Why so heavily tilted towards US large caps?

>As in, is this actually worth it to continue putting money in the TDF,

When did you start investing in it? Was any of it rolled over from another retirement account?

It depends on the person. I absolutely would put in the effort for example. Basically no extra stress, 5 minutes a month tops, can be done alongside my other banking already.

>I think the peace of mind of not having that debt over your head is worth $20 a month to most people, but it’s not wrong either way

It becomes a mathematical best vs possibly emotional best.

>There’s also the reality that most people will SAY they’re going to pay the minimum and invest the rest, but in reality they pay the minimum and spend the rest. Paying down debt is irrevocable forced savings.

Yes, self control is required, (edit to finish accidental early posting follows) but that applies elsewhere too.

>From what I read I have my doubts, because your credit score is great and his -apparently- isn’t.

OP being added as AU won't help the father's score at all.

>If you signed something, check the contract.

AUs don't need to sign anything. Many lenders don't even take AUs to be of age where they legally could sign anything.

>He’s probably using you to boost his credit

Then the plan isn't working. OP being the AU would do nothing for their father.

>Talk to a lawyer.

No need. AU is a very easy fix. A phone call to the lender should be all that's needed to remove it completely.

You might be able to call them and ask to be removed. If that won't work, ask your dad to do it.

Which business card is this that is actually reporting? While a few do, most don't.

Edit: Typo

>watch out for keywords often used by scammers, such as "HYSA."

It's a relative term. There are options with higher interest rates than the debts OP has.

>This is not correct

How so? If rates drop again, below the debt rate, then it would make sense to pay the debt.

Edit: Typo

>how is it ok for you to pay extra 575 ( interest is 2.5%, not 0 %) for your debt, 9100 for interest on your mortgage

They can get a better return, risk free, by tossing that money into one of many HYSAs and only paying minimums on those debts.

Edit: Typo

>removes the payment entirely sooner, which increases savings.

Their savings would increase faster by using many HYSAs instead of paying at least some of these debts.

Within tax advantaged accounts, no.

>I wanted to move to ETFs because of their low expense ratio.

Low ERs is not exclusive to ETFs. In fact, several Fidelity mutual funds beat the ER of any comparable ETF.

Low ERs is usually far more of an issue of index based vs actively managed. Index mutual funds exist, actively managed ETFs exist.

>My 401k fund options are very limited.

That's usually the case.

>So I chose the funds I mentioned.

You only need FSKAX of those 3.

You should also look into adding at least an ex-US fund somewhere.

>On my 401K, I am investing my money on VITAX, FSKAX and SWPPX

Why? FSKAX already fully includes the others.

>specifically Vanguard S&P500 ETF and Totals bonds ETF in 90%, 10% ratio.

• Why ignore the US extended market?

• Why ignore ex-US?

• What made you decide ETFs over mutual funds?

>Should I follow this approach across all my retirement accounts and the brokerage account?

I wouldn't follow it in any account to be honest. Personally, I consider the S&P 500 obsolete for any account where you don't have a short list to pick from (because of bullets 1 & 2).

>Can I open a Roth IRA account on my own and contribute 6k/year if I enrolled in my employer's Roth 401k?

Yes, limits are separate.

>Am I correct in assuming that the $22,500 limit for 2023 applies to these 2 accounts combined?

Yes. Those 2 share the same limit.

>If so, then the Roth IRA with $6k limit is a separate entity and I can open one and contribute to that on my own?

Yes.

There are 2 splits on standard retirement accounts:

• Account type (401K, IRA being the most common, but a few other types do exist)

• Tax treatment (Roth vs Traditional)

The annual limits supply to the account type, not tax treatment.

>if I enrolled in my employer's Roth 401k?

Is that actually best for you?

• https://www.gocurrycracker.com/roth-sucks/

• http://wantfi.com/skip-the-roth-401k.html

• https://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/comments/10qwnrx/why_you_should_almost_never_contribute_to_a_roth/

• https://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/comments/z5hb8v/how_much_money_are_we_talking_about_losing_if_you/ixw89x5

I'm thinking more on the home buyer's end. Just thinking about still having a mortgage into 70s when only 3x years old (unless they make extra payments).

