mqtpqt

mqtpqt t1_jeevxtt wrote

coz using EQ and managing sound reflections/dampening backwaves/finding optimum damping factor for the driver are two different things.

Else your headphones would sounds like a mess; your headphone would resonate and have a cancellation effect.

u/oratory1990 please do enlighten us

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mqtpqt t1_je9riux wrote

>My black label is pushed too much with this headphone

are you sure? what gain mode are you using?

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i used to own one (not with the hd800s) but im pretty sure the ifi has enough power for most headphone even on the lowest gain setting

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mqtpqt t1_jdmdw0h wrote

> uses proprietary cable for power.

the may is sold with a power supply unit, that takes a normal IEC cable

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>uses the same 1 cent part from china

then you haven't seen the May's BOM (not that i agree with the price, but its definitely not from china); Rubycon ZLH caps, Panasonic FC, Vishay Caps

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mqtpqt t1_jabrf1d wrote

mmcx has 2 semi-circle looking metal pieces that are (arguably) more fragile than 2pin pic for reference:

i haven't heard anything about 64A stuff breaking (coz I don't keep up with those) but I have tried both, and I'd recommend swapping a cable to something more ergonomic for both regardless.

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mqtpqt t1_jab5fmw wrote

impressions of the andro emerald sea isn't the same sound as the andro 2020, might also want to consider that as well.

also u12t and andros are in different price brackerts; i'd decide what budget/range you really want to explore before choosing what you want.

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p.s: mmcx has its problems as well; id honestly go for 2pin since its more rugged.

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mqtpqt t1_j9m94jg wrote

pads are considered a "perishable" (for the lack of a better word); I'd replace pads on used headphones regardless.

also if you ever find the treble too bright, SDR mod. It's basically the same thing Sennheiser does to get the hd800 to hd800s, minus the paint job and 600 dollar markup. DIY only tho, so it's up to you whether you wanna do it or not

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mqtpqt t1_j9lwfz8 wrote

depending on topology, but it boils down to output impedance, 2nd order harmonic distortion, or a combination of both.

p.s: from what I've tried, the higher you go, the less "tubey" tube amps sound; they sound less stereotypical warm and more solid-state like. Common misconception about tubes is that they can sound slow, which is not the case at all.

If you are interested in getting a more tube-y sound, WA22 might be an option. Totally depends on your headphones tho

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mqtpqt t1_j9jwd3n wrote

>But aren't the drivers on a cheap headphones and drivers on a costly headphones the same?

Does that mean that 2 cars with the same engine perform the same?
The driver material/type doesn't tell you anything about how a headphone would sound (with certainty).

>What determines the "Attack Speed" of the drivers?

this is a myth that can easily be debunked by looking at impulse response measurements of different headphones; those headphones who are said to be "fast" have similar results as those with "slow" drivers.

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