It looks more mid to late 80s to me. That plymouth reliant, or whatever k-car it is could be 81-89. The jacket looks later 80s.

I'd put the chances at way less than 100%. I don't even think it's likely. The country is full of brainwashed morons who actually believe they are a superpower, Ukrainians want to be "liberated", and a whole bunch of obviously false bullshit. The smart ones have either left the country or are silent out of fear. People don't work that way. If you present them with evidence that runs counter to their worldview, they will just double down and dismiss it. Putin will just offer up some alternate reality where the whole war isn't his fault, blame the west and/or something else, prepare for round 2, and the brainwashed masses will eat it up. There is also the issue of no alternatives. Everyone who has any slight chance has blood on their hands with the war.

Putin gets overthrown when the war impacts average Russians ability to support their basic needs, when they can't afford to buy food. Nothing even close to that has happened yet. It may not. But that's what it will take.

I am in Michigan where everyone has a basement and they are commonly finished. I did one myself:

I framed my walls 1" off the walls with a pressure treated bottom plate and installed fiberglass insulation with no vapor barrier. You do NOT want a vapor barrier, you want the walls to breath. A vapor barrier will trap water behind it and cause mold. With the insulation being off the wall it will not get wet or damp so no worries. If I was to do it over again I'd use rock wool insulation instead as that doesn't mold if it gets wet. That said in the 10 years I lived in that house after finishing the basement I never had any issues and no musty smells etc that you commonly encounter with incorrectly done basements.

Even if your basement is dry now it will eventually get wet. You need to do everything you can now to prevent it. It happened to me, I had a spot the carpet got very wet 10 feet into the room during a heavy rain. Basements of that era, 70s-80s, it's common for the tie rods to rust out over time and water to leak in via the rod holes. Mine were not leaking when I finished the basement. To fix it I pulled the carpet and pad up and dried it all out with box fans right away. The pad was anti microbial and the carpet nylon so it dried very fast but I continued to run the fans for several days to be sure. To fix the rod holes I took a section of drywall down ~3 feet off the floor and found 2 next to each other leaking. I knocked the whole bottom row out and just plugged them all regardless. The installation was not wet, water leaked down the wall and under the bottom plate and didn't touch it. Regardless insulation is cheap so I just replaced it all in that area just in case. I installed new drywall, patched and painted it, and put the carpet back down. Annoying but an easy a very cheap repair and impossible to tell anything happened. Had I put installation against the wall I would have had a lot more work finding and repairing them. After that no more problems. Next time I would just hire a pro to come out and plug all my spots with tie rods before the walls are up to avoid any potential issues. Also check valves on all your floor drains in case those back up. Have your drain lines snaked and camera inspected. Install a drain pan on your water heater and humifier if you don't have a floor drain nearby the water will naturally flow to if there us a leak so it doesn't leak into your finished space. Upgrade your shut off valves to ball valves if you can and install frost free faucets for your hose bibs. Outside make sure your grading slopes away from the house and your downspouts are getting water away from the foundation.

As far as the floor went I did carpet in most of mine for comfort. I got the thickest anti microbial pad I could get (suggested for basements) directly over the concrete and it was very comfortable. I tiled a room too. There I painted on a rubberized coating to isolate the tile from any moment in the concrete and avoid cracking. If I had the ceiling height to lose a few inches I would have considered installing a snap together subfloor that had plastic channels on the bottom to allow water to flow to the floor drains in any got under it.

If I had a brand new home I would be a lot less concerned with water getting in through the walls as they use plastic tie rods now and are a lot better a water proofing. Same with the floors as there will be insulation under it. In that case I would still frame 1" off the wall and have someone come in and spray foam the walls right up into the rim joists. The reason I like spray foam over ridgid foam and tape is that the spray foam really gets into all the cracks and air seals the whole thing up. That keeps the bugs and critters out as well. A little more expensive but worth it in my opinion.

One area of my basement was also my woodshop. I left that area unfinished. I insulated and drywalled and painted the two walls separating it from the living space. Mostly to keep noise transmission down. The concrete walls I just painted, and I also sprayed the open joists/ceiling with white paint to lighten things up. I had a supply line for my forced air HVAC in there but no return that could suck up dust. That shop served me well until I had kids. At that point I couldn't work down there very often because of the noise. In the living area I finished I put insulation for sound proofing in the ceiling and drywalled the ceiling too. ( drop ceilings I'd have lost some height). That helped a lot but noise still traveled. If I could I would finish the work shop space too. There was a big temp difference between the finished/unfinished areas and noise control would have been better but still far for ideal. I eventually solved that issue by moving to a new home where I have a heated/cooled outbuilding that's soundproofed for my shop that I can work in at any time day or night without bothering anyone.