To add to that— Teflon tape is also not appropriate for compression connections like a garden hose style connection of typical American fixture supply hoses.

I rented a camera snake and locator wand at my Home Depot last Saturday— 4 hours for roughly 225 dollars.

I think most people who are ride or die for the iPhone are deep in the ecosystem of products that are designed to work well with the iPhone. My watch, PC, tablet, smart home speakers, streaming device, and wireless headphones are all apple products.

It’s definitely about the ecosystem and not being particularly interested in android’s unique features for me.

Kinda depends on the hinges, and how the door is designed to rest within the box of the cabinet. Pics, as always, would help.

There might be hinge adjustments you can make, or you might be able to add a magnetic closure to the non-hinge size of the door.

Ya that’s what I meant, and is one of the normal ways of installing drawer slides in a cabinet with face frames. 👍🏻

If you can’t come up with a solution, it would not be the end of the world, imo, to just get a new pair of under mount drawer slides with their corresponding brackets.

The question is— what is this bracket doing that wood and screws alone cannot do?

It would be easier to just pack out the back of the cabinet with wood of a particular thickness, and attach the drawer slides to that.

Structurally it should be fine. It’s almost definitely aggressively screwed into framing.

They’re a retake nuisance to install many fans on for a couple of reasons though. I’ve never had good luck with fans that had big radio receivers that come with remote control fans. There’s just too many wires to fit within the space of the pancake box.

Technically, according to the electrical code, that 4 inch pancake box is too small to accommodate 3 conductors plus ground, but it’s a bit of the code that’s routinely ignored.

If I had to guess, I’d say that the 2x8s are just there to make door installation easier for the carpenter, but without being there, I can’t guarantee that.

If your lintel (metal header) doesn’t span from block to block, then your wooden post is structural, and cannot be removed without installing a longer lintel.

Does iOS 16 ruin the image processing for phones other than the 14pro?

It’s not all software, it’s how the software is designed to use the hardware. You can’t talk about one without the other with apple.

I’ve never had a call back for buckling floors from installing floating floors under cabinetry. 🤷🏽

Both ditra and kerdi board require at least a 2x2 tile to get the warranty from schluter. Both substrates aren’t stiff enough to resist the point load that could result from weight on small tiles.

When you get bigger tiles, the tiles themselves, and the thicker thinset bed, make for a stiffer assembly.

My normal go to is Zinsser Bin, which is a shellac primer with an alcohol base. Very runny and stinky, but dries sandable in like 30 minutes.

Last time I did cabinet doors I tried stix by insl-x, which is a water base, and dries about as fast, and is equally sandable, which I love.

Bin is available at most home improvment stores, insl-x is available where Benjamin Moore paints are sold.

Don’t trust products that say “paint and primer in one”

A good bonding primer should have been your second to last step.

Stuff like redguard is rated as a crack isolation layer.

You could also use a purpose made crack isolation layer like crack buster that’s rated for mosaic tiles.

https://www.custombuildingproducts.com/TDS/TDS-103.pdf

I would ask myself the question “why is there air movement there?” first.

It’s easier to get consistent glue coverage. Basically the ame reason why they don’t sell thinset in tubes.

Ask the person selling it to you what adhesive the manufacturer recommends.

It’ll be a flooring adhesive, but (hopefully) it’ll be trowelable and sold by the bucket, which I prefer over liquid nails.

And yeah, pin nail to hold it while the glue cures would be nice.

I think it depends on what you consider a professional job. There are professional repainters who use airless or air assisted airless and water borne paints, especially for repaints of cabinets already in kitchens.

You can get outrageous glossy finishes with a brush on furniture if you know what you’re doing and use the right product.

There’s learning curves and techniques to pick up for different paints and materials— what I’m trying to say is you need to figure out what kind of paint you plan on using, which is a question of how much space you’re willing to devote to painting and drying, whether you’re going to construct a paint booth— stuff like that.

This isn’t a “there’s a right answer, and a bunch of half-measures” kind of situation where all pros do one thing all the time, and everything else is for idiots.

You need to figure out what paint you’re spraying.

Hvlp guns are better suited for very thin, very hard, solvent borne paints like lacquers.

If you want to spray water borne paint, you’re probably better off spraying with an airless.

If you’re truly set on spraying with an HVLP, you’re better off buying a multistage turbine setup like a Fuji — compressors that can sustain the CFM you need are EXPENSIVE, and you’ll still need a dewatering system

I know, but it’s easier to make the connection in the room, rather than pushing rigid duct from the dryer through the wall and knowing what length it’s needs to be to get the dryer vent to sit flush on the wall.

At the home center, you’ll find dryer vents generally come with a (approximately ) foot long metal 4 inch round duct that attaches to the vent. You pass that through the wall, screw the vent to the exterior of the house, and foil tape the part poking into your laundry room to your dryer duct (which can be flexible ducting as long as it’s not inside a wall.

Just close it up.