Submitted by original_and_amusing t3_11af5ze in DIY

Photo reference: https://i.postimg.cc/nhJf2g6j/PXL-20230224-011745123.jpg Context: I'll soon be adding tile in my shower and use moisture resistant sheetrock on my regular walls and cement board for inside the shower.

When doing the framing around my shower, I was thinking the cement board could be aligned with the shower curb and the drywall would be on the outside of that. I failed to account that the cement board and tile that would be on the curb and I actually should have extended my framing to the left a bit. This would have ensured the tiles are aligned to the outside edge.

I see myself with two options: a) just allow the tile to go a bit onto the sheetrock. b) extend the cement board to the next stud to the left. option a may leave me a bit less protected in terms of moisture but option b will mean I'll have to paint the cement board. Note: my walls are actually all textured so there's no concern about it being rough/not smooth.

What do folks think? Thanks for any help.

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Comments

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DickeyDooEd t1_j9rpg90 wrote

You can use your cement board to end where you want and just use some sheet membrane out to the area the tiles extend. I myself don't care for cement board as it's not waterproof at all. But use Laticrete Hydroban board and sheet membrane on the edge and or Schluter and Mapei now makes waterproof board also. Much easier to work with. Not a fan of the Schluter but to each his own. Look up Sal Diblasi on U tube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V8_EvJa3SYE and his latest video shows what to do with that area your worried about.

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jtgreen76 t1_j9rtmbc wrote

You can tile outside of the shower over sheetrock. You need Hardie or cement board in the shower for all walls. Silicon all seams and use a trowel to flatten them. The three coats of redgaurd over the entire shower. And the seam where the sheetrock begins. Then tile over.

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loganab13 t1_j9rund4 wrote

Cement board is more than sufficient. The other options are nice and a lot easier to work with, but are also a lot more expensive. I’ve been in some form of residential or commercial construction for nearly two decades and 95% of the tile jobs in bathrooms had cement board behind them. Make sure your tile guy tapes the seams with fiber mesh and floats the joints with thinset and you won’t have any issues.

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blueparcel t1_j9rw2n7 wrote

In this case I would just tile slightly onto the drywall. This will be the easiest way to make sure you have a nice looking edge where your drywall and tile meet. I always use a liquid waterproofing membrane on the tile backer anyway and you can put some on the drywall where it will have tile on it. Tape the seams with some fibatape and paint over the entire area that will be getting wet with the waterproofing. If you are using a shower pan liner on the floor make sure it goes up at least a foot on all sides and make sure the tile backer comes down over the top of it. You should be good to go. This is the way I usually do it anyway.

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shoredude17 t1_j9t6f36 wrote

Use GoBoard instead of cement board. It’s already waterproof and installs/cuts much easier. Lightweight as well. And just run your tile onto the drywall, that’s common at that transition.

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