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edhitchon1993 t1_jan9npb wrote

Top comment over there pretty much nails it. Putting my quality management auditor hat on, quality does not mean high end, it means fitness for purpose and meeting customer expectations, take designer dresses for example - some require the wearer to be sewn in, their expected service life may be just one evening, but they are undeniably high quality- they meet the wearer's needs and expectations exactly.

If your definition of low quality clothing is clothing which falls apart after a few uses, then by definition higher quality clothing lasts longer or wears better.

You don't have to pay through the nose for clothing which lasts, and you should never trust a brand or price point as evidence that an item will last. Things like higher thread counts, stronger stitching, higher quality zips, appropriate warp and weft of fabrics for their application will make for longer lasting clothing.

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The_BusterKeaton t1_jao97az wrote

Piggybacking off of this, I think that the average person treats items they spend more money on with more care.

Higher end stores have maintenance supplies available for purchase while you would never see leather conditioner in H&M near their shoes and purses. It reminds people that longevity is a byproduct of care.

A wool sweater will shrink in the dryer whether it’s $30 or $3,000, but if you spend $3,000 you’re going to triple check that tag before you wash it.

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FamiliarWin4833 t1_jap1oh5 wrote

This is so true. Also, modern washers/dryers likely have contributed significantly to clothing not lasting as long. People wash clothing more often now because it is easier to do.

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cannotrememberold t1_japhjvn wrote

No offense, but I doubt this. The material and stitching of some shirts I have from the 90s is just vastly more durable than anything you can buy today. I have some Nutmeg Mills and Galt Sand shirts and sweatshirts. That stuff is bomb proof.

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FamiliarWin4833 t1_jar1c6x wrote

What are you doubting? I didn’t say that material is less durable.. I said that washing machines and dryers are harder on clothing than hand washing.

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cannotrememberold t1_jardqrb wrote

Your premise that people wash more than they used to. If we are talking 100 years, sure, but the diminished lifespan of most clothing has happened over the last 20-30 years, and ease of washing is likely not the culprit in that.

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FamiliarWin4833 t1_jarjmy3 wrote

I actually was thinking a longer period of time than from the 90’s until now. Not sure when the washer & dryer were invented, but I would guess they go back further than the 90’s. Also I think it depends what kind of clothing you’re referring to, sure coats and sweatshirts hold up pretty well and probably always have, but that isn’t the case with underwear or some of the clothing made of finer fabrics.

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NotAnAd2 t1_jaojk70 wrote

Also when it comes to the world of clothing, the materials are really a minimal piece of the cost. A big portion is the labor that goes into it. Wool sweater of the same material may still range wildly (say, $100 vs $400) because of the ethical labor practices that they take. And sometimes it’s really just because of a brand name and their labor practices still suck.

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homewithplants t1_jaoq4sd wrote

This is important. Price tells you very little about the quality of the clothing you are buying.

In an ironic twist, the best way to really assess what you are getting is to examine it closely in person, yet the fairly-priced, high-quality clothing mostly comes from direct to consumer brands that sell exclusively online or at best, in a handful of tiny boutiques in New York, London, and Paris.

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___PM_ME_YOUR_FEET_ t1_jao84ix wrote

Where does one find this information to assess clothing before purchasing? Where do you get thread count info as well as the other metrics you listed?

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maybenomaybe t1_jap7lxk wrote

I work in luxury clothing production. This sort of information isn't typically available to the public, but it exists. In terms of fabric, every textile we use has a technical data sheet we get from the mill that weaves it. That sheet has a ton of things on it including weight, colour fastness, warp and weft shrinkage etc etc. Construction details are in the tech pack for every garment, these are put together by the brand's product development/production team, people like me. It's a blueprint for how we want the factory to make the garment - seam types, fusing, linings etc. One of these documents is called the BOM or Bill of Materials and contains every little thing that goes into the garment right down to thread type. Some brands (good ones) have very detailed tech packs and BOMs and carefully control their garment quality, others are very basic and allow the factory to make a lot of decisions. Again, these documents are proprietary work product and not available to the consumer.

You can educate yourself on things like seam types and construction methods by looking at books on sewing and tailoring. Most of these are for home sewists and don't use industrial methods but will still give you some guidance on how to identify higher quality finishings.

A word on price. High price does not always indicate high quality but a low price always indicates either low quality materials/construction, or inhumane labour practices. It is simply not possible to make a tshirt for $5 with good materials and construction and pay people fairly to make it. We audit every supplier we work with and I visit our factories multiple times a year. They are clean, safe, decent places to work. We produce our own fabrics and I've been to the Italian mill that makes it. One of their print machines is literally the size of a small flat and cost €2 million. Quality costs money.

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edhitchon1993 t1_jaoc0qn wrote

Some manufacturers list these details (thread count or weight per area), some will answer if asked, but for most it's a case of making a personal comparative assessment based on known good items, or knowing specific tell tales for certain items.

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___PM_ME_YOUR_FEET_ t1_jaodrzg wrote

I was afraid of that lol. Based on your comment above, it sounded like there were actual, objective ways to determine quality vs. guessing…lol oh well.

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edhitchon1993 t1_jaoi89r wrote

There are objective measures, but your requirements are different to my requirements and so you'll need to build on your experience to know what these are.

It's not quite guessing to take a known good item (I use my Rapanui t-shirts as a yardstick) and compare that to unknown goods to make a suitably assessment.

