Oh, right. The concrete footers need to be below frostline of course. The posts need to be above ground though. Posts can't be in the concrete.

All things considered it's much cheaper to do it posts above ground vs in-ground. Less wood.

But yes! Definitely check your local building codes 😁

Correct. Never put a switch AFTER the device it's powering. Scary stuff.

We don't allow posts below ground, period (northern climate). Code prohibits it for decking. Needs to be tied in above ground to concrete footers.

Most deck posts are 6x6 now, right?

Even if sections fail, they'll be very easy to remove. Once you get part of it out. The hole will have voids and pieces will just fall in.

Landscape contractor here. They're super easy to remove with a farm jack. All you need is some transport chain and a farm jack (Harbor Freight). You can pop a post out that's been mounted in concrete in about 2 minutes.

Take the farm jack, put it on a smooth surface, then wrap the chain around the post a few times and around the jack. When you lift the jack up, the chain will tighten and bite into the post. It'll rip it out of the ground with the concrete.

I did this recently to about 20 posts with the links, and then replaced it with a new fence with aluminum 4x4s and wooden slants. Worked perfectly. Removing the old fence was actually the fastest part of the process.

I would just get him to wear a sleep cap. Although that's not ideal, and can be kind of annoying for some people. If that doesn't work, honestly, I would just suck it up, it's not that big a deal.

One commenter suggested silk pillowcases? Might be the only other option?

The actual lithium grease is the consistency of a soft butter. It's very... greasy, for lack of a better word. I doubt it would dry out. That's the stuff you want for lubricating things properly. The spray stuff is a stopgap or for lubricating really hard to reach areas, in my experience.

Most automotive greases for joints etc. are a lithium base if I'm not mistaken.

Spray or paste? Very different stuff. The spray is already pretty dry when it comes out.

It's cheap insurance. It protects the torque converter and...everything...in the transmission. Definitely recommend it.

There are a lot of different opinions on oil brands , some people say pretty much all synthetic is the same; personally, I've seen some tests with Amsoil's Signature Series ATF that won me over. They claim twice the resistance to heat breakdown vs other leading synthetics, "reserve protection" vs heat. And have ASTM testing to back it up. Basically you can run severe service at regular intervals. Third party testing and my own experience seem to line up, it's very very good fluid.

Regardless of fluid you use, make sure it's the right spec for your vehicle make, and change it at the appropriate interval, and you'll enjoy a VERY long transmission life (unless there are design flaws, like Dodge Grand Caravan for a few years, or the Ford Focus with the disaster of an automatic clutch).

Thought this was worth a separate reply; you also don't necessarily need to bring the washer inside, as long as you make sure there's no residual water in the pump. So you would disconnect the water supply, and then run the pump until nothing else is coming out. It should be fine to store in the cold as long as you do that. At least, that's what I've done when I keep it in the garage. If you're concerned, I would just look that up quickly to see if it's fine to store in. Really cool temperatures as long as you drain the pump.

I wash my plow truck at a coin op. I usually pay about $8 Canadian for about 9 minutes with a sprayer, I wash off the truck, plow, salter, and then thoroughly go over the underbody. That's usually enough time to use a spray soap and a rinse, but really you only need to rinse.

If you're using it for plowing, that cost, every storm is nothing compared to the amount of money you'll save on the frame and body over time. Water isn't what causes the rust, the salt is what really accelerates it from the road. Whatever is used to melt ice. You need to get that off immediately, before it has time to set in. Especially if you have temperatures going above zero. If it stays really cold, it's not as big of a deal, but as soon as you hit the temperature where salt can work on ice, it's going to be working on your frame. The hotter it gets the worse it gets.

If you're just using it for your house and tooling around town during a storm, it's not as big of a deal, but I would still recommend rinsing it off whenever you can.

Not necessarily. Before manufacturers started calling the fluid "for life" (one of the only OEM recommendations I've seen that's actually plain stupid, the fluids haven't turned magic in the last 20 years), usually there's a standard service and severe service interval for fluid changes. Usually standard is around 60,000mi (100,000km), and severe service is half this.

The misconception that arises is that severe service isn't just for towing. It includes towing, heavy loads, but also driving often in hills and in heavy traffic. Stop and go is severe service. So many commuters should be changing their fluids on a severe service interval, which is likely around 30,000, mi or 50,000 km. That's the interval I would go with if the car stated lifetime changes and didn't actually have a fluid interval.

