UpgrayeddSmurphy

UpgrayeddSmurphy t1_j9pk4x1 wrote

That looks like either a gloss, or clear topcoat of polly, probably sprayed onto veneer or MDF. But super small, so easy to hide. You might try sanding that more flat, primer, then a wood bondo/filler. You don't have to go nuts tho, just give the primer something to grab and make the edge easier to bond and bury, sand too much and you can blow thru the veneer.

I would lay it flat on a bench or horses, for work, use a rattle can primer, shook xtr well, test the spray on scrap, and if it spits, use a foam roller to lay it flat. Filler and sand the filler flush n smooth, primer again, then paint. Less is always more. Both filler, and paint.

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UpgrayeddSmurphy t1_j9pd0uu wrote

It sounds like you're trying to cover an oil base or maybe polyurethane with an acrylic paint? How was the cabinet finished prior?

Just a guess without a pic, but, yes. More sanding, then primer, then paint. Especially if you're covering poly. It can only save headache later to primer now, regardless if the paint can claims it has primer in it. A good primer is going to penetrate better, and will help tannins bleeding through, discoloring the finish. Ever try to paint an old chest white, only to have funny yellow spots bleed thru later? Prolly old oak, and those are tannins bleeding. Primer will help this immensely.

Sanding can be optional tho. Sometimes stuff is super intricate, and sanding can damage design or inlays. You can use a cabinet deglosser for these spots. Then primer.

Prep is always key in good paint adhesion and coverage. Take the time to do it right. Wipe it down with some mineral spirits after sanding to help pick up any loose stuff left, follow the recommended ventilation guidelines for whatever you're using, and wear your PPE.

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UpgrayeddSmurphy t1_j7ba9je wrote

Personal taste, musical interests, then practice. If you're not feeling it, you can always try something else. The great thing about music: "when it hits you, you feel no pain.."

It's all relative to your own vibe tho. I picked up a guitar, and never put it down. But, knowing what I do now, I wish I had taken piano first, (still plan to, and drums, just wish I had sooner is all).

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UpgrayeddSmurphy t1_j5kz5ca wrote

Typically, this isn't an edge that would necessarily need caulking. What should've been done is bring the surface tile flush to the face of (or just proud) the wall tile, so the grout edge is on the flat of the wall, instead of the corner of the transition.

Secondly, an 1/8th on an inch is minimum for a grout edge to bind well, and this looks too thin, which is likely what's giving you problems.

You should remove as much of the grout that's in there, maybe use an angle grinder with a diamond wheel, or dremmel to help widen the gap just a scotche.

Make it clean as possible, and wipe it down with something like mineral spirits. Tape the two outside edges and then caulk it with a good shower n tile caulk (dap 3.0 I like), making sure to "push" it in deep.

The alcohol will help dry it out before the caulking, cuz any water left in there is just going to fail your silicone. Also: it says 2 or 3 hour "shower ready", but I always recommend letting it cure overnight before you get it too wet.

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UpgrayeddSmurphy t1_j4lff5c wrote

I've had the same pair of JBL buds for like 4 years now. I've tried newer models and the new galaxy ones, and always go back to the older JBLs. I just bought another pair of over ears for my switch that are super comfy and sound reducing for like 30 on sale from amazon, too. I think JBL makes the best of what I have tried, and they are usually decently priced.

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