carlbernsen

carlbernsen t1_jac3hbe wrote

Reply to comment by Isobelcate in Pls help, bed raiser by Isobelcate

If you can make a central cut out or have one made, that would be secure, but you’ll also lose a bit of height that way so you’ll need taller blocks. The width of the blocks is important for stability.

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carlbernsen t1_ja3xsbu wrote

Reply to comment by Isobelcate in Pls help, bed raiser by Isobelcate

Ok, 25cm is the typical highest bed leg raiser and they tend to rely on being compatible with a specific design of bed leg to attach securely.
For stability, if you don’t have the skills to construct a stable frame under the legs, I’d consider solid blocks of wood 30x30cm.
If you search for those you’ll find them on Etsy, etc. They’re not super cheap (£30 or so) but they’ll last and other sources like timber mills will be cheaper.

A piece of non slip mat under each one and between bed foot and block will keep the bed from gradually sliding over time.

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carlbernsen t1_ja0a5ad wrote

If it’s stuck down in the U bend undo it as already described:
If it’s a big cap and it’s sitting just below the plug hole you’ll need to either: poke it up from below (after undoing the u bend) or poke a hole in it from above and hook it out.
If it’s wet it’ll be very hard to make anything stick to it but if you can get a wire coat hanger and undo the twisted ends you can heat the end with a lighter and poke it straight down through the plastic cap. Then twist it so the wiggly end goes in like a corkscrew and pull the cap out.

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carlbernsen t1_j5pll4u wrote

This sounds like a scam.
How much insulation is in the attic floor?
A cold loft has floor insulation and lots of ventilation to keep the moisture rising from the house below moving outside. There should be a gap along the top of cavity walls and a draught blowing through the loft.
A warm loft is insulated under the rafters with air moving around the timbers above the insulation.
Insulation under the tiles with air blowing around the open loft space defeats the object.
One advantage though, would be to reduce heat transfer through the roof in summer.

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carlbernsen t1_j5mcng5 wrote

I’d use either JB Weld or high temp oven door silicone in the hole.
If using JB Weld etc and you want to be able to remove the screw in future, use a toothpick to spread a layer inside the hole, lightly oil the screw and wind it in, compacting the JB weld around the top of the hole so it’s a good fit. Leave to set. The screw can be unscrewed leaving a new thread because the resin won’t stick to the oil.
Same with the silicone but the thread won’t be as strong.

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carlbernsen t1_iy40wjs wrote

Reading up on it there doesn’t seem to be a special trick, just push the spindle lock button and twist anti clockwise.
However, keyless chucks do sometimes bind and one trick is to tap the end of the drill bit sharply with a hammer. Obviously this might damage the end of the bit, so wear safety glasses.

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