Thanks a lot again for the help, very appreciated. I’m not in the industry so sometimes I worry I’m misunderstanding something or missing something.

If you don’t mind would you be able to look at this article for me and see if you see anything I’m missing. Another poster posted in relation to codes, but it seems they may not apply, he talked about ventilation being required but by the code that applied to indoor charging and carports by code are considered outdoors, this carport is also open on 3 sides so lots of ventilation.

From the article “Rule 86-304 requires that each installation of electric vehicle supply equipment rated at 60 A or more, or more than 150 volts-to-ground be provided with a separate disconnecting means

• on the supply side of the point of connection of the electric vehicle supply equipment • located within sight of and accessible to the electric vehicle supply equipment • capable of being locked in the open position”

I’m not exceeding 60amps or 150 volts to ground right? 240 volt is 120 to ground but each leg.

Another rule from the article, the other posted claimed I would need GFCI citing this rule, it only speaks of receptacles which I’m not installing, I’m surprised it seems to only call for GFCI on 120 volt circuit and does not mention it on 240 volt, but maybe that is indirectly mentioned in the second line where it mentions appropriate CSA configuration?

“Rule 86-306 requires that each receptacle for electric vehicle charging be

• a single receptacle of CSA configuration 5-20R supplied from a 125 V branch circuit rated not less than 20 A, protected by a Class A GFCI if installed outdoors within 2.5 meters of finished grade

• of the appropriate CSA configuration in accordance with Diagram 1 or 2 when supplied from a branch circuit rated at more than 125 V or more than 20 A

• labelled in a conspicuous, legible, and permanent manner, identifying it as an electric vehicle supply equipment receptacle”

Thanks again for the help, anything I’m missing here?

https://electricalindustry.ca/latest-news/4778-guide-to-the-canadian-electrical-code-part-i-instalment-42

Thanks a lot for the info, I will have to post in there.

I’m surprised about the Grizzl-e catching fire. Every time I see someone doing a review they are raving about how over built and industrial grade it is. I guess these could just be paid reviews. Any EVSE you would recommend that could be hardwired? I liked the idea of Grizzl-e since it’s made in Canada which is rare to find as a Canadian, but I prefer the idea of zero fires more.

Yeah I was reading more about EVSE vs charger yesterday. I didn’t really think of the charger in the car and the “charger” I’m installing is just a power supply. The good thing about the connections are the should be very simple. The connections at the breaker/panel, then straight to the EVSE with no splices and the charger is designed to be hardwired with terminal blocks and a bus bar.

Okay, thanks for the advice.

Thanks a lot again, I’ve been diving into the codes now. I found this article which is a good source but seems older. https://vancouver.ca/files/cov/EV-deplioyment-guidelines.pdf Looks like I’ve got lots of reading to do haha. I’ve got to apply for the permit through Technical Safety BC, any experience with them, just wondering how responsive and helpful they would be to emails and questions.

Thanks this is great info since you’re from BC. It is copper wire.

Couple questions. I’d like to keep as much in the garage as possible to keep the outside looking tidy, the setup is basically a garage next to a carport, same size and direction just a wall between them, on the opposite wall where the charger will go in the garage is the main service panel.

If the charger has a GFCI and is hardwired, I still need to wire in another GFCI, I know this is the case with the use of a plug and receptacle because who knows what someone will plug in, but I thought I could avoid this by hardwiring to ensure non gfci equipment are not used.

If I did wire the charger so it is mounted in the garage where the service panel is would the breaker on the panel count as disconnect within sight? I thought about this option to keep it out of sight/tidy and prevent theft. But with this case would any codes be violated if I passed the charger to vehicle cable through the wall dividing the garage and carport, so the only thing on the exterior is the vehicle charging lead with the controller on the inside of the garage.

Thanks again for the help, thanks for citing the rules, it’s very helpful, much appreciated.

Thanks, company stated no neutral needed. It’s a Grizzl-e charger.

Thanks for the idea, I think I will still come in from the bottom though to avoid the 180 turn with conduit or armoured cable to get in the charger, they say it can be mounted upside down inside but then it’s not guaranteed waterproof. Lordco eh, I see you’re a fellow BC’er haha.

