Just buy square tube that slides tightly over the existing circular tubes and use them as uprights.

Then railings and pailings as usual

Those closed risers should resolve the span of the treads. Unless the stringer on the open balustrade side of the stair has unacceptable deflection there is no reason for replacement.

Creaking can easily be fixed with wedges and epoxy.

Based on what?

Jamb wasn’t deep enough. Pull off the mould and replace with a nice bit of trim.

Now do CO2

It’s the .52 isn’t it?

28.52mm

Would you prefer millimetres?

Best answer

There’s probably no starter bars holding the column down to the footing and you’ll just push the bottom row of bricks off its foundation. Or it will seperate at a row of bricks.

Yes you can sand engineered boards in the future. Make sure the ones you get are hardwood above the tongue.

Laminates you can’t.

Ok - as am I. Just screen any advice you get from this sub as a lot of commentators are US based and the yellow tongue system may not be familiar to them.

It depends. But likely yes you could overlay the existing 19mm solid timber boards with 13mm engineered timber once you prepare them.

you can definitely do it with solid timber boards and nail them through the face in the traditional manner. The floor will be as flat (or not) as the original floor.

With the engineered boards, it depends on the fixing method. If you are doing a floating floor the it’s possible if the current floor is within the specified flatness. If the floor is not flat you will have issues with boards or tongues cracking. You would put an acoustic underlay down first. The floors do creak a bit either as the room heats up/cools down or when people walk on them.

Alternatively you could glue and nail them if the floor under is sound which will give you a far better feel underfoot. The floor board manufacturers literature should be consulted.

To prepare the existing floor boards and improve flatness replace any rotten boards, punch any nails down, flattened with a drum sander and then some levelling compound used in isolated areas prior to overlaying with the engineered flooring.

I would get a flooring contractor in to review and provide advice.

Remember regardless of what you overlay with you may have the same issues with stairs and either all your skirting boards need to come off and be replaced with new (and walls patched and repainted) or a timber bead gets put around the perimeter tacked onto the skirting boards, which is a bit of a giveaway.

Also all doors will need to be remove and trimmed. If they are hollow core doors they may need to have the internal bottom rails removed and new timber rails glued in and likely require the entire door to be repainted. Solid doors can just be trimmed but make sure the bottom edge is repainted.

Are you in Australia?

Engineered boards (solid timber with an engineered base) are awesome - the are dimensionally stable and also more sustainable. Make sure the hardwood section is full depth to the tongue - this will allow them to be refinished in the future ie sanded and polished. You would get three sand and recoats with which will be longer than you are alive. They are at least as good as solid hardwood and in some ways better. If they are end-matched there is also minimal wastage as they don’t need to finish over a joist.

Options are 18mm over joists or 13mm over a structafloor (yellow tongue particle board floor). The latter option would be my preference as it is more solid under foot and more stable. However there can be some slight cupping which only those in the trade generally notice.

The prefinshed boards are glued and secret nailed so you also save the cost of punching nails, filling, sanding and polyurethane coats.

A Structa-floor will not swell with normal use. As you probably know, they are designed (wax impregnated) to be in the weather while the frame is being stood and roofed. With overlaying carpet, vinyl, floor board or tiles and normal use they are fine.

Wet area (bathroom) flooring should be compressed fibre sheet and waterproofed.

If the boards are structurally ok and reasonably level then it is fine to just lay new boards over the top and nail offset. Ie use the same width boards and lay them staggered over the ones below. But it really is a better option to remove.

Personally I would pull up the old boards and yellow tongue it before laying . You will also get a chance to wedge the joists where required to relevel the floor. Pulling up the boards is not a big job - particularly if the builder makes up a lever to do so. Probably a days work for three blokes and the cost of a skip …. A few grand at most. While this may seem a lot, it is small in comparison to the cost of the yellow tongue and hybrid floor boards. Given the investment in the new floor over the top, just do it right.

If you still decide to overlay, check what happens to your stair heights as your decision to overlay will affect the top tread height and require stair replacement/ modification (by also overlaying) to maintain consistent a rise on the the treads over the entire flight.

Source: licensed builder.