Weak drill > Non-flush screws > Load??

Submitted by huongdaoroma t3_zyoa3c in DIY

​

https://preview.redd.it/bjaju6idvx8a1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=21e113e6904aa31b8497ae43785e0d736f37c4f2

Hi guys, I just installed a wall-mounted bike rack in my home through the stud (confirmed with stud finder). Rack is rated for 55 lb, but my drill can't produce enough force to get it flush. It looks ugly. My questions:

  1. Will it still hold up to 55 lb with the compromised screwing?
  2. If not, how do I fix this? Do I just have to get a better drill? Running the Hyper Tough 20V 1.5Ah rn

Update: Drill bit broke inside one of the screw holes while pre-drilling after advice. Can it hold 55 lb with only 3 of 4 screws (middle screw not used...)?

7

Comments

You must log in or register to comment.

Academic_Nectarine94 t1_j27cwbk wrote

I think the lesson to ne learned here is to NEVER buy another tool at Walmart that is a Walmart brand, or at all.

Ryobi is great for the money, and you can get bits and things from them, Dewalt, Milwaukee, or makita easily. Bit more money, but you wouldn't have any of the issues you did today.

Also, get an impact driver. They have more torque, don't strip out screws, and are all around better at screw related tasks than drills. Drills are best for drilling holes, but if you're really tight on money CAN be used for screws. They just need a lot more care to work with.

Edit: solution to your problem: get a ryobi drill, a good bit the size you need, and a pack of screws (preferably 2.5" Spax or GRK). Move the mounting point up or down 4" from where you wanted it, and redo it. Patch the place this disaster happened with drywall mud (can get some nice drywall patch from 3M. Fast drying, and is color coded so you know that it is dried.)

14

Pussycat-Papa t1_j28e0mz wrote

Ryobi guy here. Their bits are trash. Get dewalt or Milwaukee bits

4

Academic_Nectarine94 t1_j28pub0 wrote

Yeah, now that I'm thinking, I remember they are LOL. Their bit holders are supposed to be good, though, so you could try them.

3

Pussycat-Papa t1_j2ai58l wrote

Tools are a great bang for the buck. Nothing compares at that price. Bits are absolute shit.

I would also stress to a new diy person that an impact driver is only as good as your bits and hardware. They can tear right thru crappy hardware that often comes included with products. Either stripping or snapping in half. Also there is usually no torque setting so an inexperienced person may go way too deep.

3

Academic_Nectarine94 t1_j2aima4 wrote

True, but you have to learn all of it. Drills are nice if you have a lot of the same thing to screw down. And anything that comes with a product I buy almost always goes in the trash so I forgot about that aspect LOL

2

ClumsyRainbow t1_j2d6pro wrote

Their bits might suck but I did manage to pick up one of their sets for cheap on a sale and for the odd time I need something that I don't otherwise have they are useful.

2

huongdaoroma OP t1_j2blnao wrote

Would the Dewalt DW1361/DW1354 Drill bit set + DWA2T40IR Impact set be compatible with Ryobi ONE+ Drill and Impact (P1817)?

1

huongdaoroma OP t1_j27ekmo wrote

Thanks! Exactly what I needed

2

Academic_Nectarine94 t1_j27kmav wrote

Welcome. Hopefully your walmart thing is still in its return policy, but even I'd it's not, you could ask a manager for a refund under warranty (do so nicely, catching flies with honey and all that.) Even a cheapo drill like that should be able to drive a screw into a stud.

3

Thisguy2728 t1_j26ya53 wrote

It will not hold well like that.

Remove the screws and pre drill with a drill bit slightly smaller than the screw. Try again.

Or manually screw it in the rest of the way

Edit: why was the drill able to sink the bottom screw but not the top? Is the battery dying?

3

huongdaoroma OP t1_j26ypa5 wrote

Can I use the same holes?

1

farmerben02 t1_j26zvop wrote

Yes, he's saying just make the pilot holes a bit larger. Does your drill have a "max" above 15? My Ryobi goes to 15 and the next setting is to not slip the clutch, just have to hang on to avoid twisting your wrist.

2

huongdaoroma OP t1_j271mxm wrote

Update: Drill bit broke inside one of the screw holes while pre-drilling after advice. Can it hold 55 lb with only 3 of 4 screws (middle screw not used...)?

