Submitted by Traditional-Ad-5321 t3_1147bmg in DIY

In the demo phase of a bathroom renovation and learning as I go. I plan to take a sledgehammer to my old porcelain enameled cast iron tub (I’ve read up on techniques and safety). Most of the directions online list removing the drain first (either with pliers or a special drain key).

But my drain doesn’t have the cross-bar I’d need to grip with my pliers, and the special tool for this type of drain seems hit or miss in terms of working. If I’m smashing the tub to bits anyway, do I really need to remove the drain first? Is removing it only necessary if you want to keep it to use with the new tub?

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Ac1dBern t1_j8unq67 wrote

Just be careful when you get to it that you don't snap the plumbing firther back and hafta make an even bigger plumbing fix than necessary. Also, there will likely be water in at least the trap but not enough to do any damage

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nhskimaple t1_j8uq3nw wrote

Ooooookay. Here is the scoop you absolutely must remove/disconnect the drain assembly before you smash away at the tub. It it’s contributing substantial staying power to the tub being in THAT spot. Cut with a sawzall and proceed forth.

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Traditional-Ad-5321 OP t1_j8uqshs wrote

I see, I was hoping I could leave it because as I understand it if I can’t remove it from the top, the only other option is cutting it out from underneath - which would involve a long uncomfortable journey through a crawl space. But from what you’re saying it sounds like by not disconnecting it I run the risk of much more involved repairs needing to be done in that same crawlspace. So it’s either go under now for a fairly easy removal, or take a gamble on doing a big job down there. 🤔

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Fleshwound2 t1_j8ur2ow wrote

If you have access to a crawl space, I would highly recommend you go under the house and cut it out if you don't want to remove it from the top.

I have seen some people cut grooves in the drain and use a couple of screwdrivers to remove it, but it is still a massive pain without the right tool. If I were you, I'd just cut it and plan to use a connector and just run a new drain.

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bossman2714 t1_j8v3pih wrote

If don't remove it plumbing will break and then you have to redo plumbing, plummer's ain't cheap ,Lowes sells a socket.or called extractor. that removes tub drain shoe for about 19.00 trust me I us e it at work a lot.

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silas_shepherd t1_j8wns1e wrote

I know this wasn't your question but I had success cutting an old bathtub into large sections w an angle grinder. Loud and dusty but made for a QUICK demo.. also no flying shards from sledgehammering. You'll definitely still need to address the plumbing first though. Good luck!

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danauns t1_j8x23zu wrote

What kind of pipes? Plastic drain pipe, I'd be careful but just smash it as it sits.

If you have metal drain pipes, I'd pause and do what ever it takes to disconnect.

Oh - and the only critical tip I can share, throw down a tarp or old blanket and only smash the completely covered tub. The email splintera and shatters in crazy directions, from everywhere. It's an absolute pain in the ass. ....but covering it while smashing all but eliminates the blast radius.

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c3prd2bb8 t1_j8x3kb4 wrote

Funny story... I used a sledge to break out my old tub. The sledge bounced off the tub and into the toilet and broke the bowl in half. The good news is that the toilet was getting replaced anyway. The bad news is that there was water in the bowl.

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AngleFreeIT_com t1_j8xfq0x wrote

I literally just used one of these a week or two ago for a very similar situation. Not replacing the tub, but had a nasty, leaky seal (in a 2nd floor, no less). Worked like a charm. Old guy a lowes told me to 'hit it real soft with a rubber mallet and use a long breaker bar with a torque adapter so you don't break the pipe'. Might not be necessary to 'not break the pipe' in your case, but in case someone else comes across this post in the future - if your crossbeams are broken, buy a crossthreaded remover like above. Works great!

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Traditional-Ad-5321 OP t1_j8xjfxe wrote

Thanks everyone for your advice. I bought the removal tool but it wouldn’t go deeper than about 1/4” - so applying turning pressure would just make it slip out. I ended up cutting a few notches into it with an angle grinder and then using a hammer and chisel to turn it, finally got it:

https://i.imgur.com/joV4dBp.jpg

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CanadianBaconMTL t1_j8yx96e wrote

Welp you gonna have to replace the drain anyway so go ahead

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