Latex over oil

I would not do deck blocks…I would do a 24”x24x18” footing with a Simpson post base….and a couple of #4 bars horiz. And a bent one going from horiz to vert in center … I would also do a sono tube -8” above grade , burying posts is a bad idea even if ptdf…I build in Ca so frost not an issue, wood has no business sub grade, and deck blocks unless set in a footing are shit. I have built many decks this way, no issues.

I would agree, do the kerdi bench, and then wrap it with kerdi membrane onto pan and up walls a few inches….they make corners too..

Ps: what’s wrong with using the hook on the shower glass?

Door is not hollow, the stiles and rails will be mid, just use 1” drywall screws….what is going on with the door latch?

Why don’t you pop your head into the attic(assuming it’s a 1 story) and see if there is any roof bracing/ purlins/posts bearing on that section of wall…that will tell you if it is load bearing….if it is a 2 story…call a SE.

Is it possible the handle turned 90’ on the shaft?(assuming it’s a ball valve)

Walk away

2 brackets?

Those brackets hold 600# each…so if you use the right fasteners, 2400# capacity?I think 4 is overkill…no?

Kidding

A nap is a short sleep in between texturing….

If it is anything but flat paint(has any sheen)you will need to prime it before new texture, then you will need to reprime/paint.

2 words….structural engineer

Never put posts below grade…..even ptdf….use a Simpson post bases, and figure out another way to provide lateral support(45’ angle brace, pst/beam).

You can pull that jack stud….no worries