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benkeico t1_ir3krs0 wrote

Ok. I’m a apprentice electrician, and I’m doing a ev class right now. My info might be slightly off but I’m fairly confident.

As far as running 6’s then 8’s yes. It works. I wouldn’t use a junction box. I would use a disconnect. That’s code where I am.

Now. The big thing here is. Your car charger that you’re installing Is 40 amp, you can’t use a 40amp breaker. Your running continuous load. Your need 125% for overhead. So, If you have a 40amp charger you need a 50 amp breaker.

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Loon610 OP t1_ir3pi4t wrote

Thanks for the help. The charger has adjustable dip switches so it can range from 16, 24,32,40 amp output, with the 40 amp breaker I was going to switch the dip switches to 32 as my current vehicle only takes 14 amps at 240v anyways. The reason for doing a larger rated charger now is my local area has rebates, I will be in the house for 30+ more years so presumably I will have an Ev at some point not just a PHEV, and the circuit is already there from a hot tub (previous owner)I have no desire to replace.

I got a hold of the manufacturer and they said the charger is capable of using 6 gauge. From other posters advice, here is my plan, either keep the 40amp breaker or possibly upgrade to 50amp, NMD 90 6-3 wire to a junction box in garage wall just on the other side of charger carport location, strip jacket (not insulation)of wire, then from the junction box run wire through flexible non metallic conduit straight into charger through the wall into carport where charger is. What’s your thoughts? Any ideas?

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Wellcraft19 t1_ir4l1q7 wrote

You’re good and on the right track. I would just add that you’re not installing a ‘charger’ per se, but a fancy cable hanger.

The dip switches (good) are only there to communicate to the car (where the charger is located) how much current the car is allowed to draw. This so car [charger] does not draw more current than what the [house] infrastructure can support.

Level 2 ‘chargers’ are only a way to safely deliver 208/240 V AC to the car. People get overly hung on this [charger] and often spend far more than what they need. Or are a bit deceived of what the devices actually are and do.

But with a high static load (or high continuous load), it is imperative that all connections are properly done, are tight, as you will be pulling a decently high amperage for extended periods of time, and not like a clothes dryer (a comparable load) that often runs less than an hour, with load switching on and off during the time. A poor connection can easily overheat, leading to further heating. Etc.

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Loon610 OP t1_ir5lswp wrote

Yeah I was reading more about EVSE vs charger yesterday. I didn’t really think of the charger in the car and the “charger” I’m installing is just a power supply. The good thing about the connections are the should be very simple. The connections at the breaker/panel, then straight to the EVSE with no splices and the charger is designed to be hardwired with terminal blocks and a bus bar.

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benkeico t1_ir50edh wrote

Add a disconnect not a junction box. Almost same price but it’s way better. Run number 6 and upgrade your breaker to 50 amp later when you want to run the charger at 40amps. Liquid tight is good, try not to use 90s they suck to pull through.

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