There are several items like this available: https://www.amazon.com/Controller-100-240vAC-Adjustable-Splitter-Multi-Functional/dp/B0BBSBV9CF

Also several that can plug into a USB charger. Something like this would be my choice as you can control fan speed via voltage so you can get your airflow to noise ratio dialed in to your preference. I got a similar setup in my AV rack, though it turns on and off automatically with a temperature probe.

I just rebuilt an old Tecware Phantom with Akko Lavenders and they are amazing for the price. I also have a second Phantom rebuilt with Akko Yellow Creams and they sound phenomenal. However, I hate the typing experience on them. They feel fine, but my accuracy is terrible on linear switches. The Lavenders are a lot more clack than thock, but I am much more accurate on them.

On a side note, take that old Logitech with the Cherry Blues and do a quick mod on it. I have an old Cooler Master with MX Blues. I syringe lubed the switches with Superlube, tape moded the back of the board, lubed the stabilizers, and popped some thicker PBT caps on it. The change is massive. It sounds and feels better than a similar board I have with MX brown switches in it. I intend to do the same mods to that board and see what I end up with.

I also intend to try on the Gazzew switches at some point. I think I'll prefer the U4T though as the U4s are silent, and lack any real thock, which is something I prefer. Finding them in stock is always the problem.

A sprayer will definitely give better results in that situation. Drips are a real pain when working with a more fluid paint.

A non-waterbased primer would be best. Zinsser Cover-Stain (oil) or B-I-N (alcohol) should be readily available at most box store and many real paint stores.

If you want a smooth finish without spraying you should follow a few steps. Prime, sand, prime again if needed, and sand again. Sometimes the substrate will really soak up the primer. You want a good blocking coat to sand smooth so two coats of primer may be needed.

After that, be careful with which paint you choose. Something like SW Duration is NOT a good choice as it uses elastomeric resins, which are too rubbery for a good finish. You want something fluid. There are some products like Insul-X Cabinet Coat (owned by Ben Moore not I believe) that are made for this application. If you need to use a more available paint, make sure it's 100% acrylic, not a vinyl/latex blend. Pure acrylics cure harder. You can modify the paint with an extended such as X-I-M Latex extender to get a more fluid application from the paint. Roll it on and immediately back brush to smooth it out. If using the correct paint and painting all surfaces laying horizontally, it should flow out nearly as smooth as a spray application.

It's most likely cut too tight around the edges. Removing the base and cutting the gap should help. It's the house that expands and contracts around the floating floor. The structure of the house is wood. You can also have this issue if he pulled a classic builder move and set heavy appliances and cabinetry on top of the floor. This type of floor should be cut around cabinet, not have them sit on top to pin it in place. Areas where heavy appliances are to be installed should be area glued down while the rest of the floor is allowed to float.

Looking at the photo, you may need some extra material to fix it. That looks like it has sheered the tongue off the sides of the boards.

If you are super worried, just slide a long board across it from one edge to the other so the board is holding more of your weight than the roof is. It looks like you could fit one under the railing.