I become even more confused about Sharur every time he’s mentioned here.

You have one person saying he’s a troll: Downvoted

You have another person defending him: Also Downvoted

I don’t know what to think 😂

Tiny ear gang

They are or were at the top of Crin’s list and he’s the guy around here. Me personally, I really did not like them at all for a lot of reasons but I’m in the minority on that. I think its popularity has faded a lot. There’s just so much coming out these days and things get left behind fairly quick.

Curious as well. They don’t get talked about as much here.

You don’t need TOTL gear to have “the best” sound, for you. Especially if your preferences don’t line up with a predefined frequency target (like Harman). Diminishing returns hits hard around $800 or so, for both headphones and IEMs, but it starts even lower than that. Play around in the budget price bracket, find out what tunings and technical proficiencies you like the most and then if you still got the upgrade itch, now you have a better idea of what to look for in higher end gear. You should also not buy anything that’s so expensive that you’re afraid to use it.

Also, don’t go crazy on amps or DACs right out of the gate. Find what is generally considered “great for the money” and stick with that at least until you’re pretty sure you’re settled in with the headphones/in-ears you have. You can spend a hell of a lot of money on amps and DACs for almost no benefit over something reasonably priced and well liked. The main thing to keep in mind when shopping for this stuff is what kind of tonal shift does it impart. I keep running into amps/DACs that roll off the treble too much making my headphones sound darker than they should. Some like that but I don’t. Maybe you will, maybe you won’t. Won’t know until you try it whether you want a tell-it-like-it-is dead neutral amp or a warm/dark amp or whatever.

Nice! Glad to hear it.

If your phone has headphone output or if you have an old phone with 3.5mm then those should work too. The 177x are intended to be easy to power so anything should fine enough to test.

I have the 177x and they are a bit boomy on known-good DAC/Amps. Not terrible but definitely a bit bloated. It may be that the LG actually reduced the lower frequencies and you got used to that sound so by comparison they sound wrong.

I remember the WiFi syncing was really slow as well. It was cool but it failed often lol.

Ooooh you’re right, I completely forgot about that lol. I was the only person I knew with a Zune at that time so unfortunately, no, I never did get to squirt.

I beg your pardon

Zune gets shit on, but goddamn I loved my OG brown Zune when I was a teen. I have so much to thank that thing for. Not least of which is that it introduced me to metal, which became my favorite genre. If anyone had the OG Zune, it was preloaded with several music videos and one of them was All That Remains.

I was actually shocked how good the KSC75 (with headband) are for gaming. I got accused of X-ray vision in splitgate but the Koss’s are just really good for hearing enemy positions.

A 3.5mm jack in a TV will likely be running through its own conversion/amplification, which I would not expect to be top tier. You could maybe get a digital signal out via audio return or probably your best bet is if the TV has optical out which you can plug into your own DAC/Amp.

> USB to Jack 3.5 adapter

You’ll need to check to see if the built in USB port on the TV can be used to output audio. I know some don’t, so I don’t know how common it is.

>…block the audio when using an external device…

I can’t imagine why they would do that. Seems it would seriously hamper its usefulness as a way to consume media. But then again I guess it wouldn’t be the craziest thing ever.