue. Everything is plumb, I did check with a six foot level and a plumb bob. Wouldn’t just shimming out the few studs in this case be the easiest route overall?

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nagmay t1_jadqnl4 wrote

> Wouldn’t just shimming out the few studs in this case be the easiest route overall

Yes- in my experience, it is much easier to shim a few than to grind/remove a stud that is bowed out. No need to get them perfect, just within 1/8" for flat drywall.

As for the why, there are two things to help in the future:

  1. Watch out for large bows when selecting lumber. The stuff from the big box stores can be really bad. Sight down each piece as you select it.
  2. Match all the bows into the same direction when building the wall. You won't notice if all the lumber bows out 1/8" in the same direction... but if one bows the opposite way, you now have 1/4" to deal with.
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Warsaw14 OP t1_jaeg8e7 wrote

Quick clarification, you mentioned large bows but did you mean crown?

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nagmay t1_jaeli54 wrote

Potato/Potatoe

It is regional, but I usually refer to "crown" when referring to joists and bow when referring to studs or raw framing lumber.

In example: Joists should always be crowned up. Studs can be bowed in either direction, but the direction should be the same for all the studs in a single wall.

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Low-Rent-9351 t1_jaelnng wrote

You put a cut 1/2 way or so into the low side of the stud in the middle of the stud height wise then put a shim into the cut from each side and hammer them in until the stud is even with the others on each side of it. Or, pull it as you jam the shims in to hold it.

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Warsaw14 OP t1_jaemg75 wrote

I’m not sure I’m quite visualizing this? Any way to elaborate a bit?

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Low-Rent-9351 t1_jaes6il wrote

Second picture down on this page. Cut it and wedge a shim or two into it so it comes out lined up with the others.

https://joneakes.com/jons-fixit-database/1991-Straightening-2x4-x27-s-in-a-stud-wall

drive a screw or two into it angled across the cut to hold it together after.

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Warsaw14 OP t1_jaesgiu wrote

Cool thanks. I feel it would be easier in my case to shim the lower studs since there are only 2 off in that direction. The other 8 or so studs are level with each other and I don’t want to cut 8 studs this way to get them level with the lower problem studs

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Warsaw14 OP t1_jaenkm3 wrote

Ahh so you are cutting back the studs that are touching the level as opposed to installing shims on studs that are not touching the level

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vinnyboyescher t1_jaeklxv wrote

Buddy you're fine. especially if you use 5/8 gyproc.

if it reallllly bothers you, give the stud a cut and shim/screw to straighten

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openminded74 t1_jaewrtf wrote

Just throw a wedge in between the concrete wall and the back sides and push them out a little bit.

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LegendofTheLot t1_jaf0v6j wrote

I frame for a living and this is perfectly except-able and probably better then what i would of done. Pat yourself on the back and get to electric, insulation, plumbing if needed and drywall.

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jsar16 t1_jaf2j1e wrote

Yes that’s acceptable. Yes drywall shims can correct it. No, don’t redo it. If you had one or two bad studs then you could swap them out for better ones.

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imoutohere t1_jadf1g2 wrote

Cut the studs 1/2 way. Push it straight and sister with another pc of 2x4 or a rip of plywood. I’m assuming those aren’t bearing walls.

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Warsaw14 OP t1_jadmv43 wrote

Wouldn’t this be more work than shimming the two studs that are Too low to match the higher studs? Seems like I would be cutting like 6 studs in your scenario in order to match the lower studs. Hope that made sense

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