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davethompson413 t1_jaiqshv wrote

Instead of overcutting on the underside, undercut the length of each cut. Finish with a good quality handsaw.

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bluehat9 t1_jaip8zo wrote

You could make an angled jig for your table saw track and you could make the cuts about 99% of the way and finish with a hand saw to avoid the over cut underneath. You could put a stop block to stop the wood from going too far on the saw

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Steweiler t1_jaiqcri wrote

You can cut them on your table saw using a miter gauge up to a certain point, but you will have to finish the cut with a jigsaw to keep the cut clean.

It may be safer for you to cut the whole thing with a jigsaw and a straightedge.

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[deleted] OP t1_jaisi5g wrote

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Steweiler t1_jaizcml wrote

Understood. Table saw with a zero-clearance insert makes very nice, splinter-free cuts.

I'd process them like this: run all of the rip cuts to a set stop, then change your setup to mitered crosscuts with a set stop. Run all of the mitered crosscuts, then finish off with a jigsaw or a quality hand saw/pull saw like others have mentioned.

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Most-Region8151 t1_jakbdko wrote

Take a piece of wood the same thickness. Mark 2" on your line of cut on top of the board. Cut to the mark. Remove board, flip over and use a square to transfer the end of the kerf to the edge of the board. Do the same with the original 2" mark on top. The distance between the two lines is what you need to hold the top cut back by.

i.e. if the bottom kerf is 2 1/2" you would stop cutting 1/2" before the end. Then finish up with jig saw or whatever.

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age34act12 t1_jajszcg wrote

I guess you could but a circular saw with a good blade will work just as good. Not sure what is going on with the steps design but be careful when using

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SirIsaacGnuton t1_jajtdn3 wrote

Agree with the advice you have so far. You don't give dimensions but that angled cut is definitely going to be more than a 10" blade can give you. Maybe the short cut that joins it is possible with a 10"? I've built jigs for this kind of cut before. You need a solid one to hold a stair tread firmly and vertical.

I see no problem with finishing the cut with a jigsaw with a fresh blade and then taking a wide chisel to clean it up.

If you watch woodworking videos you'll see that no matter how well equipped someone's shop is, they're always pulling out a chisel to clean up a mortise, shoulder cut, or whatever. Chisel skills put you at the next level woodworking wise.

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nhskimaple t1_jajwmsn wrote

So you’re making an alternating tread stair case?

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[deleted] OP t1_jajwxhu wrote

[deleted]

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nhskimaple t1_jajxquv wrote

IRC section 311.7.11 have a read through that.

Brad nails are a monstorous no in this construction. If it’s all of solid wood lean toward white oak or at the least Douglas fir. Through bolt the treads by extending them back to overlap the stringers OR create triangle wedges that are bolted to stringers then downward fasten treads through and plug holes.

There are other suggestions on cutting I’d recommend the table saw undercut and then Japanese hand saw or standard very sharp handsaw to finish. Cutting all this is the easy part the assembly is what will take a long time.

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