I wear moleskin trousers because I find them very hard wearing and their water resistant and tight weave qualities are good for cycling. An objective measure I use is to buy 250gsm or above fabric, it makes for heavy trousers but it suits my needs. If I were somewhere hot that measure would be useless because they would be too insulative to be fit for purpose, I'd be looking at lighter weight fabrics and need to find my own metrics.

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___PM_ME_YOUR_FEET_ t1_jaojrrx wrote

Ok but if the requirement is durability or “shelf life” so to speak…like what do you look at to guage quality and durability? Heavy vs light for different climates is much easier to assess so I’m not worried about that. I’m saying like, what do you look at to guage whether or not a piece of clothing is likely to fall apart after 3 dozen washes vs something that is likely to last many years? For example, I go through jeans like nobodys business. I’ve tried spending more for “quality name brands” and choose jeans that feel really thick and solid and go with what feels high quality, but they just fall apart and I’m tired of spending $60+ per pair of jeans every 4-6 months.

So what are the objective metrics I can look at to determine what is better quality and will last longer?

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edhitchon1993 t1_jaoqz0m wrote

Sorry, I gave up on denim as I found it too susceptible to thorns and I grew tired of darning, although it is a very forgiving fabric to repair.

You'll be looking for a higher weight fabric and a high number of stitches per inch, but I don't know what numbers those should be.

If your wearing through in particular areas because your body shape isn't what jeans are designed around (I cycle so really struggle with thigh fit) you might benefit from buying a size up and getting them tailored to your actual shape.

I've been lead to believe that denim is particularly sensitive about how it's washed so you might want to look at that aspect too.

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___PM_ME_YOUR_FEET_ t1_jaovg8h wrote

But where do you get the info about fabric weight and stitches per inch? I could figure out which numbers suit me if I new where to find the numbers in the first place. I could just test higher vs lower numbers and find what lasts, but I don’t know how to get that information.

It’s not my body shape. I do alot of welding/grinding and mechanical work so my clothes take a beating, but more than anything, it seems my jeans always fail in the pockets. The worst is when they start coming apart right in the corner of the back pocket, leaving me with a hole in the butt of my pants, cause then I literally can’t wear them anymore lol.

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edhitchon1993 t1_jaowkf5 wrote

Ask an expert. I got talking to a tailor in a beer tent which is how I stumbled into moleskins.

Welding and grinding are going to put a lot of strain on any material, I wear overclothes when I am metal working these days for that reason.

Arse pockets failing isn't something I have had with denim, but I've holed some chinos that way, for work clothes (actually for general wear to be honest) you can often darn holes like that pretty invisibily.

Sorry I can't be more helpful.

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___PM_ME_YOUR_FEET_ t1_jap1yvm wrote

All good, just sounded like you maybe had something with the stitches per inch and whatnot. I appreciate you responding though.

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CaptainSwaggerJagger t1_jas1cx0 wrote

Out of interest, have you watched project farms video on jeans? He does extensive testing on products (usually tools) but he did jeans recently and one test was which pair had the greatest resistance to back pockets tearing off and not all ripped a hole in the trousers when the pocket failed

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___PM_ME_YOUR_FEET_ t1_jasaapb wrote

No but that’s a great idea, I honestly never thought of that! I’ve seen a couple of his vids but never even thought to seek him out for this. I’ll have to look into that, thanks!

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AlwaysQueso t1_japxf17 wrote

I would start internet searching “textiles for jeans”, “textiles for work pants”; “traditional textiles fabrics for workwear”. You’re likely to get apparel design resources / leads on the type of fabric and what characteristics a manufacturer of workwear is looking for and then you could narrow down brands.

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Ella0508 t1_jap2pca wrote

There are, but you need some knowledge of fabric, design and sewing/manufacturing techniques to be able to assess them. Get into conversations with salespeople in high-end stores. Or in a local boutique that features and promotes designers in the area. Many of those salespeople and shop owners have studied fashion (at least fashion merchandising), clothing design and/or textiles. They’ll share knowledge while, yes, trying to sell you designer goods. But “designer” doesn’t have to mean “label.”

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___PM_ME_YOUR_FEET_ t1_jap7e3h wrote

Ehh I dunno that’s the route I’d go. I can’t trust anything a salesperson steers me toward. They’ll tell you anything to get you to buy. Their goal isn’t to sell you the objectively best, but instead whatever they make the highest margin on.

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Ella0508 t1_japcm58 wrote

Not necessarily, and not if you engage them in good conversation. And you don’t have to buy anything, just ask them “You say this is a high-quality fabric/construction — how do you tell?

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___PM_ME_YOUR_FEET_ t1_japgq4g wrote

I have a hard time engaging in good conversation with people that are so disingenuous and only talking with you to work an angle and get your money. I could ask how they can tell quality and I won’t know if they’re being honest or just telling me things that reinforce their pitch for the stuff they want to sell to me.

Maybe if I happened to already be friends with somebody that was a high-end clothing salesperson that I could just have a straight conversation with instead of being sold to, but yeah, you can’t actually trust anything a salesperson is telling you. Their entire job is to tell you whatever they have to tell you to make a sale.

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gazzadelsud t1_jcm37cr wrote

Quite right, I remember doing a class a few years ago while doing training. Expensive fashion is expected to be worn 10 times max. 1 season and done. Marks and spencers underwear is expected to be used till it wears out. So is always durable.

I have a lovely harris tweed jacket I bought on ebay, had it adjusted for me, I expect it will need relining in a year or so, I also expect it to last my lifetime and beyond.

ts not always about price, but also about purpose.

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