If the stone is porous, you can use concrete stain over the stone.

Most silicone isn't paintable, so you wouldn't want to use it in areas that would get painted at any point. If you're looking at exterior products, polyurethane caulk is a good option as well.

If you're mounting above an outlet, then the wires could run along the edge of a stud. In that case, if you hit the electrical, you did a bad job of mounting the TV mount.

Or, they will drill holes through the middle of studs to feed the electrical horizontally. Typically from outlet to outlet (no worries there since you aren't mounting the TV that low). Or from switch to outlet (on the same wall, it would typically go down to outlet level and then horizontal).

So, if you can determine the center of a stud and drill a hole in the center, it's not likely that you're going to hit electrical. Now, there's a chance that a crazy person did something other than stated above (I've experienced it) and hopefully they put a metal plate on the stud so that you can't accidentally drill into it.

I would use joint compound over spackle, but tape isn't necessary.

My version is usually joint compound, let dry. Sand anything protruding. Joint compound again, trowel very smooth. Use high grit sandpaper.

Then after I prime, I notice more issues, so another coat of joint compound, high grit sanding. Prime again. Ready to paint.

Yes, that one or the other one that was suggested would work.

Home Depot sells a few varieties for either floating between joists or butted against a joist. Also make sure you get a retrofit box if you don't have access to replace it from above.

The shims will stay in place. But typically cabinets are also attached to the wall, preventing them from moving and/or tipping over

The TV mount that I just installed on a brick wall required 3/8" holes for the anchors.

You could also use a regular drill. It's just not as effective.

No, hammer drills are different. If you have a harbor freight, their cheapest one is about $35. You'll probably need additional masonry bits as well.

When using the masonry bit, dip the tip in water every 1-2 minutes, it will keep the bit from getting too hot and wearing out as fast.

Right hand outswing. Inswing would go into the closet

I've seen videos online and from Pinterest that show painting fabric. You'd need to use fabric specific paint, not just ordinary spray paint. I don't know how long an option like this would work.

I would attempt to make a new cover over trying to paint fabric.

Sanding you can do anytime and anywhere you don't mind a mess.

I've put a space heater in my garage to work on things in the winter, but for stain/paint to dry that would require longer amounts of time than I'd be comfortable with. I've also done staining in my basement, but I don't have much ventilation, so I try to limit that.

I'm doing a patch of carpet squares in my basement office. Decided to start with duct tape to connect them since I had it on hand. I have to go pick up more squares, but so far they are staying together and not sliding on the concrete.

Varathane and Minwax are 2 common brands in the US.

Polyurethane. Look for one designed for floors, it will last longer.

Oil based will develop a golden tone. Water based will keep the same color.

I prefer satin poly, but that's a personal choice.

In the 2nd pic, piece 3 is what you need to install.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Royal-Mouldings-2149-7-16-in-x-2-in-x-84-in-PVC-Sandstone-Garage-Door-Stop-Moulding-0214907026/202089951

The trim/weatherstrip on the outside is the best way to go.

It really depends on how it was wired before. But if the light is staying on, you have a hot connected to the fixture.

So how it works: hot is connected to the switch, then another wire connects from the switch to the fixture. When you flip the switch, the hot continues through the switch, to the fixture=on. When you turn the switch off, the current stops at the switch. The blacks in the box could be another circuit.

Typically here, a red is used to connect the switch to a light fixture and black is always hot. But wiring in Chicago is much different than other places.

In the future, always take a pic before unhooking any wires. Even if you can't figure out what to do, it helps others help you.

For a switched fixture, you typically don't install multiple black/other color to the black of the fixture. One (black/color) wire should go from switch to fixture. Then the white would tie into the existing white.

Ideally, you'd use a multimeter. Flip the switch off and see what's hot and what's not. Then flip the switch on and the one that goes from 0 to having a current is the one that you connect to the fixture.

Are the other loose words in the box grounds?

Makes sense. Oil prices are high, so plastic prices are high.

Are you planning on buying or cutting actual 1x1? Personally I would do a standard 2x2, which is only 1.5x1.5. 1/2" dado, leaving 1/2" in the center stiles.