https://publicworks.baltimorecity.gov/job-openings

Click on the other jobs link.

Apply away. Dpw has tons of openings.

Eh. Agencies I've worked for or with at the city have all been about 15-30% under staffed/unfilled positions. So budget actuals are going to run short. Outside of that, having less staff means less workers to do those tasks. Also costs of operating have increase exponentially. Materials alone have soared budgets for projects. So repairing vehicles like trash/recycling is going to fall behind due to costs and availability of materials and labor.

Recruitment of staff is difficult as well considering how low the pay is around here. And once hired there is little to no raise or pay increase to expect. Management received 2% last year and will coming this July get another 2%. Meanwhile insurance and other benefit costs went up 12%.

Delivery fees have increased multiple times over the last year. Supply costs have increased marginally.

Bge sucks but they are regulated rates. Public service commission has done nothing but give hundreds of millions in funds to utility companies and not controlled rate increases sufficiently.

If you can't make home modifications you are limited in how you can use less. But more insulation, sealing windows, caulking gaps, wearing more clothes and trapping heat/keeping cold out is what you need to do. Also see if your air filters are clean so your HVAC runs optimally. Also keep thermostat low/around 65.

Besides that, if you qualify you can apply for OHEP benefits (energy assistance). That would help pay towards costs, but you have to earn under the income limit for the 30 day application period you apply. If you are over the income limit you can apply for for the Maryland fuel fund. They have less strict income guidelines.

This or a similar company:. https://www.lifestorage.com/storage-units/vehicle-storage/

Offers in unit or within grounds storage of vehicle. Yards are locked and gated. Monitored and insured.

You can either ask if they have additional vehicle storage insurance or ask your own car insurance company to change your policy to a Storage only policy (meaning no driving/mileage, only otherwise insuring it for damages/loss. It's usually pretty inexpensive compared to a total loss.

A few miles into the county.

$150 a month for my wife and I for two cars with liability $300k coverage level and a $1 mill umbrella policy. Cincinnati insurance through a broker agency called Consolidated insurance, Owings mills.

Homeowners is a little expensive, but I like the way the way they write their agreements and the coverage options are extensive.

You invest it in what you think will get returns, but based on evidence. Look at the data given to you about your options.

Or look for something called a target date fund and pick that. It will focus investments for you based on your target date for retirement (earlier dates being less risky investments farther away dates being more risky). All investments have risks. The 457b plan is special because it allows you to withdrawal without penalty after you leave employment, rather than after age 59 1/2, like 401ks and other retirement plans. So essentially it could be your early retirement fund.

You need insulation. Fill up the attic.

Then start caulking any crack on your exterior walls. If you have old windows, the seals are probably bad, so fix that. Cheap fix is to use window sheeting (plastic sheet that you put over windows and use a hair dryer to seal).

If you have a unfinished/open basement, your flooring could be letting that cool air in, so insulate. Pretty much seal any possible air gap on the exterior.

Then clean your air filters if you have HVAC. If it's just radiators, make sure they are working properly. Wear blankets and extra layers.
Ask Bge to come do an energy audit including finding out if you have a gas leak or electricity being used somewhere it shouldnt (including theft by neighbors).

Bge raised rates quite a bit this year for delivery, not supply. So yes it's expensive. If you are lower income or have periods of the year where you are lower income for a 30 day period, apply for energy assistance (OHEP). If you qualify Maryland has heating and electric grants to help pay bills. The average benefit is $500 per year. But there are many grants.

Links to OHEP: https://dhs.maryland.gov/office-of-home-energy-programs/

Application: https://mydhrbenefits.dhr.state.md.us/

Provide all documentation needed all at once with the application, Not separately. This will ensure the case is processed quickly and items not scattered.

If you have back water or sewer bills, also look at grants for that (can apply on same above page).

