Sure, I’ll believe that… 😉

Not in any way saying an acrylic plate is a bad choice. It’s just a known issue that the switches isn’t locking. So for a keyboard you move around a lot it might not be the obvious choice.

You can get around it by machining cutouts for the locking tabs into a 3mm acrylic. I tried that once. Only once, and it was a major PITA.

Sure, but a 1.6mm acrylic plate is very unusual since it’s thin enough that it simply cracks.

Its got absolutely nothing to do with being hot-swap, and all to do with your choice of plate.

An acrylic top plate is not 1.6mm thick which is what the switches are designed to grip, but 2mm or 3mm instead. So you aren't locking the switches in place as designed, but simply have them stuck in there as 'press fit'.

All on you for making a choice of aesthetic over function.

That should at least net you two days or possibly three.

If you have the RGBs soldered, and external VCC on, they are drawing roughly 7-8mAh per LED in standby keeping the communication on.

And as said OLEDs are also a battery killer. With nice!views instead, and no RGB soldered, it’s a whole different story.

As a Nordic language user, all I can say is nee-nee-nee-naw.

For once, I can actually buy the alphas, and an ISO or NorDe kit and use the damned key set without having to buy ridiculous kits I’ll never need.

The standard way of kitting only benefits US ANSI users, and nobody else. For once, you’re not getting benefits, so your complaining. sigh

Why exactly is that? In Sweden the same a thing applies as in Finland. Its public records. For everyone.

I’m fairly certain it curbs the most excessive cheating by default that way.

Well, I haven’t run any GB’s since I myself have a few bad experiences participating. And don’t worry I will participate again, I just don’t want that responsibility that way.

I am however considering kickstarter/indiegogo for some projects as it’s a bit more ‘regulated’ and have done so for other unrelated projects, and I can tell you from that experience trying to make a budget, guess at half the costs, and get the price of the end product to a sane level that people can accept, set a timeline that won’t kill you from overworking yourself, that the overall profit if you actually count your hours as an employee or as a business owner would, it’s 100% guaranteed to be a loosing endeavor.

The ‘real’ profit is in you yourself getting whatever it is you funding most of the time. And I think that applies to a lot of GB runners.

There have been a few GB runners posting numbers in the past, and without remembering any specifics, the over all image is the same. At best they got the profit to cover their hours and perhaps a little on the top, most often not. Feel free to find the numbers and dispute me though, as it was a while back.

Well, call it something else if you prefer, and can find the ‘right’ word. What you a purchasing is a part of a production slot.

Yes, you are effectively taking part in the profit. Most things in a GB would have a much higher price unles it met a MOQ which requires either the GB or a full financing from a single backer taking all the risk and all the profit. Then it would still likely cost more, as that would in-fact be the profit for that backer.

Sure the designer/runner takes more of the profit on paper, but most of them do not accurately count their actual worked hours and if they did, the GB would in many cases be a net loss for them.

And that’s your issue right there. In a GB you aren’t buying a product the same way you are buying an iPhone or a smoked ham.

You are instead funding the production of the end product as a (small) partner in the endeavor. Meaning you get to take part in all the ups and downs of it, that the sellers of a product goes though. You aren’t buying an already manufactured product sitting on a shelf. And you knew that quite well walking into it.

So, adjust your expectations accordingly, and the problem is solved.

Mill max have an online guide to selecting the correct part no for the size hole and stem. It should give you a better fit.

There is a reason why the YouTube videos don’t mention your specific issues. The should never occur if you do the correct research before jumping in.

1. There are multiple boards like that. There are other mill-max sockets that fit them better.

2. If you run into this issue, you selected the wrong parts.

3. It’s not recommended to use switches that have been soldered in mill max sockets at all. It’s possible to damage/jam the socket so that you cannot remove the switch and tear the socket and pad of the PCB. Beware.

It’s 100% customizable once loaded with base QMK.

Btw if you figure out your size, just google it. Likely someone made it if it’s just grid ortho.

So basically a preonic? And you would need QMK to program it.

Since you aren’t giving any details it’s hard to answer your question. There are plenty of diy keyboards around that have unique layouts, maybe one will fit you.

If not the most popular way to make your own keyboard is to 3d print the case and have the plate cut by a laser cutting service, and then hand wire the circuit together.

Tell us more, and we can help more.