You just have to be that guy that mentions that, don't you?

40 years seems like it could be difficult to get to work. That's age 25 to 65 for example. Buy much later and you're into your 70s...

>and I would be investing (in the IRA Roth at least) into FZROX, FSKAX

Pick 1 of these 2, they fill the same role, so there's no real benefit to holding both. Then pick an ex-US fund (FZILX or FTIHX would be my top 2 at Fidelity).

I'd be sure to read the comments on this thread on why not everything Collins wrote should be followed: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bogleheads/comments/r7hiaf/in_the_simple_path_to_wealth_by_jl_collins_he

Edit: Typo

>Do you suggest that I should invest a monthly sum into these funds (maybe 60-120 dollars a month)?

"As much as you can as soon as you can."

Please also see the /r/personalfinance Prime Directive: https://reddit.com/r/personalfinance/w/commontopics

>I am using Fidelity, so I'm pretty sure I can do fractional ETFs.

Correct, and Fidelity also has excellent index mutual funds to consider (though the Zero funds especially should NOT be held in taxable accounts due to inability to be moved to any other brokerage).

>I am wondering if it's a good idea to invest a couple hundred dollars in the iShare S&P 500 ETF

It is ok, but there are better strategies than S&P 500. For example, a total world fund (see VT, 2 letters) or pair a US total market fund with an ex-US fund (one of many examples being ITOT + IXUS).

>I heard investing in index ETFs are better for the long term

Index funds are best for long term. ETF vs mutual fund depends on person, account type, and brokerage used.

>so is 500 dollars too less to begin investing in the ETF? I was planning on investing a dollar amount of $200 dollars into the ETF.

Depending on brokerage, you may not be able to do this. IVV has a nearly $400 share price, you'd have to use a brokerage that offers fractional ETFs.

You'll need to run the math to see how much of an impact the ER difference would be and compare that to the tax savings (don't forget to consider the tax savings as additional investments).

>As long as it's FDIC insured, you're fine

Or NCUA if it is a credit union.

I'm not saying avoid S&P 500. I'm saying to not use S&P 500 only funds, but to use broader funds that cover S&P 500 and more.

S&P 500 works, but for the same exact cost and difficulty, there are better options (US total market). And for only a slightly higher cost (and maybe 1 additional fund), even better than that (going global).

>However, historically, it returns

Like I said, it has worked so far, but it both:

• Ignores the compensated small cap risk factor

• Takes on the uncompensated single country risk factor

I don't see any reason to do either of these.

But why use that when for the same costs you can use US total market? Better diversification and gives coverage of a compensated risk factor.

>as that seems like my best option Will hold long term

Personally, I consider S&P 500 obsolete (in any account where you're not limited to a short list to pick from): why ignore the US extended market and ex-US markets?

Doing S&P 500 only means you take on an uncompensated risk (single country) and ignore a compensated risk (smaller caps). For long term (or even mid-term), I see no reason to do either of those.

>Which has the lowest fee?

Fidelity's FXAIX is the lowest I know at 0.015%. Though I'd consider FSKAX better for the US market: it covers smaller caps as well and is the same cost at 0.015% (then just add FTIHX or similar for ex-US).

>I think fidelity has a zero fee one?

No. Fidelity's Zero funds follow Fidelity designed indexes, so FNILX is 500 large caps and is probably more rules based than S&P 500 is (see the difference in how each handled Tesla in 2020).

Also FXAIX and FNILX (and FSKAX) are index mutual funds, not ETFs.

Edit: Typo

Value vs Growth factor. The names may be misleading, value actually has the better expected long term returns.

Look for "blend" funds instead.

Or even better, don't look at S&P 500. Look for total market instead (S&P 500 is a subset of the US total market) and ideally pair it with an extra fund. Total market would give you exposure to the "small" compensated risk factor and adding ex-US would remove the "single country" uncompensated risk factor.

Edit: Typo