1

Thisguy2728 t1_j27itpt wrote

No, probably not. Is it visible at all? Like protruding from the wall at all? If so, take the broken piece out of the drill and try and retighten the drill on the broken bit in the wall and slowly unscrew.

If you can’t get it out, you’ll need to dig into the drywall to get a better bite on it, or move the mount to a new spot and try again.

When you drill try and make sure you’re holding the drill perpendicular to the wall. Don’t apply pressure from the sides, only straight down.

3

JonJackjon t1_j26zqtd wrote

Was the pre drill size from the mounting instructions?

As suggested I would pre drill deeper, drag the screw across a bar of soap before reinserting it. You might need a hand screwdriver for the last few turns.

3

huongdaoroma OP t1_j271maa wrote

Update: Drill bit broke inside one of the screw holes while pre-drilling after advice. Can it hold 55 lb with only 3 of 4 screws (middle screw not used...)?

2

JonJackjon t1_j27g8oo wrote

I would not venture to take a guess.

However if I were motivated to use only 3 holes I would purchase longer screws in stainless steel. The stainless steel part is important. It approximately doubles the tensile strength.

1

keestie t1_j27ne7o wrote

I work construction. Stainless steel screws are terrible. They snap, bend, and the heads strip far more easily than normal steel. The only use for them is if you really need to avoid corrosion.

3

huongdaoroma OP t1_j27gfi0 wrote

I'll just get drywall mud and redo it again with a Ryobi driver/impact set. Any suggestions for drill bit brands?

1

huongdaoroma OP t1_j2705lh wrote

There actually wasn't a predrill size in the instructions if doing it in drywall>stud. The ones for brick/concrete gave a predrill size that included wall plugs (8mm/0.314 inch drill bit)

1

a2_d2 t1_j29fzxk wrote

I always pre drill into stud if it’s any type of load bearing like this is. Just start from a small bit and increase size until youre approaching but still smaller diameter than the target screw. And you can use a regular (non power) screwdriver for the last few turns if needed. Good luck!

1

gburgwardt t1_j26y95q wrote

Did you drill the holes into the stud, then screw into it?

Did you check your drill's clutch setting?

2

huongdaoroma OP t1_j26ynsh wrote

Yeah, I pre-drilled into the stud, and my drill is on #15 setting (max)

1

gburgwardt t1_j26yvbi wrote

Did you drill as deep as the screw goes? My guess is not quite, since I've done the same thing.

Otherwise, get a manual screwdriver and finish those off, or use it as an excuse to get a better drill :)

3

huongdaoroma OP t1_j26z3eh wrote

Can I take the screws out and predrill a bit deeper in the same hole? I'd love a new drill, but saving for a new car rn - just got into a car crash a few weeks ago T.T

2

huongdaoroma OP t1_j271l4w wrote

Update: Drill bit broke inside one of the screw holes while pre-drilling after advice. Can it hold 55 lb with only 3 of 4 screws (middle screw not used...)?

1

Texasscot56 t1_j27lnkm wrote

Why did the drill bit break?

1

huongdaoroma OP t1_j27z11p wrote

Not too sure, but it broke off inside the wall and I can't get it out unless I dig

1

keestie t1_j27nq2m wrote

Is it for sure wood that you're screwing into? When you drilled the hole, did wood chips come out? If the drill bit broke going into wood, you need to practice drilling into wood without bending or stressing the bit.

BTW, a drill bit is a device made for drilling holes, and a driver bit is a device meant for putting screws in. Some people will call a driver bit a drill bit, but that's incorrect and confusing.

1

huongdaoroma OP t1_j27zenu wrote

I'm pretty sure I was drilling into wood behind my drywall; I checked with a studfinder. My house doesn't have any brick surfaces.

Yeah, it was my drill bit that broke. I was trying to predrill it before putting the screws in properly

1

keestie t1_j2a1fwv wrote

Ok so if you're gonna do this again, ideally you should practice drilling into a piece of scrap wood. If the drill bit broke going into wood, it means your control of the drill really needs practice and you put pressure on the bit in the wrong direction. Try to think about pushing the bit into the hole you're making in a *perfectly* straight line, making sure not to bend the bit, not to put any pressure on the bit that isn't directly along the axis of the hole.

There's a challenge to this, because your hand isn't directly behind the bit when you hold the drill, so if you push your hand directly towards the wall without compensating, you will break the bit. You can see how this happens if you take the drill, and without pulling the trigger, just push the drill against a surface with a limp wrist. You'll immediately see the drill change angle. That angle change breaks bits. You need to compensate for that tendency or you'll keep breaking bits.