So my plan is either keep the 40amp breaker or possibly upgrade to 50amp, NMD 90 6-3 wire to a junction box in garage wall just on the other side of charger carport location, strip jacket (not insulation)of wire, then from the junction box run wire through flexible non metallic conduit straight into charger through the wall into carport where charger is. What’s your thoughts? Any ideas? Also some have pointed out some jurisdictions require a disconnect switch wired in the circuit, I’m in the Okanagan so we just follow provincial code we don’t have city specific codes like Vancouver. I know disconnects are required for air conditioners here, do you know anything about them for EVS?

Thanks a lot for the info this has been very helpful. Just want to run one last thing by you. To clear two things up, the run from the panel to the charger will be up on wall of a garage, through the attic, down the other wall, so I will be going through the top plate not the sill plate. Also the junction box would be inside the garage, I plan on knocking out some drywall and having the junction box exposed to the inside of the garage, then running the conduit from there, so the only thing that should be exposed to the elements is the flexible conduit, the hole it passes though, and the charger what is suppose to be water proof when mounted in the correct orientation. So two questions, no problem going through the attic and down the walls right? Also the NMD being in the attic and on the interior of the garage wall would count as dry interior application, not a wet one right.

The company said 6 gauge is okay to run, and thanks to your advice I think, I will use this as my plan. Either keep the 40amp breaker or possibly upgrade to 50amp, NMD 90 6-3 wire to a junction box in garage wall just on the other side of charger carport location, strip jacket (not insulation)of wire, then from the junction box run wire through flexible non metallic conduit straight into charger through the wall into carport where charger is. What’s your thoughts? Thanks again for the help, you’ve been very informative.

It is copper, thanks for the heads up though.

Thanks for the help. The charger has adjustable dip switches so it can range from 16, 24,32,40 amp output, with the 40 amp breaker I was going to switch the dip switches to 32 as my current vehicle only takes 14 amps at 240v anyways. The reason for doing a larger rated charger now is my local area has rebates, I will be in the house for 30+ more years so presumably I will have an Ev at some point not just a PHEV, and the circuit is already there from a hot tub (previous owner)I have no desire to replace.

I got a hold of the manufacturer and they said the charger is capable of using 6 gauge. From other posters advice, here is my plan, either keep the 40amp breaker or possibly upgrade to 50amp, NMD 90 6-3 wire to a junction box in garage wall just on the other side of charger carport location, strip jacket (not insulation)of wire, then from the junction box run wire through flexible non metallic conduit straight into charger through the wall into carport where charger is. What’s your thoughts? Any ideas?

Thanks for the input. It’s a Grizzl-e charger. It has a max charge amperage of 40 amps, which would require a 50 amp breaker. The charger has dip switches which can be set to max amps of 16,24,32 or 40 amps. The vehicle is plug in hybrid so it only asks for an input amperage of about 14.2 amps, so I was going to set the dip switch at 24 amps just to be save, although I do believe the manual says to set them at you rated breaker which would be 40 amp breaker and 32 amp dip switch. I’m happy to keep it at 32 amps max charge because even if we got another ev r phev that could handle more amperage, from my understanding the higher amperages are not good for the batteries, and it being a home charger 32 amp would be more than enough to top off or add to what our daily use would be, we would have to be doing long road trips daily to have need for faster charging at home. The reason I want to install now, is there is government rebates to do so, we plan on staying in the home for decades to come and don’t see EVs becoming more common and why not take the rebate now, because 5 years they probably won’t offer it.

