It's an error. It's why I do not like to give out card and agree to any billing (because for sure they had you sign document saying they can bill your card for anything outstanding).

What you should have done back then was 1) notify of error 2) give reasonable 7-10 days for resolution 3) If not resolved dispute with bank.

Main thing to look for is balance transfer fees. I haven't seen any with no fee since late 2019 or early 2020. These days it's either 3% or 5%.

Obviously you want the ones offering the lower 3% fee.

I agree but don't go too crazy with your savings either when you have debt charging 25% interest. It was more to counter the people who are inevitably going to post extreme suggestions to start eating only rice and beans, drain your savings to $0, sell your car, cancel your Netfix, etc.

I think you should pay off both of the small balance accounts in full within the next 2 weeks.

Amazon is unique the way they work because they sell so much stuff and anyone can go and list something for sale.

Labeled as "FSA Eligible" is really just within the vendor's internal system. If you tried to buy that item with FSA debit card it would not go through. For reimbursement it doesn't matter

All that matters is if the item really is FSA. Your FSA is going to check if the item is eligible per the IRS rules, they are not going to check if the seller marked the item as FSA or not. In fact the seller could make an error and your claim would be denied because the item does not qualify as FSA item.

For example I bought a BMW first aid kit for my car from a car parts store and then submitted reimbursement from my FSA without any problem.

Unless it's included on their W2 or 1099 I would treat it as a gift.

Also when you say "gave us" a check if that is accurate and you are not an employee it further enforces this is a gift and not wages/bonus.

Delete post, replace "Tesla" with "electric vehicle" and post it again.

Or give the moderators an hour or three to review and they'll probably approve it.

For sure I would pay off CSP 800 & Amex 780 ASAP.

CFU @ 0% no rush to pay back. Is that 0% on purchases? What you can do is put expenses on that one, pay minimum, and then put all yoru cash to BOFA 2800 account.

That way your debt balance is shifted from 25% interest rate to 0%.

Keep some emergency savings, do not drain.

Open account with Fidelity and setup an automatic investment into FZROX which is is their total stock market index fund.

Vanguard is no good for this due to the high minimum initial investment on most funds.

I don't think saving for an emergency fund or contributing to a 401k is a dumb idea.

If your focus is emergency fund you can contribute less to your 401k. My idea is you setup the plan and contributions and you can adjust the amount later as a smaller undertaking than having to get setup first.

Setup 401k with new employer and setup a contribution, and then roll over the old 401k.

Even the money market fund in your brokerage is paying something like 3-4% yield these days. You could put it in there without investing in stocks or bonds.

Chase seems to always offer $200 bonus for spending $500 in the first 90 days on a few of their $0 annual fee cards and I think that should be your baseline.

Think of it as 1% cash back, you can get that any day any where so it's not really a great deal. Anything giving you less without another valuable benefit is not worth your time.

But don't cancel credit cards! You want to open several good accounts and keep them open in the long run to build credit. The Chase Freedom Flex for e.g. is pretty good, you get a few months out of the year you can earn 5% cash back on gas, groceries, paypal (so basically 80% of online shopping), etc.

What does good year give you? 1% rewards towards your next purchase of good year tires? But I like Michelin, they make the best summer tires.

I rather not have to track it. I rather sell something at a gain and buy back right away.

I can feel the pain from dropping it on my foot through the screen.

I would recommend a non-contact voltage tester as well as a good understanding of the limitations of these devices.

Telling someone who can't figure out the disconnected wire feeds the lights that are no longer power on to get a multi meter and start proving on live circuits doesn't seem like a great idea.

Most car dealers are legitimate business, they aren't out to scam you.

McDonalds has chicken nuggets, burger king has chicken tenders.

Visa has a 16 digit number + 3 digit code (on the back), Amex has a 15 digit number with 4 digit code (on the front)

Ask Chase for the tracking info provided.

You're not getting far with taking Chase to court, they did their job. They're a bank, not insurance against scams.

Medical billing is a mess. Ask me how I found out a medical claim can be so incorrect insurance can deny it and not tell you about it.

It usually boils down to if the medical provider is in or out of network with your insurance.

In network provider = usually has a contract with insurance that says they can't bill you for anything insurance didn't approve. File a complaint with your insurance.

Out of network provider = you're SOL, they can charge what they want.

IRS requires the W9 and 1099 reporting for any payments totalling $600 or more during the year.

They could send one for less, but unless their accountant is trying really hard to milk them for every last billable minute most businesses won't report transactions that aren't required to be reported.

Sure it's about $5 but you also lost your grace period for carrying a balance.

Yes, otherwise you'll get charged interest for not paying in full.

Many brokers charge a fee to buy non-preferred funds.

Just buy the funds with no fee, there is nothing special about a Vanguard target date fund or even total market index fund compared to Schwab, Fidelity, iShares, etc.

They were probably entering the 3 digit code on the back of the card.

If you were a criminal with a cloned card it would not match what is stored on the card's chip or magnetic strip.

The drop is credit scores is mainly from the age of newest account, so it doesn't matter if you open 1 new account or 5 -- the impact will be about the same.

If anything spreading out the new accounts will keep your credit scores lower for a longer period of time.