This difficulty is very normal for someone who hasn't done a lot of drilling. Breaking small bits is a rite of passage tbh.

1

Warsaw14 t1_j278qba wrote

Get a dewalt impact driver and drill combo

1

KWPaul_Games t1_j27fa80 wrote

Taking a look, and to asnwer the "Will It Hold 55 Lbs" Question.

You have 2 screws in that picture, i cannot see the one behind, that are not flush atleast.

​

It Will Hold 55LBS, It Will Not Last Long tho. the constant moving will pull either the screws loose or more than likely break the heads off the screws.

​

You'll be putting major force on the far right screw, when it breaks, the left screw will be next, then the upper screw will pull out.

​

this is not a permanent solution by far, temporary at best, and honestly, just remove it, and re-do this properly 2" above the existing one. Best is to Pilot the holes first with a smaller drill bit (yes you broke one, don't wiggle the bit at all has to be straight in and straight out. any movement will break the pilot bit.

Then drill in the screws if you can, if not hand screw them in.

​

Also your pilot should be as long as your screw at minimum.

​

If you cannot do this, a handyman could prob do it in 15mins or so, check your local ad's see if you can find a cheap person to do it. Nothing would be worse than a bike falling onto someone/animal. Not that it'd be fatal or anything, but you'd still feel bad.

​

also as a note, order of weight, Top screw takes most weight, then next two down, then bottom screw takes least weight in this instance.

1

huongdaoroma OP t1_j27g1kn wrote

I was able to make the left, right, and bottom screws flush but the middle one one be there anymore. I'll get a ryobo drill + impact and more bits (any suggestion for the bits or would they be part of the set?)

In the meantime, the 3 screws would hold?

1

helplessdilphy t1_j27i779 wrote

3 screws should easily hold your bike. A single one probably could tbh if you don’t reef on it

1

fredsam25 t1_j27nf4z wrote

If you don't often use the drill, then it doesn't make sense to buy a premium drill to just get this one job done. You can instead invest in a cheap rachet set and use a hex bolt that you drive by hand.

1

Zesteesnuts t1_j2bb41f wrote

A plug in the wall drill will run it right into the stud.

1

huongdaoroma OP t1_j2bkx8a wrote

What plug are you talking about? Can you link me?

1

Zesteesnuts t1_j2c5187 wrote

Sorry, that wasn’t clear. I meant a drill that’s corded. One you plug into the wall. Not a cordless battery powered drill. The corded drills have more power / torque than battery powered drills.

1

Raul_McCai t1_j2bdybr wrote

Why not finish driving the screws the old fashioned way; the way billions of people did for centuries? With a hand held screwdriver?

​

Pro-tip rub wax on your screws for easier screwing

1

huongdaoroma OP t1_j2bkssx wrote

Drill bit broke off and stuck inside wall (no protrusion) - 3 of 4 screws are flush, 1 of 3 has hole blocked by broken drill bit.

1

Raul_McCai t1_j2bphk8 wrote

OK Pro tip

Pull it all out and start over up a few inches.

Get torqx drive screws often called "star drive"

I won't use anything else - ever - if I can get away with it and I usually can.

Get a torqx driver for your drill or just a manual T handle driver (don't buy junk - ever) Bondhus or Wiha brand are the best. Star Drive bits for a power drill come in different sizes unlike Slotted or Phillips drive screws. Star drive screws don't cam out, they drive more cleanly and easily. They are so much better than anything else.

You can get torqx drive bits and screws at the BORG or any hardware store or online everywhere.

1

huongdaoroma OP t1_j2br8xr wrote

So can I use a Wiha torx set with a Ryobi impact?

1

Raul_McCai t1_j2dosap wrote

any brand of bits will g fit any brand of drill/driver. The hexagonal bodies are standardized.

But when I referenced the two brand names I was referring to manual hand held drivers

For example, in the amazon page ( infra) there are any number of driver bits made by wiha, and you san see that there are manual handles plus they will fit any hex drive impact drill/driver doesn't matter if it's Dewalt, Riobi, or Milwaukee they are all the same.

https://www.amazon.com/wiha-driver-bits/s?k=wiha+driver+bits

1

Redbillywaza t1_j2bg86e wrote

Use a star tip on top of all other comments.

1