The wire will run from the panel up the wall, into the attic and down the wall on the other side of the garage. That wall is shared between garage and carport and the charger will be on the carport side. The issue with going straight into the charger is the design of the charge requires to sit on the wall not in it, and the input only comes in from the bottom. The panel was an upgraded one and added after the house was built, so it sits on the old siding not flush in the wall, funny enough some the NMD wire they installed is just stapled against the old wood siding in the garage (I believe it was a carport and someone enclosed it), so then would that NDM be to code. An electrician did do the work as far as I know, they didn’t some bigger renovations when the house service was upgraded to 200amp.

https://grizzl-e.com/home-products/

I’m not in the USA, I’m Canadian. I don’t see why someone shouldn’t be able too, like I said I have to pull a permit, someone from the Provincial Technical Safety will come and inspect my work, before I can flip the breaker. If I hired someone there would be no inspection, electricians can pull their own permits and do not require inspections, and as a Red Seal Tradesperson myself, I can tell you just because someone is a Red Seal doesn’t mean they do the job right, maybe they were taught wrong, maybe they just make it work with the materials they have, maybe they are in a rush. One thing I can tell you is no one cares about your home more than you do, and if you hire every job out you will eventually have butchers show up to your house. I’m not an expert, but I do make sure to double check all my work, and if I’m unsure I ask and research, I’ve actually been to my local library to look up codes because they have building codes on hand free to use there. I couldn’t do this work if I lived in a apartment or duplex, only a detached home and I can only do it to a home I live in, not even a home I own and rent. The regulations are strict but good, someone should be free to work on their own home if they can have their work inspected, and if you think every certified person will do the job right, they won’t and if every homeowner will apply for a permit and do they work properly, they won’t. It’s best to try to learn as much as you can from roofing to auto repair, because you need to know when you’re getting taken for a ride, because it will happen.

Thanks for the input. I have to reroute the 6-3. It’s about twice as much wire as I need. I managed to get a hold of the charger manufacturer and they said 6 gauge is okay. I was going to run the non metallic water tight flexible conduit from the vinyl siding to the charger about 2 feet. So no one would frown upon stripping the jacket on the NMD 90 at the start of the conduit and running it like that which would be more flexible. How tight of a bend radius could I put into NMD 90 6-3, I measured it slightly under 3/4 inch diameter, I read I could 5x the diameter as a radius. So I could put a 3.75” radius bend into wire? I know bending too tight can cause resistance to increase.

That sounds like Reddit.

Thanks again, I’ve dealt with other inspectors when doing renovations, and some are clueless, the one I’m thinking of is the district inspector when I did my wood stove. When contacting offices that do inspections I have found usually people answering phones are very inexperienced, and the people with the knowledge are out on the road working. Usually when I have met the inspectors that are actually the qualified ones they’re pretty good source of information. It’s just hard talking to these people until they show up to do the inspection. I will have 3 inspections available with my permit until they start to charge me for additional inspections, but I would like to be one and done. I also find these types of projects a great way to learn more, I’ve caught multiple errors in my house from learning from these projects, and as shitty and snarky Reddit can be sometimes there are some very helpful resourceful people, so that’s why I like asking here, that gives me jump off point to read more and then be able to ask more questions when the inspector shows up haha.

Thanks for the input.

Thanks, for the info. That’s the charger I’m looking at, I noticed the owners manual called for 8 gauge, and my understanding has always been unless it stats otherwise that’s what you have to use. I emailed them asking about the 6 gauge, but haven’t got a response. Did you ask them or just wire it up and figure it out that way?

I understand this concern, but there will be no “outlet”, it will run about 30’ from the main panel, to the junction box, and about 1-2 feet from there to the hardwired charger. I’m avoiding a receptacle because then my kids can’t mess with unplug or plug charger in, harder to steal and no need for a new 280 dollar gfci breaker which is need if it’s no hardwired, the charger has a gfci built in, but I understand if it’s receptacle who knows what will be plugged in.

I tried reaching out the company via email no response yet. It’s not far maybe 30’ only trying to use the 6 gauge because it’s already there from the previous owners hot tub.

I understand this concern, but there will be no “outlet”, it will run about 30’ from the main panel, to the junction box, and about 1-2 feet from there to the hardwired charger. I’m avoiding a receptacle because then my kids can’t mess with unplug or plug charger in, harder to steal and no need for a new 280 dollar gfci breaker which is need if it’s no hardwired, the charger has a gfci built in, but I understand if it’s receptacle who knows what will be plugged in.