Wash the underbodies thoroughly after every storm (EVERY storm) and change transmission fluid every single season. Change differential fluid as well. Undercoat with rust prevention each season.

The killer for transmissions is heat, because transmission fluid is killed by heat. Causes the breakdown to accelerate, which changes the hydraulic properties of the fluid. When the hydraulic properties change, you end up with a lot of problems.

Snow plowing creates a stupid amount of heat.

Change your fluids, keep on top of suspension work, and don't do stupid stuff with your truck. I'm a firm believer it'll still last a long time.

This is not correct in Toronto. In Toronto, the ESA does not do meters, they subcontract to contractors or the homeowner. Everywhere else this is correct.

This is not correct in Toronto. In Toronto, the utility does not do meters, they subcontract to contractors or the homeowner. Everywhere else this is correct.

I'm telling you that they're incredible performers for what they are. That's true. The amount of performance they get for the power draw is very, very good. There's been little competition on release. Definitely nothing remotely close in an APU. It's a very wide chip that gets a very high IPC because it has so much die allocated to things that give it more efficiency.

Most people who praise it, though, seem to think you could put that chip into a much cheaper device that's non Apple and it'd still be affordable, and that they've developed some magic sauce that makes it Apple-tax worthy. It's NOT that. It's a very expensive to make, high end chip. So it goes into very expensive products that happen to have the "Apple tax".

I don't own a single Apple product and I never will , at this point. But you can't deny the facts, M1/2 are great designs. They're just ludicrously expensive and will never see the light of day in a product that isn't thousands of dollars. Not the full die, at least.

They also aren't meant to compete with AMD and Intel and the majority of cases. They never will be able to.

So far, so good. They've been around for a while now, and the LTT has a pretty massive investment in them.

They are that good. The M1/2 are no joke. But they're not magic sauce, they're incredibly expensive to make because they are massive dies on the most expensive node you can get, which gets exponentially more expensive the larger you go.

Apple didn't convince anyone of anything. The only reason that the M series chips are good is because they are ludicrously expensive to produce, and a massive die. It's not because they broke some boundary.

The M1 Max is the size of an AMD 5950X, and a 30 series GPU PUT TOGETHER. It's not some Apple magic sauce. It is on the most advanced node you can get manufacturing wise, it is incredibly large, which means it is ludicrously expensive to make. The only reason it works is because it's in an Apple device that is integrated top to bottom. It would never work for an off-the-shelf component. And it would also never work in a cheap device.

Don't get me wrong, it's a very well performing, very efficient chip. But it's that way because it's incredibly expensive to make, more so than any dedicated desktop CPU on the market right now, with the most advanced manufacturing.

To top it all off, there's no reason that a chip like this could not be socketed. It could easily be designed that way. If they wanted to, which they obviously do not.

What is buy it for life, then? Only things that never break? Repairability is a big factor, most things that are by it for life require maintenance. Look at boots, any high quality boot in this sub will require regular maintenance, resoling, all sorts of things in order to keep it buy it for life item.

It's not them, it's you who doesn't understand the conversation.

The conversation isn't talking about performance. It's talking about how the frames and boards aren't designed to be future proof.

For example, Intel could have designed a CPU interface that had a thousand unused pins. Buses that have massive extra unused width. Then these interfaces would last much longer, and it does not really increase cost of manufacture.

There's no need to constantly be replacing and upgrading interfaces. Interfaces themselves aren't complex to manufacture. They're nothing relative to the chips themselves. The only real reason is planned obsolescence. They could easily be designed to last multiple times longer than they do, and they just don't.

It's the same thing with soldered components. Most components don't need to be soldered, and they don't benefit from it, unless you're in a hypermobile device. The only benefit is to the manufacturer.

Meh, I don't really care. Anyone could still DIY this and it's a great guide, with easily available parts. Guy is obviously knowledgeable and didn't try to sell his product. Why are you trying to ruin a good thing?

Especially for cheap crap.

Microplastics would not be a big deal at all if we didn't turn plastic into a one time use product that fills the streets with untold millions of tons of garbage littered across the surface of the globe.

There's nothing wrong with plastic itself. It's the blatant and disgusting misuse of it that's the problem.