Youve got thin bits of wood perpendicular to the length of the roof. I would perhaps consider using thicker posts or square beams for these. You wouldnt want wind to blow it over, and those thin sides could be a vulnerability.

I would also concrete them into the ground at least a foot, maybe foot and a half.

Roof likes fine. If its just for a kayak it really doesnt need to be fort knox.

Longer or thicker screws would be easiest.

Colour matching shouldnt be a huge issue. Plenty of suppliers have tons of colours and most retailers can order in the colours you need.

You will not be able to match caulk colours perfectly. They vary batch to batch even if you get the same colour from the same supplier. Existing caulk might also discolour over time and not match new caulk. However, if there are no direct joins, you should get away with doing one separated section, such as around the lip of the tub, in a replacement colour without doing everything else.

As for waterproofing, caulk in bathrooms should basically be a first line of defence. Grout and most tiles are porous and water will get through them. The bulk of the waterproofing should be a membrane under the tiling.

If its just the ends of your caulk that are tipping up, id personally just try sticking them back down again with some glue or whatever. Removing caulk can be easy or very painful, depends on access, thickness, etc.

Putting down a nice bead is also sometimes very easy and sometimes very difficult. If your surfaces meet, then it will be quite easy, but if youre filling in a 10mm gap with caulk, you will have a very shit time.

The easiest process ive found is to have some paper towels or rags ready, lay the bead, spray the area with soapy water, spray your finger with soapy water, and then shape the bead with your finger. Clean the excess onto a rag, and continue. If you dont use soapy water, you will have a shit time cleaning up. A very shit time.

Tldr this is not a big problem and you can choose to leave it or repair it for cosmetic purposes, the real waterproofing should be under the tiles.

If you have a long straight edge, check to see if the new door is warped. It might just be bent.

Also check the usual culprits; where you mounted the hinges, knob, and reciever. Also check for any obstructions that are causing it to veer outward.

Its not a big deal though. Once youve put trim around the frame youll barely notice it anyways.

Yeah definitely, if its loose and you can move it in, definitely smack it down with a hammer and nails

Tape and compound will do it. Try to sand down to the bare sheets beforehand so your tape and compound dont stand out too much.

Use a long, flat sander to get the finish as smooth as possible, and then be sure to topcoat it with a finishing compound, it makes a big difference.

Few airborne particles from building materials are ok for people to inhale, so you should always take precautions regardless of whether its recycled paper, crystalline silica, or asbestos.

Good practise would be to use plastic dropsheet to quarantine the area so he can keep the dust contamination as close to zero as possible. He should also be wearing a p3 respirator to keep himself safe. If water suppression is possible, use that. He should also remove his dusty clothes after finishing up and put them in a plastic bag to be washed separately.

While its only one wall, and everything will most likely be fine, workplace lung diseases are not to be taken lightly. I learned the hard way.

Lmao

Hexagonal star shaped bits are torx bits. If they have a little point in the center of the hole, thats torx tamperproof.

I have a torx kit for both, but i try to avoid anything that uses torx, its usually some overengineered german monstrosity.

Sure its a pentagon and not a hexagonal allen key? Ive never heard of a pentagonal bit.

Regardless, if you have some flat head screwdrivers, you can try wedging one of them in to unscrew them. Ive done that a couple of times in a pinch.

Although, if its a regular allen key, these are cheap and you should have a set in your tool kit, so it would be worth buying.

Youll hear your headphones, theyll just be quieter than they could be.

I like to perform a practical test.

First you cut the stud, then if the roof caves in, you can safely determine that the stud was important.

From what ive read, the fence is breezeblocks, except theyre on their side so the hollow bit is vertical, is that right?

And then on top is a layer of crete to cover the hollows?

If so, could you just crack away the capping crete with a hammer? That would give you access without messing around too much.

If its leaking, that means water is passing the valves in the tap(s) (you might have one of those mixer things that combined hot and cold)

I fixed mine by swapping out the valve. Look like little spinning tops and you can buy packs of em for like $10.

If thats your problem, you can look up how-tos online for replacing valves in taps. Very easy job. Took me ten minutes to do my shower, and thats only because the value was stuck.

Any online guide will warn you to turn off your water supply to your house first. I will remind you also.

Can you full the gaps with some concrete of your own so they're solid?

Looks like the door itself has come loose at the joins. You can replace the door or try to rectify it.

If it were me, id remove the door, tip some wood glue into the gaps that have formed in the joins, and tap it back to square with a rubber mallet.

Depending how much glue you can get in, it might be worth trying to poke some long screws in to mechanically fasten the joins too.

This is the path of wisdom.

Give sewing a go. Its very easy for patches, you dont need to be neat, or even. Its just a mechanical fastening.

I always, always, always sew patches. Riding a motorcycle with iron-on patches on your bags always gives you bare bags by the time you reach your destination. Learn from my mistakes.

Not a problem.

To plug the hole, id just glue a little bit of wood shaped to fit the hole in there.