If you need to make major home repairs go here for grant funding: https://dhcd.maryland.gov/Residents/Pages/SpecialLoans.aspx

https://dhcd.maryland.gov/Residents/Pages/WholeHome.aspx

https://dhcd.baltimorecity.gov/hho/rehabilitation-and-repairs

https://marylandhaf.com/

https://dhcd.maryland.gov/Residents/Pages/HomeownerAssistanceFund.aspx

The pension plan is like buying membership each year with that 8%. Until you have the minimum years needed, the money is just held in an interest bearing account. If you leave before you meet the minimum years you can request it back. When you reach the minimum or when you max it and retire from the government you will receive a monthly payment based on a calculation. This calculation varies based on your pension plan.

The 401a plan is where the money you must contribute and the money they give you sits and can be invested. If you leave before you reach vesting, the amount your employer has contributed can be reduced and taken back, the amount you pay in will always be yours.

Usually with government jobs you will also be offered a 457b or 401k type plan. If it's a 457b plan, you can contribute up to $22500 each year pre tax(traditional) or post tax (Roth). Ask your HR about this.

Of course you always have access to a Roth IRA up to 6k per year separately of your employer options. You would not be eligible for traditional IRA tax deductions since you are offered an employer plan.

So you could do the minimum of 401a contribution, pension plan, employer contribution, 457b or 401k, and Roth IRA. Whether all or less is what you need in retirement is up to you.

Your plan options should be spelled out in your handbook as far as if you have the 457b and/or 401k option.

Nope that's the gists. keep receipts so you can reimburse anytime in the future.

Fidelity. But make sure you have an actual HSA eligible/ qualifying HDHP plan. It will have zero first dollar coverage (nothing paid by insurance before the deductible) among other criteria.

Fidelity is the cheapest option with good investment options.

Homeserve is subsidized by the city and if you are eligible for it, yes you should get it immediately.

Turn on your utility sink a little and see if anything comes out. Might be your waterline.

Costs and time and effort to rehabilitate homes that are not wanted or needed.

Old pipes and foundations have to be redone and that's immensely expensive. Not to mention the demolition.

What can be done?

Your insurance company can withhold future payments made for any of their beneficiaries to quest, to balance everything out and then issue you a direct reimbursement.

I would go that route if you have better communication with your insurance.

You don't have a tax liability with the feds. Just direct deposit money to an account for the amount of taxes you were paying if you can't budget elsewhere.

You have a very long time to work.

Focus on improving your career prospects and therefore your income.

I was 30 and making $40k and barely had any retirement savings. I Got my masters, left my field of social work and started making 70k and now 90k by age 38.

Now I max my wife and i's retirement accounts each year and if we keep up the efforts we are making (living cheap and saving a lot) we will retire at age 50.

Yes, you can buy all sorts of over the counter things along with paying for medical services. With prescriptions you can even buy exercise equipment with the pretax funds.

Some plans have high copayments where a low deductible like $2000 and then 20% after may be cheaper.

I see an acupuncturist 24 times a year and 6 other specialists along with my primary, lab work, medications. I would hit $2000 very quickly.

Once I do, I then pay only the 20%, which is probably less than $45.

Plus you can contribute to an HSA and save significantly for several years and then switch to a better plan and have that money to use whenever.

Definitely not. Completely depends on the employer

Time to look for a better job. Benefits should be considered when finding one.

Are you paying for just yourself or a family for insurance?

You need insurance.

Return whatever you bought!

Seriously though, how have you lived so far out of your means for so long to have wracked that up?

List your monthly ongoing costs, total debt broken down per interest and card/loan.

Then start cutting anything you can. Then find a roommate and split bills as much as you can or move in with someone. Pay all your money towards the highest interest loan/card first and then once paid off, go to the next. Live very cheaply and get some other secondary income as much as possible. If you can, try borrowing from a family member and pay them back just as aggressively.
Bankruptcy is a consideration but without knowing your assets it's kind of hard to tell.

Where is your gross income going to besides FICA and fed and state taxes?

Rt. 26 would like to have a word.

I've had Delaware easy pass for about 20 years now. It has been the easiest to use with 0 billing issues since day one. Transponders work just fine as well.