Academic_Nectarine94
Academic_Nectarine94 t1_jcx3nxq wrote
Just get a multi tool and cut off the drywall above the tile. Then pull it off the wall. At least then you have a pre determined line to fix. The way it is now, you'll have to do that anyway, but without any guide, and with way more damage to surrounding areas, likely.
Academic_Nectarine94 t1_j2aima4 wrote
Reply to comment by Pussycat-Papa in Weak drill > Non-flush screws > Load?? by huongdaoroma
True, but you have to learn all of it. Drills are nice if you have a lot of the same thing to screw down. And anything that comes with a product I buy almost always goes in the trash so I forgot about that aspect LOL
Academic_Nectarine94 t1_j28pub0 wrote
Reply to comment by Pussycat-Papa in Weak drill > Non-flush screws > Load?? by huongdaoroma
Yeah, now that I'm thinking, I remember they are LOL. Their bit holders are supposed to be good, though, so you could try them.
Academic_Nectarine94 t1_j27kmav wrote
Reply to comment by huongdaoroma in Weak drill > Non-flush screws > Load?? by huongdaoroma
Welcome. Hopefully your walmart thing is still in its return policy, but even I'd it's not, you could ask a manager for a refund under warranty (do so nicely, catching flies with honey and all that.) Even a cheapo drill like that should be able to drive a screw into a stud.
Academic_Nectarine94 t1_j27cwbk wrote
I think the lesson to ne learned here is to NEVER buy another tool at Walmart that is a Walmart brand, or at all.
Ryobi is great for the money, and you can get bits and things from them, Dewalt, Milwaukee, or makita easily. Bit more money, but you wouldn't have any of the issues you did today.
Also, get an impact driver. They have more torque, don't strip out screws, and are all around better at screw related tasks than drills. Drills are best for drilling holes, but if you're really tight on money CAN be used for screws. They just need a lot more care to work with.
Edit: solution to your problem: get a ryobi drill, a good bit the size you need, and a pack of screws (preferably 2.5" Spax or GRK). Move the mounting point up or down 4" from where you wanted it, and redo it. Patch the place this disaster happened with drywall mud (can get some nice drywall patch from 3M. Fast drying, and is color coded so you know that it is dried.)
Academic_Nectarine94 t1_jed6be1 wrote
Reply to How to stop cold air from coming in through door frame? by jap5531
Put a heater on the cold side of the door.