Exactly. Sand doesn't compact.

This is good advice for sunny southern geographies.

If OP lives somewhere with a freeze thaw cycle, don't do this.

Fun fact, there is no such thing as compacted sand. Sand is the absolute worst base for anything.

It has a purpose in hard scaping, but filling isn't it.

Use DAP 230, it's great and printable.

Ugh, bad advice in here. Don't use silicone. You'll hate yourself for it.

No it's not. Silicone is a poor choice anywhere up against drywall.

The sink is installed up against drywall. The caulk between the two should be printable.

Is bad.

If a wire comes loose, how do you troubleshoot? It's also extra volume in the box, unnecessary.

No, and the advice here that says you can is wrong. Pancake boxes are not rated for fans.

What you can do is mount your fan bracket to the same wood/structure that the pancake box is screwed to.

Do not hang the fan from the box alone.

Do hang the fan bracket up through the box, into the structure above.

No, and the advice here that says you can is wrong. Pancake boxes are not rated for fans.

What you can do is mount your fan bracket to the same wood/structure that the pancake box is screwed to.

Do not hang the fan from the box alone.

Do hang the fan bracket up through the box, into the structure above.

(Obviously) they see the way you're acting like you're somebody else, gets me frustrated

Replace the cartridge in the shower mixer.

Though sanding isn't explicitly necessary, it is absolutely a step that can be added to GREATLY upgrade your results.

The end result is absolutely night and day different. Steps include:

• Remove all wall plates, lights, fixtures so that the entire wall is exposed. Tape where necessary, switches for example.
• scrub the entire wall with a TSP solution to remove all surface grime.
• pole sand the entire wall.
• hand sand around every outlet and switch, these areas get extra shabby over the years.

Then paint. You will with out question see a difference.

Yep, a couple different approaches.

I'm usually brought in at the 'I tried to install this nest, and it isn't working' stage of troubleshooting, so it's already been fiddled with and can no longer be trusted.

Maybe it's just me, but starting at the thermostat has always been baffling.

I always start at the furnace, figure out what's connected to what down there. Informed with this I can head upstairs and decode the thermostat.

What kind of pipes? Plastic drain pipe, I'd be careful but just smash it as it sits.

If you have metal drain pipes, I'd pause and do what ever it takes to disconnect.

Oh - and the only critical tip I can share, throw down a tarp or old blanket and only smash the completely covered tub. The email splintera and shatters in crazy directions, from everywhere. It's an absolute pain in the ass. ....but covering it while smashing all but eliminates the blast radius.

That union doesn't need teflon tape. The rubber gasket inside the female/but end makes the seal.

It's fine for a quick kayak shelter.

One thing I'd change: it's always best to build horizontal beams on top of vertical posts, rather than bolt beams onto the side of posts as you've illustrated. This transfers the load directly rather than relying on the shear strength of your fasteners.

Edit: how's this going to be anchored to the ground?

I'm not sure that the port authorities were sworn into the match that the hider is participating in.

Section 7, part B of the Handbook states: That though found, the game should continue. The ineligible seekers are now sworn under IHAS protocols to not tattle on the hiders location.

Game on folks.

Dishwashers don't get installed in cabinets, they get installed into 24" gaps between cabinets. Or in your case, a panel is installed to support the hanging end of the counter creating the same 24" cavity for the dishwasher.

How wide is your cavity? The correct answer, is to move that outside panel so that your dishwasher fits properly.

I wouldn't be comfortable with plug style anchors either.

Butterfly anchors on the other hand are not just adequate, they're ideal. There is 0 movement, shaking or jiggling here either ....once you snug it up tight, it's mounted until you take it down.

The projector screen, depending on size and if it's the kind that rolls up and down - yea, you'd want that into something structural.

How big is the projector?

They aren't very big these days, butterfly style toggle bolts would absolutely hold it up with confidence.

Just be mindful when installing if there is insulation above.

Same search, but for rubber.

I switched when I saw that, and it's staggering the difference.

He's posted an update or two, but this is the way.

What's the foundation wall?

I really like the insulfast/ramset - really quick no no fiddling around. Click, bang done.

It's just, different. Apples to oranges really.

Insulating the floor effectively turns the floor into an exterior wall..

Encapsulation keeps the exterior, to the actual outside and elevates the 'envelope' performance of your home, which is typically a massive gain in terms of energy efficiency ~and air quality.

I've never approached this from the perspective of floor temperature, it's always been more of an efficiency and air quality exercise.