inkseep1

inkseep1 t1_jb3njfj wrote

There seems to be 2 schools of thought on that. Either tile under the base cabinets or tile around cabinets. I prefer tile under cabinets. If you ever replace them with new cabinets then you have the tile in place and there will not be a risk of a gap that has to be filled in. Some say tile under the appliances like the dishwasher but around the cabinet bases. If you do that then the dishwasher sets higher than the cabinets so there might not be room under the countertop. If you don't tile under the cabinets or dishwasher then the dishwasher sets down in a little well so it might be harder to get it back out from under the countertop since there will be a lip there. It might depend on your dishwasher height.

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inkseep1 t1_ja9cjzz wrote

I can't see your pictures. Is everyone afraid of a little dust and mold? I have torn out plenty of plaster and mold while using appropriate PPE (paper dust mask, t-shirt, jeans, shoes, and gloves) and nothing bad happened. Rip it out, throw it in the regular trash. Put your drywall right over the studs.

By the way, even if the ceiling is cracked plaster, you can drywall right over top of it. No need to remove it. Put furring strips on the ceiling across the joists. Put up the drywall on the strips. Extend your light fixture boxes to the new surface. If it is a tall ceiling, no one will miss the inch of height.

When you rent the house you give the tenant a lead hazard disclosure form. There are options of you saying you know there is lead, or you don't know if there is lead. If you test it and there is lead then you know. Or you can just check the 'I don't know box.' Either way they get a pamphlet that says that lead is bad. The main thing is that your exposed paint has to be free from chips, peeling, and cracks. I have never seen an inspector, including a HUD inspector, actually test for lead paint.

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inkseep1 t1_ja80p8e wrote

You still need to put trim around the finished door after you put in drywall. There isn't a reason that trim cannot be extra thick. You could put up the drywall, add 2x material or whatever makes up the gap and then add the normal trim on top of that. Then you just paint like normal and the casual observer will not really pay much attention to how it was done. It will look fine from my house.

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inkseep1 t1_j9qco8p wrote

That window looks like a vinyl window. Somewhere on it will be sticker that shows the maker, serial number, and the size. You find that and order a new replacement sash and put it in. I can't tell from the picture what version of window you have. It might be under warranty and you get a free sash due to 'seal failure'. Depends on who made it.

It is very unlikely that the little crack on the inner glass of a double pane window is going to cause much cold air to leak in. It is more likely coming from around the window due to poor insulation when it was put in. Can't tell because the picture does not show the entire installation.

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inkseep1 t1_j247lcz wrote

I hate these filthy Neutrals, Kiff. With enemies you know where they stand but with Neutrals, who knows. It sickens me.

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inkseep1 t1_j0t5scr wrote

This is good that it works there.

But my state made a law so gun buybacks won't work here. The government doing the buyback must offer them for sale to at least 2 gun dealers before destroying the guns that the dealers do not want. The working guns will just get resold again.

This is the relevant law:

Surrendering a firearm to a political subdivision, valuable consideration prohibited, exceptions. — No county, municipality, or other governmental body, or an agent of a county, municipality, or other governmental body, may participate in any program in which individuals are given a thing of value in exchange for surrendering a firearm to the county, municipality, or other governmental body unless:

  (1) The county, municipality, or governmental body has adopted a resolution, ordinance, or rule authorizing the participation of the county, municipality, or governmental body, or participation by an agent of the county, municipality, or governmental body, in such a program; and

  (2) The resolution, ordinance, or rule enacted pursuant to this section provides that any firearm received shall be offered for sale or trade to a licensed firearms dealer. The proceeds from any sale or gains from trade shall be the property of the county, municipality, or governmental body. Any proceeds collected under this subdivision shall be deposited with the municipality, county, or governmental body unless the proceeds are collected by a sheriff, in which case the proceeds shall be deposited in the county sheriff's revolving fund under section 50.535 . Any firearm remaining in the possession of the county, municipality, or governmental body after the firearm has been offered for sale or trade to at least two licensed firearms dealers may be destroyed.

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inkseep1 t1_iwcmxuw wrote

You can cut the valve off the PEX line. At various big box stores you can get sharkbite or other push to connect valves that will go right onto PEX so you don't have to use any PEX crimping tools. the push to connect are removable so you can replace it if that one breaks someday. Since it is under the sink and exposed, you will be able to see if there are any problems with the fitting. Some people do not like to enclose push to connect fittings inside walls.

I personally dislike PEX and push to connect. I would really prefer copper lines and good olde solder and threaded connections. But progress happens.

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inkseep1 t1_iuibypc wrote

First, you program a fix for the broken bulb. You put the changed code in github. Then you add it to the non-prod install schedule. Once it is installed in all 4 non-prod environments you have QA test that the bulb will work under various switch orientations. You then get approval from the business user and 3 levels of management and then . . . wait 2 weeks for the next Prod install cycle.

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